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Most crampons might look like this five years from now.
- Lightweight stainless steel construction
- Unique horizontal monopoint with secondary front point
- Low-profile micro-adjust heel bail
- Front and rear dual-density ABS
- Item #BLD00ES
- Q & A
Sweet design, poor material
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
I am enjoying these crampons. Some pros, some cons. Here are my two cents:
In snow/firm snow/neve mountaineering conditions, there's no difference from a traditional 12-point horizontal crampon (I've had the Grivel G12). In ice up to grade 3, I have experienced little difference as well. The BIG difference is on rock. I'm significantly more comfortable on rock in the Snaggletooth because of it's mono design. Be it 4th class or M5, these crampons perform a lot better. One point of contact with rock features = more secure than dealing with two like the G12.
These have a shorter front section than the Sabretooth or G12...probably done to shave weight. Same amount of points on each side under the forefoot, but over less of an area. This reduces security in 'french technique' on low-angle firm snow or ice. Not as bad as, but headed more towards the Petzl Dartwin and BD Stinger in this regard. I have had feet skate or shimmy a little in some terrain where I believe the G12 would have held.
The Con? Say what you will, but stainless steel is a bogus material for crampons, period. I am not worried about catastrophic failure, but simply rapid wear from climbing rock. Use these two times a year on snow on Rainier, and they'll never wear. Use them on a lot of alpine rock (which you should, you bought them for their rock performance) and you'll see heavy wear pretty quick. After maybe 10 proper days in the mountains with a decent amount of scrambling and climbing on rock, the main frontpoint has been chewed back a good bit. I have used Grivel G12, a different steel, in similar conditions and experienced maybe...20% of the wear? See for yourself...get a pair of BD stainless crampons next to another pair of regular chromolly steel ones. Find a rock with a sharp tip and try to etch your name into the metal of both. See what you find. Shame on BD for favoring a shinny, sexy appearance over function.
So? When these wear out, which they will soon, will I buy another? Maybe, because I really like how they work. Hopefully someone will come out with a similar design but use a proper material, so I won't have to.
When someone says snaggletooth?
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
It is a crampon. It is also what I and others call a chick with screwed up teeth. Funny how this crampons tooth design resembles the gals I am talking about.
My previous review drew anger from someone. Oh well, the truth hurts some people. To think that when they came up with the name for this crampon and they didn't think out loud of what a snaggletooth is? Check the Urban Dictionary and you know the people at BD knew what they were naming it after.
I recently used this crampon climbing Rainier.. I used them on both the La Sportiva Trango Ice Cubes and the Baturas that I own. I finally went with the Baturas because of the sub zero temps we faced.
It is a crampon that would excel on the Liberty Ridge route. I just wanted to see how they would do on the DC route. Again, they are a crampon and they worked fine.
They aren't just a Sabretooth with a new front tooth design. They are a new crampon with a smaller front cage design altogether. I would say they are shorter by 3/4" of an inch and the new front wire fits way better than the old style that BD was using on their pro wire gate crampons when the strap went through the eyelet ring.
Certain routes with steeper pitches would benefit from this front tooth design, but, you can use them on less steep pitches as well. I had no problems with the crampons at all.
Is it the end all, beat all of crampons? It has it's strengths in the right conditions.
If I had to choose between these and the sabretooths? If I could get them for the same price? Yeah, I might go with these over the sabretooths. Overall.. I doubt there is really that big of a difference for general mountaineering.
LIke a redneck chick at a dive bar..
Do you know how to complement a redneck chick at a dive bar? Tell her .. 'Nice tooth'.
These crampons are like that redneck chick. They have that one nice big front tooth.
I thought they were going to be just the same as the sabretooth crampon with just a large tooth and the smaller one. Nope, they are a completely different redneck chick altogether.
Two buck teeth? Nope.. They are that chick with the giant tooth and the smaller incisor next to it.
I am super excited to see what she can do. Sorry.. We are talking about crampons.
I think Black Diamond executed an awesome crampon with this new design.
The front of the crampon is a smaller cage design than the Sabretooth. Meaning the front cage and spikes are all further forward than the Sabretooths. I would say by at least 3/4 of an inch. The front wire catch is much more contoured than the old style pro model with the eyelet strap on the Sabretooths I own.
So remember... Dive bar and the chick sitting there. 'Nice tooth'.
So far so good!
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
These were what I was looking for! I can do it all from ice climbing to glacier travel. The true Alaskan crampon!
What is the size range for boots that these crampons will accommodate? I have the Nepal Evo boots in a 47, will these crampons fit? I know some crampons require a longer bone for boots over size 45, and I cant seem to find this information anywhere.
Hi Sam H.!
Thanks for reaching out to us with your questions!
Standard rule of thumb for most companies center bars is that they cut off from standard to long at size 12 US. So you would definitely need a longer bar for your boots.
Need more info/beta? Want help getting geared up for your next adventure? Feel free to reach out to me directly @ firstname.lastname@example.org
Concerned about the lack of a strap to the toe piece like on other models (Stinger)... Is it possible to get this toe piece, and what was the reasoning behind going without a backup safety toe strap? (without a proper fit or with enough torque these toe welts have popped off on people)
Great Question! So most other manufacturers realized long ago that the metal strap/eyelet for "securing" the crampons on with a strap was no longer useful. The strap around the ankle is more than adequate for ensuring that the crampon will stay on your foot if for some reason you pop out of the crampon(s).
Ideally the informed climber will take some time at home and dial in the fit for their crampons before they get out on route and I think that's what BD and other manufacturers have been aiming for with this design.
If you would like more info or to place an order for these feel free to reach out to me directly @ email@example.com.