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Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

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    • Gray, #00
      sale $44.96
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      sale $48.71
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    • Purple, #0
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    4.5523

    23 Reviews

    Details

    Lives up to its name.

    New to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cam takes the weight off alpinists and trad climbers. These cams are 40% lighter than most cams, and their lobes use stops for extra security in cracks. The lobes also have Range Finders with green-to-red dots along the sides that assist your placements. Color-coded by size, the Ultralight Master Cam is easy to find on your rack so you can plug and send. Metolius made it easy for you to replace the Monster Sling after a few seasons.

    • 40% lighter than conventional cams
    • CNC machined cam lobes with stops
    • Range Finder
    • Color-coded trigger, thumb, and webbing
    • Monster Sling
    • Item #MET001X

    Tech Specs

    Placement Range
    [00] 0.34 - 0.47 in, [0] 0.39 - 0.59 in, [1] 0.49 - 0.71 in, [2] 0.62 - 0.89 in, [3] 0.74 - 1.07 in, [4] 0.93 - 1.32 in, [5] 1.01 - 1.56 in, [6] 1.28 - 1.89 in, [7] 1.57 - 2.26 in, [8] 1.91 - 2.81 in
    Strength
    [00, 0] 5 kN, [1] 8 kN, [2-8] 10 kN
    Cam Lobes
    4
    Axle
    single
    Stem
    single
    Includes
    Monster Sling webbing
    Claimed Weight
    [00] 1.6 oz, [0] 1.6 oz, [1] 1.8 oz, [2] 1.9 oz, [3] 2.3 oz, [4] 2.6 oz, [5] 3 oz, [6] 3.3 oz, [7] 3.9 oz, [8] 4.5 oz
    Recommended Use
    climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Long Live the Black Metolious!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I was introduced to this cam on my first trip to Indian creek. I never really thought about needing that one specific cam.. but alas, there are many climbs where I feel that this cam fits just perfectly where you need it. It has a super quick action and it feels confidence inspiring!

    Confidence Inspiring

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I recently picked these cams up to fill out my rack for climbing in and around the Salt Lake Valley. So far I am loving having these cams on my rack. I have used them on several other occasions when climbing with my friends gear but now that I have them I'm not sure I could live without them. I climb with the 00-4 and find that compared to my X4's I always get a better more confidence inspiring placement that grabs the rock better than the X4's otherwise would have. I also like the slightly stiffer stem for vertical crack placements. But I do tend to prefer my X4's for horizontals since the stem has a wider range of motion.

    I have also heard a lot of people having difficulty placing these guys without the thumb loop but so far I haven't really noticed much of a difference. I still find myself going through the same motion I otherwise would have with a X4, C4, Friend or Dragon. The dot range on the cam is also really helpful for those who cannot readily identify a good placement and is a good quick reminder you are doing things right for the experienced. Pair these guys with the FS Mini carabiners and you have a UL set up that rivals anything else out on the market. (Now I just want to try out the Super Cams!)

    Confidence Inspiring

    Fantastic piece of engineering

      Bought a full Metolius rack of 00-4 in power cams and 5-8 in master cams. Before buying my rack I had only had a couple initial leads to get my bearings with placing gear. These cams have been growing with me at every stage since then, in fact, I can't really imagine a better first rack value for what you get. If you look at the cam range and the weight that accompanies them you're really getting an amazingly light set of cams compared to any competitor and at the same time at a better value. Another benefit for beginners (and occasionally intermediate climbers) are the placement rangefinders on the side of the cam. When you want assurance that you're not undercamming you can quite literally see it when you get it in the green or yellow. People can gripe all they want about the lack of a thumb loop, the dynema sling if you grab it properly does the exact same thing and has a very secure trigger motion. The only issue I take is why Metolius hasn't adopted a double axis. Overall super satisfied with my decision.

      First Impression, thumb loop???

      • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

      I picked up numbers 3-6 as an extra set for finger size cracks and to compliment the in-between sizes of my c4 sets. I was initially hesitant because these didn't have a thumb loop. I saw that some people didn't like the change, especially outdoorgearlab. I mostly wanted to know how unpleasant this feature would be on my first few climbs, until I got used to them. I'd have to say that I didn't notice any drawbacks to not having a thumb loop at all. Besides being a different color and size than I'm used to it was super easy to handle. I'd go a step further and say that for LCC/City of Rocks/Jtree type granite these cams feel sticky in the crack and offer a lot of confidence. Overall I was surprised how much I liked these cams, especially after using the c4s for the last decade.

      Solid Set of Cams

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      I bought a set of these with the intention of having what was effectively doubles for a set of Camalot C4 but with the added bonus of cams with sizes in between the Camalots rather than strictly doubles.

      As a relatively new trad climber, the red-yellow-green coding is great and saves me a bit of thought when placing, while the fact that it's a single-axle design leads me to be a bit more thoughtful under some circumstances. (If a two-axle cam walks into a crack that widens out inward, it unseats but becomes equivalent to a passive chock; a single-axle cam will potentially blow if it walks inward and then gets pulled.) Having the in-between sizes has come in handy. The low-to-mid-range of sizes (#00-#6) have great, smooth action, but I like the feel of the similar-sized Camalots better than the #7 or #8.

      Really miss having thumb loop

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I just have the Black #5 to replace a BD X4 0.75 I lost. It's slighly larger than a BD 0.75. I use it often on the splitters that gradually transition from 0.75 to 1.0. The fact that it's a little bit bigger than BD 0.75 is nice, but man do I wish it had a thumb loop. I didn't realize how much I missed a thumb loop until I was trying to place this cam quickly as I was getting pumped. It's great that it's cheap and an off size from most of my cams, but the missing thumb loop is a deal breaker for me now.

      It Is Fair To Call Them Thebomb.com

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times


      Things to love about these cams:
      -Weight: These things are crazy light compared to other cams. There is a noticeable difference when these cams are on your harness compared to a BD c4 rack.
      -Kevlar Trigger Wires: One thing I didn't love about the smaller BD x4 sizes was the metal trigger wires, as they seemed a little suspect. Metolius has solved this by giving kevlar strands across the board. In my opinion, this gives a better feel to the smaller sizes.
      -Build Quality: These cams are super bomber. Even though I have only put in a few pitches on them, it is easy to tell that they were built to last.

      Things that are just okay about these cams:
      -Bigger sizes (7-8) are a little clunky to use because the heavy heads make the stem a little floppy. Also these two walk significantly more than the smaller sizes. Still work very well, just need to find a very niche placement for them.
      -Lack of thumb loop: This may be a turn off for some, but you get used to it really quick. Makes it slightly more prone to dropping when taking them off your harness, just need to be a little more careful.
      -Range Finder System: Metolius claims this makes them easier to place, but in reality it is useless and just for show.

      Verdict: Smaller sizes of these cams, in my opinion, are a better alternative to BD x4's. They will both save weight when racked up, and last long to their counterparts. Diminishing returns start to go into effect once the cams start getting bigger, so be slightly wary of the 7 & 8. Overall a super well made product, would recommend to a friend.

      Great Camn

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      I purchased these to supplement my BD fingers, as each one just about fills in the gap in sizing of the X4's. I really like the snap of each cam and have yet to decide whether or not I like the lack of thumb loops

      Great package

      • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

      These are the only cams my father uses. He's been trad climbing for 15 years now! That must say something. I don't have a collection of gear, yet.

      Out with the old

        Thought I'd miss the thumb loop on these cams. I don't. I don't miss the weight they shaved off by removing it either. I found on the old models that in the smaller sizes, the springs lost their action over time, even when cleaned. I went down to yellow, but going to try the two biggest and see how they fare against the competition. One thing that's weird to get used to is now the biner is oriented 90 degrees different because the thumb loop is gone. Other than that, I only give these four stars because the "green" range is still the same as the old ones. Not that it really matters, but if people actually used this range, especially on the tightly cammed range of the "green", they'd be getting these things stuck all the time. Never made sense to me. They feel just like the old ones when placing and pulling the trigger.

        Confidence-inspiring small cams

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        It's hard to write a review for a piece of gear like cams in 2017 because there's only a few players in the market and they all basically work as expected. That said, new designs and innovations from the big 4 cam makers seem to come out biennially like car models.

        I rack C4s at .5 and up, and these ULMCs from size 3 (orange) on down to purple. This works for me for a number of reasons; I prefer the buttery smooth action of C4s in the larger sizes where I have more margin for error (e.g. undercammed placements) and the snap of Metolius in the smaller sizes where I have less. I also tend to extend small cams more than large cams as necessitated by my home range and so I rack each C4 to its own biner but up to 6 ULMCs to one biner (they're so light!). The number 1 is rated at a whopping 8 kN for such a small piece!

        Excellent!

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        Picked a few of these up to supplement my rack. Given the rising prices of climbing gear it was nice to see a company put out a superb product at a reasonable price that will stand the test of time. They place well, have standard features and some upgrades. Buy these and the aliens and you will be set!

        These things are awesome.

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        These are incredible. They're lightweight and set in the rock well. For any placement that is smaller than a Camalot .5, I grab these. I thought the lack of the thumb loop might be an issue, but it doesn't effect the trigger action at all for me. Although they have less range than the X4's, I haven't had an issue with that. Great cams at a great price!

        A bit bendy.

          I took these cams to Red Rock and climbed on the solar slab wall. I really liked placing the cam but when it came to removing them my partner had an it of trouble pulling them out. If it gets cammed in the rock really well sometimes the flexibility of the cam makes it hard to remove.

          Ultralight Cams

          • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

          I bought a full set of these cams this past summer. I used them about 8 times. They place well, super light weight and no big deal without the thumb loop. I was out a month ago on a multi pitch climb and reached for my # 1 and found that the retraction cable had pulled out. No big deal, just disappointed about the quality. When I got back home I called warranty dept. and spoke to a customer service person. I explained the problem and their response was no big deal, just send it back. As I questioned this person they said they had a batch of glue that was found defective. They had problems with the 4 smallest sizes and to send the other three back and they will re do the cables on all four cams at no charge. It' nice to know that they stand behind their product, after the fact. Maybe a reason for a recall ? So I rushed them off and after a week I once again called to see if they got them. They got them and I was told that it would be two weeks in the shop. It's been three weeks and I'm still waiting. I just hope I get them before ice season starts. I would have been more upset if this was in May. Great product but overall concerned about quality issues, longevity of product , and customer service. Would this glue issue be a reason for product recall ?




          Lighter loads.

          • Familiarity: I've used it several times

          It sure is nice having a rack full of Metolius Ultralight Master Cams packed away for long approaches. Not only do these beauties live up to their ultralight name, they're also slimmer and more compact so I can pack a couple more beers for the descent. Although lighter and more compact, the ultralights don't deserve a full five stars (IMO) because the design suffered ergonomics. The lack of a thumb loop takes a while to get used to, and I feel like the head angle exacerbates cleaning ever so slightly.

          Is the #7 the same size as the wild country helium #3.5? I can't find a 3.5 helium anywhere so I'm looking to complete my doubles rack with something of a similar range

          The purple cam shown in the picture as a #8 light purple cam doesn't seem to be the right picture. Shouldn't the #8 be the largest of this set not a small piece like the one shown?