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CAMP USA Dyon Carabiner


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Dyon Carabiner

Camp USA's Dyon Carabiner combines the snag-free convenience of solid gates with the light appeal of wire gates so you can climb with the best of both options. Camp calls it a KeyWire gate with a SphereLock that also minimizes the play between the gate and nose. An I-Beam construction keeps the Dyon lightweight for alpine approaches.

  • Climbing carabiner combines keylock nose with light wire gate
  • Keylock nose prevents snagging while unclipping
  • SphereLock closure minimizes play between gate and nose
  • I-Beam construction keeps the carabiner strong and light
  • Item #CMP005W

7075 aluminum
Gate Type
SphereLock (keylock)
Major Axis Strength
Minor Axis Strength
Open Gate Strength
Gate Opening
100mm x 60mm
Claimed Weight
Recommended Use
Manufacturer Warranty
3 years limited

Tech Specs

What do you think about this product?


>Rating: 5

My go to snag-free nonlocker

I've put it through the wringer

I'm a big fan of these carabiners. They are what I exclusively use on my alpine draws and have some for gear racking too. I've actually tried 3 different snag-free designs (Dyons, Heliums, and Alpha Trad) and while all 3 are solid and I wouldn't hesitate to buy again I just really like the Dyons. The gate feel and motion is excellent, both fluid enough to easily clip but solid enough that you don't feel like a stiff breeze will open it up. The small nose has helped in the alpine with pitons. The large gate clearance and relative light weight are just icing on the cake. Do yourself a favor and get some of these bad boys.

>Rating: 5

Kinda want to keep these a secret

I've put it through the wringer

No one actually knows what's important to them when they start trad climbing. They bumble around with inefficient systems and gear until they learn the hard way what works and what doesn't. I haven't bee climbing for that long but I've definitely learned the what doesn't work. Racking biners getting stuck on your harness gear loops when you're pumped and run-out doesn't work. Trying to reorganize alpine slings while jammed in ring locks doesn't work. Realizing that the nose of your carabiner is too thick to fit into a piton while laybacking definitely Doesn't work! Camp dyons have smooth yet solidly resistant gates, pretty much the thinnest nose in the world, and are also incredibly light. The baskets are large enough to easily wrangle a clove hitch one handed, and fits 2 if necessary. They're also like 33 grams. They also come in orange which is great for differentiating against all your racking biners (also dyons) for your cams. Everyone that climbs with me agrees that they're the best biner for racking, draws, and slings. The only problem is if everyone starts getting dyons, I'll have to finally start marking all my gear!

>Rating: 5

Very impressed!

I've put it through the wringer

Was initially hesitant to buy these since the helium’s are a popular clean nose choice which have been around for ages and with plenty of reviews, where as looks like I’m the first on here to review these. You can find some helpful reviews of the dyon online though which is what I did before buying. Anyway, I have some camp photon wires and love the weight and feel so thought I’d try the dyons when it came to buying some clean nose carbs for cams and alpine draws (paired with mammut contact slings). I have to say, they are fantastic! I love the feel of them and how narrow the nose is too. The caged/encloses wire type that most competition use (like the helium) make the nose quite wide, this isn’t really an issue, but more a preference thing. The Dyons nose design makes it a lot narrower and for me I really like that, combined with the narrow body means they take up little space on the harness but are a nice full size in your hand when using them. I don’t really like the super small carbs like the nano etc. The low bulk of the dyon is also good for me as I rack Totem cams which take up more space on the harness than a normal cam because of its wide sling design, so again racking with dyons is a plus here to save space on the harness where you can. Gate has a nice pressure, slightly higher than my photons, but not a problem. I have been using them for about 4 months now and I highly recommend them. Gave them 5 stars because honestly I can’t fault them. Hope others find this helpful if they are considering them.

Hi, I am currently working on building a trad rack and can't decide between the camp photons and the dyon for my cams and alpine draws. Which do you recommend? Is one better in some situations and the other is better in other situations? Thanks!