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  • La Sportiva - Genius Climbing Shoe - Red

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  • La Sportiva - Genius Climbing Shoe - Red

La Sportiva Genius Climbing Shoe

$195.00

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    5528

    28 Reviews

    Details

    The wheel, the lightbulb, and now the Genius.

    La Sportiva calls the Genius Climbing Shoe its highest performing shoe for boulderers, sport climbers, and overhanging aficionados. The Genius gains its high performance through a No-Edge technology rubber overlay over the toe, which grips on edges and make-believe footholds like they were ledges. This remarkable technology lets you place your feet quicker and more efficiently, without having to readjust because No-Edge feels that good on the first step.

    The Genius also features La Sportiva's mind-bending P3 technology that made the Solution one of the most popular shoes today. P3 uses a Permanent Power Platform to maintain the Genius' aggressive downturn for life. Like the Testarossa, the Genius' heel is surprisingly soft, stretchy, and sensitive for a proper fit as well as solid heel-hooking.

    Vibram gave the Genius its hardest and stickiest XS Grip rubber to match its high performance. The thin sole works with the LaspoFlex midsole to keep the Genius malleable and flexible like most professional-grade high-performance climbing shoes these days. La Sportiva left the upper unlined so your foot can slide into the soft and smooth suede upper, and the microfiber tongue gusset adds soft, lightly padded comfort.

    • No-Edge edging technology
    • P3's mind-bending power technology
    • Suede upper, unlined
    • Comfy microfiber tongue gusset
    • Vibram XS Grip 2 sole
    • Item #LSP005T
    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    new to no edge technology

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    So far I have used these shoes indoors for about one month. I have not had the opportunity to test them outdoors , so my opinions are based on gym climbing.
    To begin I had spent a lot of time reading reviews of others who have used these shoes. I was skeptical about them and was concerned that they might change how my feet edge on holds in a negative way. I finally pulled the trigger on them, and so far I am glad I have. I have noticed several things about them.
    1. I have tested very small micro chip edges compared to sportive testarosa and solutions on a slab wall. the genius shoes edge better, no doubt.
    2. when you edge with these shoes, because there is a no edge, you can slightly evert (pronate) your foot. what happens is that you then engage your hamstrings and glut muscles which help to naturally pull your body more into the wall. This is a good thing. if you try to do the same thing with a shoe with an edge, if it is a small edge, there is more of a tendency to come off the hold.
    3. It is easier to turn you foot on a hold with these shoes compared to other edge shoes that i have. i notice this on overhang climbs and bouldering routes.
    My other shoes that i currently use are lace miuras, solutions, testarosas and now the genius.
    i am looking forward to trying these shoes outside as soon as I am able to do so, but so far I am a fan of these shoes

    By far the best shoe I've ever owned

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Background: I started in Rogues, then Shamans, then Demons. I have a narrow foot and a relatively shallow heel.

    I actually got my first pair of these in Bishop, CA. I went in the store thinking I'd buy a pair of Women's Solutions or some Oasi's. Ended up walking out with 40.5 Geniuses.

    They fit my foot better than any other shoe, particularly in the heel, which drew me to them initially. The toebox was tight and borderline painful, the heel was tight and didn't have much dead space.

    From the first time I climbed in them, I loved the no-edge technology. I felt like I could smear well and edge on a dime while climbing in the Buttermilks. Not to mention, finding some pretty sweet heel hooks.

    Over time, these shoes quickly became my absolute favorite of all time. Though, I did end up regretting getting the 40.5's instead of the 41's as they were a bit TOO tight for my liking, I'm fine with a little pain but it made it hard to climb until they broke in a bit. I got them in 41 for my second pair, my feet feel like they've stepped through the pearly gates.

    Onto the stiffness and rubber: I don't think the Geniuses are particularly flexible or stiff, they're kind of in the middle but I'd say they lean towards the stiffer side, similar to the Testarosa. They're much more rigid than something like the Drago, Mocasym, or Rogues. It's a good balance between stiff and soft where you can smear well enough, but also edge properly. I'd say that these shoes are better at edging than smearing but, I haven't had issues with either. The rubber of the shoe could have something to do with it. The rubber is excellent, once again a good balance between soft and hard like the stiffness. Again, leaning to the hard side. They're softer than a Scarpa Instinct VS and harder than a VSR. I think it hits the sweet spot, but I'm obviously quite biased.

    I've discussed fit, stiffness, rubber, thus far, I'll end it with durability and usage. I use them for bouldering primarily but I have no issues with using them for sport either. I don't know if I'd recommend them for multi-pitch but, for single pitch sport and bouldering they're fantastic. They're fairly aggressive so they excel on small holds and overhanging routes/problems. I don't have any issues heeling or toeing with these shoes which is why I like them for bouldering so much. Furthermore, these shoes are fairly durable from my experiences with them. I climb about 3-4 times a week on average for 2+ hours (V8/9+) and they have lasted me for quite a while. It took me about 7 months to wear through my last pair which is pretty good if you ask me. However, I've heard that people go through these shoes fairly quickly, maybe I'm doing something different?

    Regardless, they perform as well as they look, the no-edge is a blessing, they're great for overhanging bouldering and you'll like them if you have a narrow foot/shallow heel. Though, You can get away with them if you don't fit those specifications. Similar to Futuras in terms of fit.

    Not My Style

      These are obviously very quality shoes, but I decided not to keep them because after trying them out for a little bit I figured out that I'm not a big fan of the edgeless design. It's just not nearly as easy to get your feet onto small footholds. However, the lacing makes it easy to fit the shoe to your foot comfortably, and I think the design is super cool. Smearing felt great in these shoes so if I ever became rich enough to own several pairs of climbing shoes, I'd get these again.

      Lightning strikes.

      • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
      • Fit: Runs small

      This is just my initial review, but I've been searching for this very moment: got home with my new pair, sized up from street 43 (hurt) to 44.5 and put 'em on with plastic bags just to see if they were OK. Walked around my room and they were pretty uncomfortable still. Loosened all of the laces, walked around to no improvement. Decided to put them on no bags, and tie them really tight... Suddenly they just conformed to feet, snapped to attention and creepily whispered, "Yes, let's climb some boulders, sir..."

      Let's see if lightning strikes twice when I actually climb on them.

      Update - LOVE LOVE LOVE. These are so nice. Once I got accustomed to the no edge design, I can make them stick to whatever I want. These truly shine on sport climbs, very comfy, yet aggressive enough to crush. Toes don't hurt anymore. You definitely have to lace them up differently though. Pic coming soon.

      Lightning strikes.

      The stretch has been... interesting. After two weeks I thought I miss sized, they got sloppy. Then they kinda broke in better and now its perfect. A little downturned toe action. I sized up from street haha. Depends on how you like it. The no edge is weird and I could not imagine being in them if they were aggressive fit, I'd probably cry.

      I don't lace them like they come, and to be critical of other reviews, if you only lace up with the basic cross, your shoes will never perform at their best. I skip the 2nd to last loops and go the last loops then double back the 2nd to last and back through the last ones. This allows me to loosed the top and toe box, but when I tighten the laces, it pulls the heel cup forward, helping with heel hooks. I'll put a pick up soon.

      Also, I got the strangest blisters with these, but I love them, indoor and out.

      Best Sport Climbing Shoe!

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times
      • Fit: True to size

      I have been using these shoes for quite some time now. All sport routes in Maple Canyon, UT and Lander, WY. They have been awesome! They are a little pricey but with the no-edge technology you don't have to break them in. They will preform at the highest level right out of the box, which is HUGE with new technical climbing shoes. They will wear more evenly so in turn last longer before you blow out the toes. The P3 band is awesome! They wrap your heel so well, I have never felt them slip when cranking on your toes on steep over-hangs. I got them true to size. I wear a 9 1/2 street shoe. They were a little tight at first, which is what I wanted, but were not so unbearable I had to take them off between every pitch.
      If you have any questions:
      email me @: wbowen@backcountry.com or give me a call @ (801) 204-4571

      Unreal!

        I purchased these about a month ago and have put them through quite heavy use, and I have absolutely no complaints! They are durable, grippy, and have a perfect fit. By far one of the best climbing shoes I have ever had. I highly suggest these to anyone in the market for a new pair of climbing shoes.

        Flawless and #1 in the shoe game!

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
        • Fit: Runs large
        • Size Bought: 42.5
        • Height: 6'0"
        • Weight: 185lbs

        I have yet to find a negative side to the La Sportiva Genius! I have purchased two pairs over a year and a half (one for indoor and one for outdoor) and LOVE them! They took 3 or 4 weeks of consistent climbing to break in, but once they were broken in they fit to perfection. They do seem to run large, so I have a 42.5 (9.5 US), however, I wear an 11 to 11.5 street shoe, so size down 2 sizes. From indoor to outdoor climbing/bouldering, there is no shoe better for all around climbing while still be aggressive and comfortable enough!

        Climb with confidence

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
        • Fit: True to size
        • Size Bought: 39.5
        • Height: 5'11"
        • Weight: 155lbs

        Amazing shoes. Have had 10+ pairs of solutions and these are my new go-to shoe. I usually wear 40's in solutions. I hated the smearing capabilities of the solutions, how bulky they were, and hated the inside edge. Had to go down a size (39.5) for these. Were extremely tight in the beginning but stretched about 0.25-0.5 of a size and are now perfect. I believe that 40's would have been too big and felt floppy.

        I wear my Katana lace (40.5) for 90% of the time and use the Genius (39.5) for projects and roofs. Great for smearing, vertical, or overhang.

        Smedge like there's no tomorrow

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
        • Fit: Runs large
        • Size Bought: 39
        • Weight: 15lbs

        I've seen some of the reviews on here saying not to size down these shoes....... lul.... I wear a 9.5/10 street size and opted with the 39. Rather snug the first couple weeks wearing them, but they've stretched a half size to a full size now. You can seriously smear on anything in them. they also edge fairly well. The shoes are very sensitive and you can feel out everything you touch. The one downside (I guess) to that is that it can hurt one's toes. The heel isn't that amazing, but the other pair of shoes i just had came with the s heel, so there isn't really a comparison. All in all, a great shoe that is worth the money. When it comes time to resole i will likely bounce down to a 38.

        good

        • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
        • Fit: True to size
        • Size Bought: 41
        • Height: 5'8"
        • Weight: 145lbs

        10.5 street shoe
        10 minimalist running shoes
        10 approach shoes
        41 Genius
        40.5 Mythos
        41 Katana lace
        42.5 Python
        41.5 Mura VS
        10 Evolv Shaman
        its true to size for other la sportiva shoes
        lasts longer than shoes with a traditional edge.

        So good

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times
        • Fit: True to size
        • Size Bought: 40
        • Height: 5'7"
        • Weight: 148lbs

        Edging awesomeness! The genius are def a solid upgrade from my previous Katanas (also awesome). These fit my feet snug and feel a lot better than the Solutions. I dont heel hook that often outside, but they seem fine when i do. I would not spend the full price for these though. I was concerned about the durability because of the whole no edge concept, but they seem to be holding up well. I had a weird theory that taking out the edge would mean skimping on the rubber. I like the sensitivity you get with the no edge technology. I prefer laces over velcro and was intrigued with these once they came out. La Sportiva yet again makes a solid climbing shoe.

        So good

        One problem...

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

        I've had these shoes for about 5 months, climbing 4-5 days a week. I was super amped to get my hands on a pair of these, all the reviews were great and people were claiming they were La Sportiva's greatest hit. Perviously I had been wearing Solutions and had absolutely no complaints. My initial impression was that it lived up to the hype, fantastic fit and I loved the no-edge technology. As I used the shoes more however I found that the heel was just not cutting it, it would slip off my heal and I felt as though it was a little large and unwieldy. For those of you that say I just get a smaller shoe, believe me I am not a novice climber and already wear my shoes 1.5-2 sizes below my street shoe size. If you are thinking about buying this shoe I would suggest you go and buy the solution instead.

        Futura edge technology, Testarossa fit

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times
        • Fit: Runs small
        • Height: 5'11"

        This shoe seems to work best for me on rock types with more friction. Smears and sloping footholds are easier to toe down on.

        Dime edges and rock with less friction make this shoe feel a bit unwieldy. The toe-hooking rubber is also not what it should be for a shoe this price and build quality. Buy this shoe if you have room for more than one pair!

        Friend Loves Them

        • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
        • Fit: True to size

        I gave these to my friend for his Birthday. He was between these, the Katanas and the Miura. He mostly climbs the cottonwoods out here in UT and occasional gym. He found these to be high performance, while still being comfortable as well.

        Big on Sensitivity, Wish for Women's

        • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
        • Fit: True to size
        • Size Bought: 39 1/5
        • Height: 5'8"
        • Weight: 140lbs

        Have only done a handful of boulder problems, tried for overhung with small chips to smears, but am instantly sold on this for the sensitivity I receive. Never have I felt more confident about my foot placements. Had a momentary concern for the tops of my toes on hooks, but the extra layer meant while sensitive I did not experience any excessive discomfort. The heel seems... disappointing with just a slab of rubber over, but have not had to engage a serious heel hook yet.

        My favorite project shoes have been the women's Solutions due to the narrower arch and heel and thinner rubber, but these might replace with a little more familiarity. However, I noticed if never felt a little bunching up near the start of the laces due to how tightly I tie em down, and without being tightly tied there is space in my arch. I seriously hope for a women's version of this because I could not imagine a better shoe than these designed for a narrower foot.

        Genius

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times
        • Fit: True to size
        • Size Bought: 43
        • Height: 6'3"
        • Weight: 175lbs

        Awesome shoes! I was skeptical about the no edge thing but it's actually cool because you can toe on smears like dancers: With the tip of the toes instead of trying to use the bottom of the foot.
        I size 43 on Miura VS and went with the same size for this one. 11.5-12 street shoe size

        It's Genius

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
        • Fit: True to size
        • Size Bought: 46
        • Height: 6'3"
        • Weight: 195lbs

        Fit like the solutions but with the added benefit of laces to customize the fit. These shoes are sensitive but supportive at the same time, they stick to the tiniest ripple in the rock. I have only used these shoes outside (I refuse to use them in a gym their to nice) but have been very impressed with the performance of these shoes and they have become my go to shoe. Just to clarify I own 10 pairs of climbing shoes (LS Solutions, LS Katana Lace, LS Pythons, LS Cobras, LS Futura, Tenaya Oasi, Teneya Tarifa, Evolv Shaman, LS Mythos) and I use them for different things but the Genius is my go to shoe of choice for most hard climbs.

        I guess their okay....

        • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
        • Fit: True to size

        But seriously, these shoes are awesome. They don't perform perfect on plastic, but on real rock they're amazing. Still, don't think they aren't good in the gym. I found they slip on those glass smooth holds, but other than that, perfect. The heal is very solid, and sensitive. No need to go into anything else, everyone else is spot on.

        Now on to sizing...
        I wear a 43.5 in solutions
        44.5 TC pro(comfy)
        44s for performance
        I got the same size as solutions, and they fit perfect. The nice goldilocks medium between super tight, and loose. You need a tiny bit of room for your toes to flex to really let the no-edge blossom

        Unanswered Question

        I tried on a pair of miuras at my local gym for sizing and found that the 41s were exceptionally tight and after a very short time my little toe began to hurt, but the 41.5s felt like once they were broken in they might be a little on the lose side. So ideally for miuras I would want a 41.25 (I can dream, at least).

        I understand these run about a half size smaller because they are softer, so I'm wondering if I should go with the 41s that hurt in the miuras or drop to the 40.5?

        The shoes I'm currently wearing are evolv chronos in a 43.

        I wear a 43 in the Mythos. Tried these on in a 42.5, and they were snug, borderline too tight. Would you suggest sizing up to 43, or sticking with the 42.5? These will be my more aggressive/bouldery shoes

        They're supposed to fit more snugly than something like a Mythos, but you don't want them to be painfully tight. I used to coach, and my policy was that if you can move your toes (both up/down and forward/back) without moving the shoe, they're too loose. I'd stick with the 42.5, but ultimately it's your call.

        Unanswered Question

        I just received this and I'm trying to figure out if I picked the right size for me. I normally wear 41 on Testarossa, breaking in was painful on these shoes but after some use I love how they fit and the performance. I ordered 41 for the Genius as well and right out of the box feel snug but not extremely tight, they actually seem quite comfortable compared to the testarossas. How much does the Genius stretch? Im just debating if I should downsize to 40.5 on the Genius. Based on previews reviews, it seems like this shoe would perform better if not extremely tight?. Any help would be greatly appreciated!. BTW I love my testarrosas but can't wait to try these ones.

        How much do you recommend these for face climbing or slightly overhung? I have miura vs, should I order the same size? Thanks mates.

        Best Answer

        I downsized 1/2 size from my Muira VS size due to the shoes softness. Like most downturned shoes, this is pretty good on overhangs. As for slabs, you wouldn't be edging anymore but rather "smedging". The shoe is so soft that the toe just conforms around the rock, rather than lining up the traditional edge perfectly and edging. It will work your foot a lot more and will take a lot of time to get used to if you're not used to using a soft shoe. I started out with the Futuras and when I tried the Muira VS, I felt like I couldn't feel anything and just got rid of them. I've only had these for a month, but I did use my futuras for all types of terrain. When the shoe breaks in, it feels so good that I don't need to take them off during my gym sessions. Hope that helps!

        Any ETA on when size 41.5 will be back in stock? Thanks guys.

        Hey Jazon,



        We should have 2 of them in the next 2 weeks. Let me know if there's anything else I can help you with. I'll do my best to let you know when we get them in stock.



        Ben

        brabinowitz@backcountry.com

        801-746-7564