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Best of both worlds.
Camp USA's Dyon Carabiner combines the snag-free convenience of solid gates with the light appeal of wire gates so you can climb with the best of both options. Camp calls it a KeyWire gate with a SphereLock that also minimizes the play between the gate and nose. An I-Beam construction keeps the Dyon lightweight for alpine approaches.
- Climbing carabiner combines keylock nose with light wire gate
- Keylock nose prevents snagging while unclipping
- SphereLock closure minimizes play between gate and nose
- I-Beam construction keeps the carabiner strong and light
- Item #CMP005W
- Q & A
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Was initially hesitant to buy these since the helium’s are a popular clean nose choice which have been around for ages and with plenty of reviews, where as looks like I’m the first on here to review these. You can find some helpful reviews of the dyon online though which is what I did before buying.
Anyway, I have some camp photon wires and love the weight and feel so thought I’d try the dyons when it came to buying some clean nose carbs for cams and alpine draws (paired with mammut contact slings).
I have to say, they are fantastic! I love the feel of them and how narrow the nose is too. The caged/encloses wire type that most competition use (like the helium) make the nose quite wide, this isn’t really an issue, but more a preference thing. The Dyons nose design makes it a lot narrower and for me I really like that, combined with the narrow body means they take up little space on the harness but are a nice full size in your hand when using them. I don’t really like the super small carbs like the nano etc.
The low bulk of the dyon is also good for me as I rack Totem cams which take up more space on the harness than a normal cam because of its wide sling design, so again racking with dyons is a plus here to save space on the harness where you can. Gate has a nice pressure, slightly higher than my photons, but not a problem. I have been using them for about 4 months now and I highly recommend them. Gave them 5 stars because honestly I can’t fault them. Hope others find this helpful if they are considering them.