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Black Diamond Momentum Dual Speed Harness

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12 Reviews


Black Diamond's most versatile harness.

Black Diamond designed its Momentum Dual Speed Harness to keep you comfortable whether you're a beginner at the gym or an expert on a moderate multipitch. Its Dual Core Construction consists of two bands of webbing that split around the waist in order to allow maximum breathability and weight reduction without any pressure points. Black Diamond also slid OpenAir EVA foam padding and an abrasion-resistant mesh panel between the nylon shell to optimize the harness's comfort and durability. Two Forged Speed Adjust buckles have raised side rails that help prevent abrasions from the webbing, upturned baseplates that allow an easier lift for loosening, and a rear kick down on the top plates that eliminates any slippage while you climb.

The Momentum also features TrakFit slide adjusters that cinch across your legs securely and simply without the need of bulky buckles. You can either adjust or release the elastic rear riser for an ideal fit and optional drop-seat use. Four pressure-molded gear loops give you plenty of space for quickdraws and cams, and its haul loop is rated at 12 kN in order to ensure you can bring what you need on long climbs.

  • Dual Core Construction
  • Dual Forged Speed Adjust buckles
  • TrakFit leg loop adjustments
  • Adjustable, releasable rear elastic riser
  • OpenAir EVA foam padding
  • Four pressure-molded gear loops
  • 12 kN-rated haul loop
  • Item #BLD001M

Tech Specs

210D nylon twill, 150D polyester mesh, 4-way nylon knit
OpenAir EVA foam
Forged Speed Adjust
Adjustable Leg Loops
yes, TrakFit
Gear Loops
Haul Loop
yes, 12kN-rated
Claimed Weight
14 oz
Recommended Use
sport climbing, trad climbing, gym climbing
Manufacturer Warranty
1 year

Tech Specs

  • Reviews
  • Q & A

What do you think about this product?

Have questions about this product?

Pretty much perfect

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Fully adjustable as you gain fitness and shed a few pounds or for adding layers in the colder months. Perfect all-around harness. Like the gear loops far better than the Petzl Corax (has floppy loops) but they could be bigger.

Versatile Harness

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I spend a lot of my time climbing both indoors and outdoors. I usually climb outside about 3 times a week and indoor up to 5 times a week.(Weather dependent)

This harness is great for a person who wants one harness that can do everything. It is comfortable enough to wear for long days on the wall or just for days spent at the crag.

The dual buckle system makes the harness very comfortable. Gone are the days where you harness is rotated around your waist as you try to get it situated properly. With the duel buckles now the belay loops is always in the center of you body!

I am 6'2 175lbs with 33in waist and wear the XS/M

Versatile Harness

Great gym harness

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I climb at the gym 3-4 times a week and outdoor sport climb 2-3 times a month. I've used this harness every time.
PROS: Its light, durable, and very comfortable. The price is what drove me to get a new gym harness to play around with/have an extra for a buddy. It was very cheap but the quality is way above the price. Its perfect for they gym and beginner routes outdoors. I'd say its the best "first" harness for the noobies because of price to quality ratio. 10/10 for gym.

CONS: After using it outdoors, I'd give it 8/10. Only because the top of the belt frayed a little after some hard falls. Nothing to damage the belt to the point its unsafe. Just cosmetic. It rained a little bit at the first pitch and it absorbed a little water and I felt the weight. But then again its not an alpine harness so that's expected.

Overall: Great beginner/backup harness. I'll buy this again when its almost time to get a new one.

Awesome harness

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've used a fair amount of different harnesses throughout the years and this is my favorite so far. Great for the price point. Comfortable to wear all day and wicked easy to adjust quickly if you want to add or shed a layer. I spread my time pretty evenly between indoor and outdoor climbing and it has served me great in both fields. I've had it for around a year and a half now and usually use it a couple times a week. I am 5'7 150 and I found that a medium fits great.

Great first harness

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I purchased this in April 2013 as my first harness for gym climbing. About 90% of the times I've climbed indoors with this harness, and 10% of the time outdoors.

It is a very comfortable harness, and I have always felt secure in the harness, even on steeper pitches. Belaying for friends is a comfortable experience with this harness.

I am a 29 waist and the XS/M works perfectly for me.

In 3 years of using this harness multiple times a week there is no major wear or tears. I plan to run this harness for many more years.

My alltime favorite Canyoneering harness

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have been using my 1st Momentum Dual Speed harness for canyoneering for a few years now and it is still going strong! Granted I'm probably nicer to my gear than most people and I try not to grind it against the sandstone as much as possible. I love the Dual Speed buckles because they make the harness easy and quick to put on and take off, and I don't have to double it back which is a huge plus! If your buddy somehow forgets their harness (this has happened in my group), you have a broader sizing range in this 1 harness than in most others. The harness is comfortable and doesn't get as tangled up in itself as your standard single double back buckled harness. I love it so much that I bought a 2nd one for when I need to retire my tried and true current harness.

My alltime favorite Canyoneering harness

Sizing can be tricky

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

This is an excellent all 'round harness for either sport or trad climbing. I am 6' 1" (165 lbs) with a 32-33 waist. I initially went for the XS/M (fits waist 26-35 and thighs 18-24), but found that the gear loops ended up way around behind me. Even the front loops were at the back part of my side. So,, being the awesome company they are, immediately switched it out for the L/XL (fits waist 30-42 and thighs 21-27). So, just be aware of this when ordering. This is a very comfortable harness.

Perfect for anyone.

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I am 5 foot 8 inches and 190 pounds with a 34 inch waste and I went with the L/XL, it was a perfect fit. It is has a dual buckle in the front that is very easily adjusted and the perfect amount of padding to keep you comfortable but without feeling weighted down.

Easy Adjust

  • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

Got this to replace the boyfriend's old Petzl harness- that didn't have any adjustable leg loops and was quite frankly just uncomfortable- and this was the RIGHT choice! He says it's much more comfortable in the padding on the waist and legs, and having the adjustable leg loops is a huge plus as well. The adjustments are super easy, you don't have the fight with them to get it to your right size. The dual buckle on the waist is nice as well to ensure a swell fit and keep the harness right where you want it. He generally wears a 31-32 in pants and has a very athletic build- the XS/M is the perfect size. Another Thumbs Up for you BD!


    This is my second harness. I had the black diamond sa forever. I got this one for a more four season use to be Able to add more clothes. The only thing I don't like is that the elastics on the back aren't the clip instead there the slide in kind which is ok. But just a little time consuming.

    Great first harness

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    Got this as my first harness getting into the sport. The slim padding keeps it low profile but fairly comfortable, and the adjustable leg loops are great for someone like me with skinny thighs that has a hard time finding a harness that fits well. Black Diamond advertises this as a great harness for agencies to use for rentals, but I think it's perfect for use around the crag. It's not advertised as an all-season harness (like the momentum al harness is) but as far as I can tell the only reasoning behind this is that there is no ice clipper slot. I see no reason why this harness couldn't be used mountaineering (the adjustable leg loops are great for sizing over extra layers as well).

    If you fall between sizes on other Black Diamond harnesses as well, then the dual adjustments on the waist band will allow you to keep your belay loop centered. The large range in possible sizes also makes it a great harness for loaning out to friends who are new to climbing.

    I bought this harness directly from Black Diamond on closeout, so I paid significantly less than the regular price of $70. At that listed price I would suggest that you go with the momentum sa (unless, as I stated earlier, you're between sizes).

    Pros: large size range, 12kN rated haul loop, one-handed adjustment of leg loops, entry-level price

    Cons: limited padding, no ice clipper slot (may be preferable for some), pricier than momentum sa or al

    In summary: great entry level harness that should last you years of service in all environments. I would definitely recommend this harness for someone who doesn't fit normally sized BD harnesses or will be sharing their harness with a friend.

    Bahbahbah bah I'm loving it.

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    A super comfortable harness that kills it, the dual adjust is an awesome feature that gives you a range adjustment for a lot of different sizes. A few other great features are the plentiful gear loops to keep your gear on and the adjustable leg loops, from canyoneering to trad climbing this is a great harness.

    Im right on the fence when it comes to sizing, I have 30 in waist with 23 in legs, according to the chart either one should fit but Im not sure if I should opt for the xs/m or the L/XL, what do you think?

    When will you Stock up on this for size...

    When will you Stock up on this for size S/M?