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  • Edelrid - Mega Jul Belay Device - Slate

Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device


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    21 Reviews


    The Mega Jul for mega-convenient belays.

    Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. The large steel loop on top attaches to anchors so the device can lock up without your brake hand—drink some water, enjoy the sights, or manage your rope while your second (or third) top-ropes to you. Edelrid also added a small eyelet so you can lower your top rope climbers directly from the anchors.

    • Stainless steel
    • Assisted braking thumb loop
    • Self-locking compatibility for anchor belays
    • Small eyelet
    • Item #ELR000K

    Tech Specs

    stainless steel
    Rope Diameter
    7.8 - 10.5 mm
    Claimed Weight
    2.3 oz
    Recommended Use
    sport, big wall, trad, multipitch

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Lots of promise, but not quite there

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    For general cragging or gym use with medium to fat ropes I highly recommend the Jul 2 over the mega jul. I used the mega jul as my primary device through the summer of 15 and spring of 2016. In theory it's great, but I found too many compromises in real world use. If you typically use a medium rope in the 9.4 to 9.6 range it's ok. Some downsides:

    * It only works best when paired with the correct carabiner profile. It truly does work best with Edelrid's Strike HMS biners BD vapor was too narrow to pinch skinny ropes enough. Petzl Attache locked and paid out slack well, but made for a jerky lower.

    * Listed rope range is beyond optimistic, 9.2-9.8 is more realistic. Paying out slack with a 10.2 gym rope is a bear, it does not perform well with fat ropes at all. Even using a 9.8 rope to lead belay there is quite a bit of drag if you need to pay out quickly for a high clip (much more than a grigri). On the other side of the spectrum, I took a fall using 8mm half ropes with only one rope loaded. My belayers hand was pulled into the device, it provided minimal assistance. An ATC or reverso with 2 biners provides much more braking power with half ropes.

    * Rappelling in "auto lock" mode is a joke. Even using a biner to open the device. I tried with different ropes on many occasions. There simply was no way to get a smooth rappel, herky jerky was the name of the game. I gave up and would just use it flipped to rappel, negating one of the selling points.

    * Guide mode sucks. Paired with a fully round stock biner (metolius element) there was still a lot of drag pulling rope through. A reverso, ATC guide, or kong gigi (my favorite) pull MUCH smoother and can let you just pull on the brake strand to take in slack. I had to pull up slack on the climber side so that I could pull through the brake strand with the megajul, negating the benefit of guide mode (having a hand free to eat, drink, check beta, etc.). Using the I beam style Edelrid strike biner drag in guide mode is even worse. You can bring a round biner for the rope and use the strike to attach the megajul to your master point, but make sure you hang the device off the narrow end of the biner so you don't scar the rope bearing surface.

    * Brake assist is limited. For normal length sport and trad lead falls it is more than enough (belayer will need to apply only minimal force, device does most of the work). When the fall forces go up in a longer fall it seems that the rope flattens more, the amount of assistance doesn't go up, belayer will have to still grip the rope firmly. It's not like a grigri in this respect.

    With these downsides the mega jul hasn't been out of my gear closet in months. I started using a jul 2 for cragging with medium size ropes and an ATC guide for my multi pitch/alpine routes. I also use a grigri for climbing with skinny singles.

    Good for top rope

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    Using a thicker rope (10.1 marathon pro), bd magnetron, and this belay device pretty much sucks for lead. It frequently locks making it impossible to give slack at critical times. Rappelling is also tricky. I'm just going to go back to my ATC guide.

    Awesome Belay Device

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    I love this belay device. I had a sketchy catch while lead belaying my friend with an ATC, so I decided to invest in something safer. The Mega Jul is a third of the price of a Gri Gri, and it is much smoother. I highly recommend this device for someone looking for a safer alternative to an ATC.

    Great belay device

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I bought this item cause I often belay heavy climbers while they lead (20 KG above my weight).
    I looked for an affordable locking device that will be versatile and light weight.
    It does the job great.
    I do need to add, that you need some practice while using it especially when you need to belay close without give lots of slack.

    It's easy to release the lock even on hard falls.
    I do feel much more confident now.

    Don't want to use anything else

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    My brother's review:

    This device paired well with the edelrid 8.9 mm swift dry climbing rope. It took a bit of getting use to for rappelling and top belaying but once I applied some repetition to its various belay settings I became very comfortable with it and don’t want to use anything else. It’s the lightest device I’ve ever used and the auto locking against the locking carabiner is amazing. It’s still not a hands free device but few belay devise are. The auto lock does add protection that you can’t otherwise find with an ATC or most standard belay devices. It always worked appropriately. Definitely watch the youtube videos on how to use it in all the settings and put it to practice in a safe setting. It also can’t be paired with just any locking carabiner so be sure to buy the correct equipment. I’d recommend this to any experienced climber. Not for novice use or general rappelling.

    Too much hassle

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    Taking climbing courses, one of my instructors was constantly talking about the benifits of the Mega Jul. "It can belay from the anchor! It can lock down on itself! It can tell you when to propose to your girlfriend! It opens beer bottles!" With such shining praise of the product, I thought I would have to get one to complete my setup, especially to say I had a better device than that simple, trashy ATC.
    When I first got it, I thought, "wow, this thing is shiny. It must work well! Wait, how do I use this thing?" Thus began my consternation with the Mega Jul. After a practice session off my balcony, watching the instruction videos multiple times, and some additional practice in the gym, I finally figured out how to properly use this device. However, that's not when the difficulties ended.
    Not only is it not quite straightforward to figure out how to best use the device, the device is somewhat finicky. Sure, it grips hard on the rope, but how do you get it to release? Sure, you got the device to release the rope, but how do you give a consistent lower speed to your climber? Sure, you opened the bottle, but how do you get those glass shards out of your beer? Tough questions, I am sure.
    The Mega Jul is a good device. It locks tight, it can belay from the anchor, and it is light. However, it has numerous downsides. If you are belaying a lead climber, an ATC Guide would be better, as it can release the rope more quickly, allowing you to play out slack for bolts, pro placement, or climbing. I actually use my ATC (gasp!) instead because it is more responsive than the Mega Jul. Additionally, since the Mega Jul locks down tight when it halts a fall, it makes me wonder how soft of a catch you could get with the device. Also, when the rope gets wet, the rope feeds poorly through the device, which makes for an inconsistent lower to the climber, causing difficulties when descending roofs.
    I wish I could say that I would give this to friends belaying me who are new to climbing. However, the device is so particular that I wouldn't trust a noob to not drop me with this thing. As such, it doesn't even have the same benefits as the Gri Gri.
    So what exactly do I use this device for? Gym climbing. Yes, that not-as-fun-as-the-real-thing workout which is gym climbing is the only time I prefer this device over my ATC. If I don't have to worry about wet rope, if there is no lead climbing, and if I may be using the device a lot, I use my Mega Jul. The only benefit of the Mega Jul over the ATC guide is that it is easier on my delicate brake hand. If I need to give one of my top-of-the-line belays, I just use my ATC, as the Mega Jul is just too much of a hassle to use.

    Wanted it to be great...

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    It's a sweet device that autolocks, but...

    -It gets way to hot! Like serious burns on your hands.
    -It is finicky and stubborn, especially if you let others use it for there first time. If you give this to a newbie for lead belay, expect to fight a tight rope.
    -Pretty slow on repel.

    -Did I mention it's safe...
    -It can be used in guide mode.
    -It looks cool!

    My long route belay device of choice

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    It takes some time to get familiar with MegaJul but it definitely worth it.

    Some tips and tricks:

    1. Watch official Edelrid video and read the instruction. Do it several times.

    2. Use Edelerid HMS Strike locker with MegaJul (and Jul2 as well).

    3. Do not rappel in ATC mode if you can miss the next station. It is almost impossible to ascend the rope with MegaJul in this mode (it will lock for an obvious reason).

    4. Do learn MegaJul rappelling in autoblock mode. Use Edelrid Pure or Petzl Spirit binner as a lever. It is smooth, fast, and safe... only after a proper training.

    5. It is better to use a glove with MegaJul on rappels.

    6. It works not that great with stiffer thicker ropes.

    Overall this is a great device for long trad and technical alpine routes. Very smooth when belaying your follower(s) from an anchor. Easy and safe lowering off. Safe and smooth (training needed! Steep learning curve) rappels. Easy to operate with both left and right hands.

    Bottom line. My belay device of choice on long routes.

    Better than Mammut Smart

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I also have the BD ATC Guide and Mammut Smart and at least the BD works great.
    Well, I wanted something with brake assist but with a smoother and more controllable lowering that Mammut Smart. After several in-depth reviews read online, I got the Edelrid Mega Jul.
    A couple of weeks later, I am happy with my purchase. The device still has some jittery action sometimes but it's more controllable than the Smart.
    There are some documented cases online when the wire snapped (not life threatening if you belay as you should) but I'm hoping this one will keep going strong.

    A Truly Impressive Device

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I've been using the Mega Jul consistently for a few months now, and at no point has it failed to impress me. It serves essentially every purpose one could have for a belay/rappel device, and without any of the issues that plague other devices.
    I've been keeping my ATC with me for a while as a backup, but at this point I've encountered basically every situation I could when climbing, and it has not fallen short in any way. The only thing I would recommend is to keep an extra keynose biner with you when rappelling, so that you can release the auto-lock (which works like a charm) more smoothly and easily.
    Bottom Line: Get one. This is the best individual piece of climbing gear I have purchased since my rope.


    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    In the past I've used an ATC, ATC Guide, and Grigri, and this is basically the best of those with none of the flaws. It's small, light, strong, braking-assisted, you can double rope rappel, and you can use it in guide mode. I've heard about people ripping off the thumb loop but I've put mine through hell and it shows no signs of wear. It takes very little time to get used to it, although you definitely wanna give it a few pitches before you belay your buddy on his super sick proj. Additionally, it is sensitive to what 'biner you use. I've found the BD gridlock or the Edelrid HMS carabiner to work well. All in all a very impressive device, especially given that its the first generation.

    Catches like GriGri, feeds like ATC

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    The Mega Jul is like an ATC that catches like a Grigri! It takes doubles, it cinches down on the rope in a fall, it's superlight, I've used it in my rope ascending system, the new-age skinnier ropes feed through with no problem. It takes 1st place for my belay device when in the mountains!

    Cons? Fine there are some... it's confusing to use for top belaying my follow. But they put a little picture on the device. I bring along my Reverso (b/c why not?) for top belaying and as a backup.

    thicker rope? I have an old 10.2 rope - but it still works, it just doesn't feel as smooth as a sub-10mm. A word of caution, an 8mm rope doesn't fully "lock" and will slip through like the mammut smart alpine (I've only tried this on a single 8mm standing on firm ground, maybe two 8mm in twin will still "lock").

    Aluminum carabiner? Yes, the device is steel, and yes, it leaves small notches on your carabiner with use. No, it doesn't saw through aluminum biners like butter. I think that getting the steel Edelrid biner to pair is overkill. I use the old Petzl Attache.

    I am extremely satisfied with this device and I think it's well suited for alpine climbing where functionality and weight are at a premium. If you're climbing at a gym or a frequent sport climber, I'd stick with the Grigri. If you like your device to 'slip a bit' so your sketchy cam placement doesn't pull, then stick with the ATC/Reverso.

    Assisted braking AND lightweight

    • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

    I technically gave this to my husband as a gift, but we've both used it. The features of this device can't be beat at this weight. It's so versatile...assisted breaking, easy enough to feed rope to a leader, don't need to carry a separate rappel device like you do with some assisted breaking belay devices. It gets 4 stars because it can take a little while to get used to and is far from foolproof (it wouldn't really work without it's specific biner, and even after 5 months we still have to think it through for a sec when we set up a rap with this thing), and it can be a little hard on the part of your thumb that loops through the plastic bit. BUT it's so incredibly versatile and light, and the price is right, so it's more than worth it!


    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    I found anything above a 9.8 to be nearly unusable because it locks up to easily when feeding to the leader. Ideal for alpine trad or projecting sport routs. No issues with durability so far. I would recommend using a smaller rounded locker to lower the autolock potential when feeding and lowering.

    Truly the BEST device out there

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Short Story:
    This is the belay device that all others try to be. Assisted auto-locking, lightweight, dual-rope compatible, durable.

    Long Story:
    I've used a ton of belay devices: ATC, ATC-XP, ATC Guide, GriGri 2, Mammut Smart Alpine, some others that I won't even mention.

    These device has never disappointed me. I've belayed leaders (trad and sport), top-ropers, belayed from the top, rapped (slab and freehanging). I've used thick old 10.2 ropes as well as even a 7.5mm tag-line (ssshhhhh don't tell!). The device has locked up FULLY every time*.

    I'll be honest here, it does take a bit of practice to get used to belaying with it, and I have for sure short-roped a few partners with this. The best advice I can give is to "anticipate" your climbers’ actions and stay a step ahead of them. Shouldn't we be doing that anyways?
    Another important part is the specific carabiner you use. Every belay device (that uses a ‘biner as part of the braking system) will behave differently as you change out different ‘biners. I use the Eldelrid HMS Strike Slider FG Locking Carabiner and I am very happy with the performance.

    GET THIS BELAY DEVICE, it will be the last one you ever need. Truly! Both because it’s awesome and the steel won’t wear out.

    *The only time I witness the device not lock up fully is on the 7.5mm tag line. Sometimes it would lock up fully, others it would just act as a normal tube-style. Seeing as 7.5mm is smaller than the certified diameter range, I'm still impressed.


    it's great when it works

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    i love the idea of this device but unfortunately it doesn't work that well. it is specifically designed for thin smooth ropes and if you are ever climbing with a friend who has an older or thicker rope you will have trouble feeding the rope and taking quickly. i use mega jul mostly for repels, it grips really well if i ever need to go hands free. but belaying a leader with it can be a huge pain. if you would like to climb with mega jul, make sure to have a standard ATC as well for back up.

    Hey iryna! How long did you try to use the Megajul for lead belay? I ask because I found the same problem at first, but I found that I eventually learned how to feed through smoothly on lead, no matter what rope. It does take some time, and a climber that will let you short-rope them for a couple weeks, but I found (personally) that it gets better!

    Hi Sarah. I did not use it for very long, I'd say I probably lead belayed with it 10 or 15 times. Mostly, because my fumbling with the rope did not inspire confidence in people I was climbing with. It was also a safety concern, so it made more sense to switch to a device I was more comfortable with. I haven't used it in awhile. I bet it makes more sense the more you use it. I might set up a practice lead belay to try it again, I dont think I would want to try to figure it out while lead belaying for real.

    First Use

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

    Was finally able to use one of these for the first time while climbing in Maple Canyon. One of the members of our group had one of him and I gave it a whirl. Pretty impressed after the first use and will be adding this to my arsenal of gear.

    So I only used this for one belay. And didn't need to catch my partner. He lead the route and I lowered him.

    But after that I played around the with the features for belaying from an anchor at the top of a route. And what I was liking the most about this is it has two ways to be used.

    The first is like other ATC's such as the Petzel Reverso or the BD ATC Guide where it is best to have the belay device above the belayer. This device has a second option for belaying when faced with those situations where the anchors may be below the belayer.

    Not going to lie, I'm pretty stoked for this feature.

    Jared D.

    Expert Gearhead

    800.409.4502 ext 4055

    Does anyone have a Kn rating on this device?