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  • Edelrid - Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor  - Oasis
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  • Edelrid - Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor  - Oasis

Edelrid Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor

$129.95

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    • Oasis, One Size
      $129.95
    4.5514

    14 Reviews

    Details

    A must-have device for lighter belayers.

    Edelrid's Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor is unlike anything the climbing community has seen before, and it drastically increases safety for lighter belayers and heavier climbers. When clipped to the first bolt or placement, the Ohm increases rope friction so belayers don't fly in the air when the climber falls or lowers. This device doesn't interfere with rope handling whether it's the lead climber clipping or the belayer taking. When heavier climbers fall on the first piece, the most likely result is a ground fall, unless the first piece has an Ohm attached to it. Edelrid made this device compatible with any belay device and any rope between an 8.6 or 11mm diameter.

    • Assisted Braking Resistor helps light belayers and heavy climbers
    • Device increases rope friction when clipped to the first bolt
    • Eases catching falls and lowering climbers
    • Rope handling is unaffected for leader and belayer
    • Significantly reduces the risk of ground falls
    • Compatible with most ropes and every belay device
    • Item #ELR003B

    Tech Specs

    Type
    assisted brake
    Rope Diameter
    8.6 - 11 mm
    Strength
    20 kN
    Claimed Weight
    12 oz
    Recommended Use
    climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    limited

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Bigger than most? Don’t leave home w/out

      I am 215lbs and struggle to find partners willing to let me take a whippet or two. This device has changed it all for me. My wife belays me with nearly 100lb difference and she doesn’t struggle while taking. Has a few drawbacks. You’ll need to take off first clip on the way down and can get a bit caught when clipping second QuickDraw. Definitely need to be aware not to pull hard. I have adjusted and never even notice. It’s worth every penny and more.

      Solves a problem

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      It's great that a lot of women are getting into the sport, but I feel like a dick every time I slam some petite girl into the first bolt. This takes care of that, and hopefully encourages them to keep climbing with this fat dude. I've literally loaded backpacks with rocks trying to keep small people on terra firma while they belay me so compared to that, the weight is negligible. Also if your big enough to need this, you could probably always cut down on the beer to make up the difference, but we all know thats not happening.

      Just short of Excellent

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      So everyone that my wife and I ran into climbing said the same thing: Get an omh.

      So once we did I had fairly high expectations and for the most part this little device has met them. I do have a few gripes, but bottom line is that this thing does what it's supposed to, which is let my 105lb wife catch my 185lb butt when I fall. It's easy to load the rope in-- if you can read the pictures on a grigri you can read this just fine. It also lets smaller belayers lower me without having that herky jerky stop and go that I usually get when smaller people are struggling to gain control of the rope.

      That being said, this thing is Heavy! It's easily the heaviest thing I carry in my cragbag or to the gym. If you pull a lot of rope really quickly like I tend to do when you clip that can also activate the device so watch out for that. It's an easy thing to be aware of if you're not limit climbing. If you are limit climbing, get a bigger belayer. Last gripe is when you're lowering it can make the descent sloooowww as you're coming down against the friction of the omh the whole time. I'll take a slow smooth lowering over stop an go any day though.

      Final takeway: It does what it's supposed to but it's not perfect. There are a few things i'd like to see changed but all in all i'm happy with my purchase.

      For Projects and Pip Squeaks

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times

      This fancy little device is here to soften your fall and help light belayers give a nice catch. It definitely lives up to it description. Get one!

      For Projects and Pip Squeaks

      Nothing like it

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      The Ohm has changed the sport forever. It is not a gimmick, and I think as time goes we will see them everywhere. My wife and I have an 80 lb difference and when I take a big fall she barely leaves the ground. We live in the Red River Gorge and climb with our two little boys crag lumping around. This device helps calm the mind, helps my wife lower me smoothly, and has been the most helpful new piece of gear since the stick clip. If you are big or small this is a must. It doesn't compare to the Grigri, like comparing your favorite tech shoes to a happy meal. One gets you high, one makes you fat.

      Absolutely Awesome

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      My boyfriend is 60 lbs heavier than me. Immediately after using this device I caught him on a lead fall from the third bolt outdoors. Without the Ohm, I definitely would have been dragged up to the first bolt, and he would have come close to decking. This device added enough friction to keep me on the ground, while still giving him a soft catch. This is a good buy, because it not only keeps both partners with a weight difference safe, but also increases the confidence of a higher weight lead climber. My partner is so much more confident and isn't afraid of falling and hurting both of us. We feel like this is one of the best climbing investments that we have made.

      - One piece of advice: The added friction can make it hard to pull rope for clipping. Read the instructions that come with this device. They explain the proper angle between the first bolt and the belayer for a proper amount of friction. While the device helps tremendously, it still requires an active belayer to keep the climber safe.
      - This device is not light. But you only need to carry it to the first bolt, so I do not feel like that is a big deal at all in comparison to the protection that it offers.

      Don't wait. Get this!!!

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      This was a game changer for my lead climbing. I outweigh my wife by 60 to 70 lbs (27-31 kg) and so I was always super cautious and super aware of any possible fall that would send her to the first clip. I knew she was a little worried about the possibility of an injury when she was launched. All of this made me more nervous and more prone to mistakes while climbing. Then we bought the Ohm.

      After using this I took a big whipper and she maybe moved 4-5 inches off the ground instead of the 4-5 feet without the Ohm. My own climbing vastly improved - I jumped probably 3 grades of lead climbing because I was suddenly able to focus on the climbing again without getting in my head.

      It was easy to get the hang of. You clip the rope in before before you climb. If using it in a gym with pre-installed quick draws, make sure to clip into the bolt, rather than the quickdraw. Make sure the belayer is always 1 meter away from the first clip (even it's an overhang). Other than that... pretty straight forward.

      As an added bonus - when I'm being lowered my wife doesn't have to brace herself to simply lower me.

      Totally recommend this. Good work Edelrid!

      It's ok, still not quite there yet

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      Ok, I'm genuinely mad about the ohm so take my review with a grain of salt. I'm rating it 3 stars because it does 'get the job done', but beyond that there's several decisions in the design that don't make sense and that are genuinely annoying.
      I saw it being tested and publicized last year and was looking forward to getting one. Now that it's in my hands I'm left scratching my head as to why they built it this way.

      1. It's far too heavy. There is no active cam device, it's just pure friction from fixed components. Why does it need to weigh more than twice as much as a grigri? There's no reason to have the entire body built from steel or for the 3/4" thick solid steel base. It's just kind of ridiculously heavy.

      2. You must use their quick link at the dogbone attachment which, again, is heavy stainless steel. So many parts of this could be aluminum without compromising safety. It should also accept regular lockers instead of relying on a hardware store quicklink. Also, the dogbone doesn't have a rubber orientation guide, I could see the link getting cross loaded pretty easily.

      3. They've fallen into the branding trap where the entire thing is Edelrid Fluro yellow, but with such heavy emphasis on rope direction they could have made far better color choices in allowing quick identification of correct rope direction. It's possible that a climber will want to use this 'pre installed' in which case it becomes tricky to quickly ID the correct orientation. Why not give the climber every chance to easily get it right?

      4. It's just big. And heavy. I know, it's worth mentioning twice. It's hard to wrap my head around why a simple friction device needs to weigh this much. It feels like they could almost bring this down to the weight of a few aluminium biners

      5. It's expensive. Why does it cost 30% more than a grigri. Again, no moving parts. No magic, just friction. It's far overpriced.

      As you can tell I'm really disappointed and looking forward to a version 2 or for another manufacturer to get it right. All that said it does work well, it's just more suited for industrial applications (like permanent install in a gym) than belonging on a rec climbers rack. Something like this should be able to live in my climbing bag to be used on a whim, now I'll have to carefully consider whether to lug almost a pound of steel on the off chance I'd like to use it. I'd only recommend buying you have an absolute need for it.

      Crypple,

      You've definitely got a few good questions in your review, so I figured I'd post a response with what should be some answers.

      Weight:
      You aren't wrong in this being a piece of gear that weighs a fair bit. I made a similar comment about the weight being a bit much. But from my understanding, there is a need for the added weight. Since this device relies on the angle of the rope (between the lead climber and belayer during the fall) and a dynamic belay (while the lead climber is clipping pro), if the device was super light weight, when the leader goes to pull up rope to clip their next piece of pro the device could potentially engage (this is a hypothetical to if the device didn't weigh what it does). If the device did engage when you're going to clip your next piece of pro, that'd be the worst time for the device to engage.

      Cost:
      Comparing the gri-gri and ohm on cost is an apples to oranges type comparison. Two different companies, making different products, with different R&D budgets and most importantly making different quantities of each product. But also, lets not forget that a gri-gri doesn't come with a quicklink, dogbone or keylock carabiner the way the Ohm does. That is where some of the other cost comes from.

      And I'd agree about thinking through what gear you'll be hauling in on a long approach. I use this more in the gym or on short approach single pitch climbing.

      Hope this helps and hope you enjoy the gear!

      So good

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I weigh 200lbs and my climbing partner is a tiny 100lbs. Lead climbing with her has always been a nightmare. I always worried about what would happen in a big fall. With the ohm. We've tested in the gym and outside. The distance of falls is significantly reduced and when she lowers me she no longer gets pulled off the ground and has way more control. No issues with pulling up rope to clip. Highly recommend this for climbing partners who are in miss matched in weight.

      A Nice Device

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I'd highly recommend that the climber and the belayer both, read and re-read the instructions to make sure the belayer is standing the proper distance from the wall and you have a good idea for how to use it. Rigging it is pretty easy/straight forward but the belayer needs to be a little more attentive to their distance from the wall and the angle that the rope makes when going through the device.

      To give some context, I'm a 180lb climber and my girlfriend is 125/130lb climber.

      I think this is definitely money well spent for the climbers out there where there is a big weight difference between the lead climber and belayer. I've almost butt slapped a light weight belayer a few times before and it's definitely not something I'd want to subject a belayer to.

      Rigging:
      Super easy if you've used other devices like a grigri where you need to open a pivoting plate to route the rope through the device and then close the plate to secure the rope in place.

      Clipping:
      Best way is to pre-rig it on the ground and then rack the Ohm on your harness like its a regular quickdraw or piece of pro. And then when you're at your first piece, just unclip from your harness and place it on the wall.

      Rope Angle:
      Definitely read the manual to make sure your belayer is aware of this. But the angle the rope makes will affect the amount of friction that is added to the system because of the Ohm. If you're standing directly under the Ohm and the climber takes a leader fall, the Ohm won't really add that much friction to the system. It'll add a little more than if a just a quickdraw was clipped. And if the belayer stands too far away from the wall and creates a really sharp angle in the rope, then there will be an increase and friction and make it harder for the climber to clip their next piece of pro.

      Lowering:
      I found that the Ohm really helps add some friction to the system and makes it safer for my girlfriend to lower me. I've experienced it before where a 115lb belayer is lowering me (180lbs) and they slip and I go for a quick lower until they catch me again. Not exactly the type of situation I want to ever be in, so that is where the Ohm reduces the chances of that, which is nice.

      My Dislikes:
      It does add enough friction to the system that pulling up rope while leading can be a little tougher sometimes and not exactly what you want while you're cruxing or getting pumped. This can normally be mitigated by having the belayer be able to walk back and forth paying close attention to the rope angle, but on certain climbs that isn't always an option (when a climb has a lowish angle ramp to the first bolt or piece of pro like at the Orangutan Wall in Maple Canyon).

      My other dislike is that this thing is fairly hefty weight wise. But I fully realize I'm being ultra nit-picky here.

      It works.

        I've been impressed. My son and I have been out with this a couple of times and it really does work. I've yet to take a super hard fall on lead, but i no longer lift him off the ground when he's trying to lower me. As long as the belayer stands a feet away from the wall, it adds enough friction to the system to keep him on the ground and in control. Very happy with it.

        Game changer!

          I weigh 175 pounds, my wife is 105. We have been hesitant to take any big lead falls and have been eagerly await Ing this device for months. We have used it for a few weeks now, So far all indoor, and have taken some pretty good falls on it. It is amazingly effective.

          This thing works great !!!!!

            I just got one of these and all I can say is WOW! This is a real game changer for me and my son given our big weight difference. I had a chance to test it this morning in our local gym, and it absolutely works as advertised. I go about 286 lbs and my belayer went about 170 lbs. Lead falls were a breeze for the both of us, and it also really helps during a take or while lowering. There was no interference during climbing and clipping. It is easy to use, and we even tested it by setting it up to feed backwards and it worked like a charm - seems pretty idiot-proof. Love it.

            Helps up your mental game

            • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

            Been Climbing with my girlfriend who is 70 lbs lighter than me, and rushed to get this ordered as soon as I could get my hands on one. It just works so well and before when I'd always be nervous about kicking her in the head or having her sucked up to hard on low cruxy moves, now it feels like having a 200lb seasoned dude giving me a good catch.

            On severely overhanging routes its a pain somewhat as it likes to engage a little too eagerly if your belayer isnt standing right at the base (its activated by the angle between belayer, first bolt, second bolt, and how much tension is on the rope, as you make the angle smaller than approx 150ish (a guess) the rope tension matters less and it can engage even just pulling loose slack) and cleaning on overhangs at the gym can be a pain especially if its a hard first bolt to downclimb from.

            But on vertical and slab its a beast, and even on overhangs its good for limit climbing as long as you keep the logistics of the bolt line and belayer position and other nuances in mind.