Edelrid Jul 2 Belay Device

I agree with the previous reviewer completely. This device is really easy to use and very trustworthy. It will lock right and not budge until you force the rope through. Fantastic piece of gear that's affordable. Get it!

If you don't need a 2-slot belay device, this is really the best. The simplicity and reliability of a tube device, but with an actual mechanical failsafe - if you let go, it stops the rope! I'm surprised climbing gyms haven't started to require this instead of standard tube devices. It is about the same weight as a BD ATC Guide. I am an absolute convert.

I've used the jul 2 as my primary device while cragging and gym climbing since July, around 200 pitches outdoors. Device has been paired with the Edelrid Strike carabiner, it works best with this carabiner.

For the fat to mid size ropes most people tend to crag/gym climb with of 9.6-10.3 it works great. Your average gym climber who doesn't want to drop the coin on a grigri, but would like some brake assistance will really like this device. Advantages over mega jul:

* Pays out slack to a leader MUCH smoother. While sport climbing when a leader needs to go for a high clip fast I can pay out two arm lengths of slack very fast, never worry about shorting them again (happened with mega jul even after months of use).

* Easier to use in normal "tube device" style. The mega jul locked too easily, I found myself lead belaying with my thumb pulling up on the wire almost constantly. It's much easier to keep a firm hand on the brake strand and pay out just like using an ATC.

* Stainless runs down around the thumb cable. This makes it nicer for lowering your climber and paying out slack quickly. On the mega jul you could have the rope drag on the crease of your thumb, not chance of that with this.

* Smoother lowering, it's easier to hit the leverage "sweet spot" than with a mega jul.

* Slight bit of slip before lock up. Less than with a regular tube device, not ass aggressive as a grigri. For trad I think this is an advantage to possibly reduce peak force on your placement. For sport where that doesn't matter I still prefer the hard lockup of a grigri, it's easier to time my jump for a soft catch.

No product is without flaws. The downside to the nice feed of the jul 2 is that it provides less assistance on thinner ropes. There is a chart that comes with the device for recommended climber weight to rope diameter. In general I would not use this device for skinny single

Assisted braking devices have come a long way. Some included mechanical assisted braking. This simply uses design to perform the same assisted braking.

Great for gym climbing!