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Most crampons might look like this five years from now.
- Lightweight stainless steel construction
- Unique horizontal monopoint with secondary front point
- Low-profile micro-adjust heel bail
- Front and rear dual-density ABS
- Item #BLD00ES
- Q & A
Sweet design, poor material
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I am enjoying these crampons. Some pros, some cons. Here are my two cents:
In snow/firm snow/neve mountaineering conditions, there's no difference from a traditional 12-point horizontal crampon (I've had the Grivel G12). In ice up to grade 3, I have experienced little difference as well. The BIG difference is on rock. I'm significantly more comfortable on rock in the Snaggletooth because of it's mono design. Be it 4th class or M5, these crampons perform a lot better. One point of contact with rock features = more secure than dealing with two like the G12.
These have a shorter front section than the Sabretooth or G12...probably done to shave weight. Same amount of points on each side under the forefoot, but over less of an area. This reduces security in 'french technique' on low-angle firm snow or ice. Not as bad as, but headed more towards the Petzl Dartwin and BD Stinger in this regard. I have had feet skate or shimmy a little in some terrain where I believe the G12 would have held.
The Con? Say what you will, but stainless steel is a bogus material for crampons, period. I am not worried about catastrophic failure, but simply rapid wear from climbing rock. Use these two times a year on snow on Rainier, and they'll never wear. Use them on a lot of alpine rock (which you should, you bought them for their rock performance) and you'll see heavy wear pretty quick. After maybe 10 proper days in the mountains with a decent amount of scrambling and climbing on rock, the main frontpoint has been chewed back a good bit. I have used Grivel G12, a different steel, in similar conditions and experienced maybe...20% of the wear? See for yourself...get a pair of BD stainless crampons next to another pair of regular chromolly steel ones. Find a rock with a sharp tip and try to etch your name into the metal of both. See what you find. Shame on BD for favoring a shinny, sexy appearance over function.
So? When these wear out, which they will soon, will I buy another? Maybe, because I really like how they work. Hopefully someone will come out with a similar design but use a proper material, so I won't have to.
So far so good!
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
These were what I was looking for! I can do it all from ice climbing to glacier travel. The true Alaskan crampon!
What is the size range for boots that these crampons will accommodate? I have the Nepal Evo boots in a 47, will these crampons fit? I know some crampons require a longer bone for boots over size 45, and I cant seem to find this information anywhere.
Hi Sam H.!
Thanks for reaching out to us with your questions!
Standard rule of thumb for most companies center bars is that they cut off from standard to long at size 12 US. So you would definitely need a longer bar for your boots.
Need more info/beta? Want help getting geared up for your next adventure? Feel free to reach out to me directly @ firstname.lastname@example.org
Concerned about the lack of a strap to the toe piece like on other models (Stinger)... Is it possible to get this toe piece, and what was the reasoning behind going without a backup safety toe strap? (without a proper fit or with enough torque these toe welts have popped off on people)
Great Question! So most other manufacturers realized long ago that the metal strap/eyelet for "securing" the crampons on with a strap was no longer useful. The strap around the ankle is more than adequate for ensuring that the crampon will stay on your foot if for some reason you pop out of the crampon(s).
Ideally the informed climber will take some time at home and dial in the fit for their crampons before they get out on route and I think that's what BD and other manufacturers have been aiming for with this design.
If you would like more info or to place an order for these feel free to reach out to me directly @ email@example.com.