Passive Protection

Nuts are best in constrictions, small or flared cracks, and parallel-sided placements where cams can slip, while hexes excel in irregular, non-parallel cracks and offwidths. Tricams work well in horizontal cracks and pockets and can act passively or with an active camming action without springs.

Size ranges are often numbered 1–13 or color-coded, so choose a sequence that covers micro to large widths; micro nuts can fit 1–2mm constrictions while large hexes handle openings up to about 10cm. Carrying a spread of sizes—including an offset brass nut for imperfect cracks—helps you cover varied terrain without guessing.

Most pieces are made from chromoly steel, aluminum, or brass offsets, and wire cables attach the wedges to the loop for secure placement. With no moving parts and design features like cutouts for better rock contact, they’re low-maintenance and built for long service life.

Nuts and hexes commonly carry strength ratings from about 5–14 kN, while tricams rate roughly 4–9 kN passively, and many units meet UIAA and CE certifications. Their holding power typically increases under dynamic fall forces as the piece jams deeper into the crack.

Focus on compact, lightweight pieces in the 20–100 g range that cover a variety of crack sizes; models like Black Diamond Stoppers provide precise tapers and cutouts for micro placements, and DMM Wallnuts offer useful offset sizes. If you expect horizontals and pockets, add a CAMP Tri-Cam for dual passive-active capability and rack versatility.