Anasazi goes pro.
Professional climber Shauna Coxsey wore Five Ten Anasazi Pro Climbing Shoe prototypes when she won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup in 2017. Not only did she send in them, but she also worked with Five Ten designers to make a show worthy of her powerful prowess. Compared to the original Anasazi, the Anasazi Pro boasts a little more heel tension to provide better aggression and precision. The toe patch is also a new update to the Anasazi family, and it's made of Five Ten's stickiest Stealth Mi6 rubber for reliable friction. The bottom rubber is Five Ten's ever-trustful Stealth C4 rubber that Coxsey admittedly used when she first started climbing at the age of four.
- The professional Anasazi for aspiring, competitive climbers
- Tighter heel tension gives a more aggressive, precise fit
- Stiff Stealth C4 sole amplifies pressure on small holds
- Stealth Mi6 rubber enhances the toe patch's friction
- Synthetic upper with full rubber toe practically eliminates stretching
- Item #FVT003U
- Q & A
Updated classics, but not comfortable.
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
(UPDATED REVIEW AT THE END) I wore the original Anasazi Velcro in the early 90's when they came out and thought they were way better than the other shoes on the market back then. Pointy, sticky, simple, supportive, precise, no need for laces, and just worked on pretty much everything. It has been since the 90's since I've worn these and ordered the Anasazi Pro because I was curious how they would be with the modified heal and added toe hooking rubber. Well, out of the box I am psyched! They fit almost exactly to size as the regular Anasazi but a smidge more tight in the toe box because of the added rubber. I would suggest getting the same size if you have worn the other ones. I wear a size 9 in the Teams and the Vxi (which I have had several pairs of and think they are the best shoes ever) but I wear an 8 in these Anasazis.
The Anasazi Pros are very stiff and pretty much a flat shoe, but I am getting pretty burnt out on the overly aggressive turned down toes of the modern "bouldering/ sport" shoes. I am looking forward to having a little support and not feel like my feet are getting tortured as much.
I will update the review once I have put them to the test.
UPDATE: I wore them a couple times and bummed out that they dig into my ankles bad bad. The way it is stitched around the ankles is just not soft, at all, and don't seem to be well put together. They also seem to be missing any sort of comfortable lining to soften the fabric around your foot. Feel kind of scratchy (for lack of better word) inside. I don't remember having those issues with the original Anasazis.
They DO toe/ heel hook great and edge really well. The rubber is super sticky and no issues there. I also think they look cool, but won't be able to wear them due to the ankle cutting situation.