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Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX Mountaineering Boot - Men's

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    10 Reviews


    Mont Blanc Pro GTX Mountaineering Boot

    When you're gearing up for your next adventure into the frozen unknown, make sure you take along the Men's Mont Blanc Pro GTX Mountaineering Boot from Scarpa. This boot has everything you need to make sure your adventure doesn't end at a heli-pad. The boots start on the outside with 3mm Perwanger leather that is impregnated with HS12 silicone for extremely effective waterproofing. Inside of that, you'll find Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort linings for even more waterproofing and insulating warmth. Directly-injected polyurethane ribbing on the tongue provides stability and ensures even distribution of lace pressure to eliminate chafing and hot spots. Up around the ankle, an integrated double-gaiter ensures that snow, ice, and rocks stay where they should, under your feet. Pro-Fiber XT20 insoles provide plenty of support, even with a heavy pack and, speaking of support, a polyurethane insert in the midsole adds even more ability to carry heavy loads for long distances. An all-around rubber rand helps to protect both the boot and your foot from sharp rocks and ice, and makes sure that you can kick your crampons all day without worrying about the consequences to your boots. The Vibram Total Traction sole safeguards you against slippage, even on those exposed knife-edge ridges everyone loves so much. Because of the toe and heel welts, the Mont Blanc Pros are compatible with virtually every crampon system that isn't custom-made for a particular pair of boots.

    • Scarpa's most versatile alpine boot for snow, ice, and mixed climbs
    • Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort is waterproof, breathable, and warm
    • Suede Perwanger leather upper with integrated gaiter for durability
    • Sock-Fit designed to keep close to your skin
    • Pro-Fiber XT20 insoles balance heavyweight support with comfy cush
    • Vibram rubbe sole with automatic crampon compatibility
    • Item #SCR000S

    Tech Specs

    Upper Material
    3mm Perwanger leather, HS12 silicone waterproof impregnation
    Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort membrane
    Gore-Tex Insulated Comfort
    Removable Liner
    Pro-Fiber XT20 insole
    polyurethane insert
    Total Traction
    Crampon Compatibility
    hybrid, step-in, strap-on
    Claimed Weight
    [pair, size 42] 4 lbs .2 oz
    Recommended Use
    mountaineering, alpine & expedition
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Decreased quality from Scarpa

    • Familiarity: I returned this product before using it
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 39
    • Height: 5'5"
    • Weight: 115lbs

    I was dismayed to get these boots and see that they made a lot of changes from the Mont Blanc GTX (Which I have been wearing all day every day for the last 2 years) to try to make this boot lighter weight I guess. The tongue design was especially disappointing; both the materials and how the tongue is attached are just not as high quality as the older pair I have; many corners were cut. And I'm not even going to address the gaiter, because I can see they already got rid of that on their newest model of mont blancs. The gaiter combined with the poor tongue design make the ankle of this boot unnecessarily bulky while somehow also providing no real support. The lack of ankle support was disappointing. I will be returning these boots, I am sad to see that none of the older model mont blancs are left in my size. I can tell that these will not be warm enough for tree work in Alaska this winter. They also fit smaller than my old pair of Mont Blancs. Struggling to find a boot as robust as the older Mont Blanc gtx in a size 39 at this point, and I am about to give up on Scarpa---I ordered the rebel pros from another seller and returned those as well because the materials and construction of that boot also just wasn't meant for longevity in a rugged environment. I need the rubber rand for all-around foot protection, the very rigid sole, and the ankle support; I live in these boots all day every day!!!

    Wonderful Boot

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 43
    • Height: 5'7"
    • Weight: 140lbs

    Have had these boots for a half a year now and had a chance to put some decent mileage on them over the course of the winter hiking season. I really love them - they fit my feet like a glove. I'm generally an ultralite backpacker but there are obviously times when you need a real mountaineering boot. These make me re-think my ultralite ways. They snug in around my heal perfectly and though I'm not the biggest individual I don't feel the weight on my legs from hiking a full day in them. While my feet are pretty tough not a single blister or hot-spot in first 100 miles with these including lots of mixed dirt, mud, snow, ice on some decent steeps. Really love them. Tried lots of boots from lots of manufacturers before deciding on these. I ended up with a bigger size than expected but they're great. Good with thick mountaineering socks or thinner hiking socks. They snug down nicely. I wouldn't say they're warm enough for just standing around in very cold temps but good while moving. Integrated gator is kinda useless but doesn't really affect things either way. Was thinking of Phantom 6000 which I really liked as well but given I live in East I figure I'd get to use these for much more of the season. But as I said - if you're doing lots of ice climbing these probably wouldn't be warm enough. On the flip side - they'd be way too warm on anything at low elevation in summer.

    Good summer Alpine boot

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 44
    • Height: 6'1"
    • Weight: 172lbs

    This is a good boot for summer routes in the alps (mixed/snow/ice), and would likely do just as well in the Cascades, but for me is not supportive enough or warm enough to work as a winter ice climbing boot. I've also used it on modern mixed routes, where I had no complaints.

    The rest of this review is a comparison of the Mont Blanc Pro GTX (hereon simply Mont Blanc Pro) with the older Mont Blanc GTX. The latter is an entry level do-it-all boot from Scarpa, comparable to the La Sportiva Nepal Evo, both extremely popular boots with which people may have prior experience. Additionally, the Mont Blanc Pro appears to be displacing the Mont Blanc GTX in Scarpa's lineup, and the choice of name certainly suggests the Mont Blanc Pro is a "new and improved" version of its predecessor. This makes the comparison potentially informative for anybody considering a boot in this class (entry level "do-it-all" boot). I've used both the Mont Blanc GTX and the Mont Blanc Pro for around 18 months each ice and mixed climbing in the American Rockies, the lake superior region and alpine climbing in the Mont Blanc Massif in the summer/early fall, so I think I'm in a good position to provide useful feedback.

    The Mont Blanc Pro has less ankle support and a more flexible sole than the older Mont Blanc GTX. This update works well in a more mountaineering oriented application (read: long routes, potentially long approaches, rock climbing in boots, etc), but caused me significantly more calf fatigue when front pointing than I had experienced with its predecessor, to the point where it slightly impaired my ability to lead on ice. The increased sole flexibility may also result in a less secure crampon fit. It might be coincidence, but I had a crampon (BD Cyborg) pop off twice while using the Pros, something that never happened with the Mont Blanc GTX.

    Additionally, the Mont Blanc Pro seems less warm than the Mont Blanc GTX (which in turn is ever so slightly less insulated than the la sportiva nepal evo). Scarpa will tell you that the same amount of insulation is used in both their boots, but I suspect other design choices may have reduced the effective insulation of the Pros. For instance, whereas the Mont Blanc GTX used leather throughout the exterior of the boot, the Mont Blanc Pros have a hybrid leather/fabric exterior, which might not provide as much warmth. This seems especially likely in the tongue area where a tongue-boot interface made out of contiguous leather (mont blanc GTX) likely outperforms a tongue held in place laterally by thin elastic fabric (Mont Blanc Pro). The addition of the gaiter on the Mont Blanc Pro should make for a warmer boot, but does not seem good enough to compensate for other design changes (especially since you'll still be using a full length gaiter when it's really needed). My experience is subjective, and unfortunately I had few chances to climb in both boots in the same location when it was brutally cold both times. That said, based on a handful of instances, it seems to me I got uncomfortable in the Mont Blanc Pros in temperatures 10F warmer than what I could tolerate in the Mont Blanc GTX.

    It's hard to say, but I can give you the rules of thumb I'd operate by based on my own experiences, which include using these boots down the 0F (Yellowstone and Michigan UP) with and without toe warmers (more in a minute), and used the original MBs down the -10F (Michigan UP).

    For my part I'd happily crag in the MBP down to 20F, and begrudgingly crag in temps down to 10F if the alternative were a forced rest day, and be diligent about wiggling my toes, and careful not to over tighten the laces. Below 10F I'd put in toe warmers and not venture too far from the safety of the car, planning to call it a day as soon as the toe warmers wore out*. At below 0F it would be a forced rest day. With the original MB I'd drop all those ratings by 10F.

    I also have double boots available though (Spantiks). They're heavy (5lbs 1oz/pair) but supper warm. My feat turn into a swamp at above 10F, and I don't think they're designed for cragging in temps above 0F. Between the Spantiks and the MBP neither is really great for the 10F-20F range, so I'd compromise based on warmth/weight trade offs and use the MBP down to 15F before putting on the Spantiks. I'd stop cragging in the original MB in favor of Spantiks at 10F.

    Having a pair of double boots is a good idea if you crag somewhere cold (Canadian Rockies, Yellowstone Basin area, upper midwest or NE). While this is an added expense many people can't justify, if you can justify it and are looking to build a quiver of boots then the MBP may pair better with more modern double boots. I know both the G2 SM and the new Scarpa 6000 are lighter than the Spantik. In fact I can't tell the difference between the Scarpa 6000 and the MBP in terms of weight. Based on visual inspection both G2 SM and Scarpa 6000 seem to be less warm than the Spantik (this opinion will be controversial with some; my judgement is based on the observation that unlike the Spantik neither G2 SM nor Scarpa 6000 has any shell insulation and both have thinner soles than the Spantik). One of these newer double boots, paired with the MBP might therefore make for a good quiver, and elimiate that awkward 10-20F temperature gap.

    All of the above only applies to cragging situations, where approachs are relatively short or flat, where speed isn't a priority, and where I expect to be standing around a lot (belaying or whatever). For moderate summer alpine routes in the lower 48, Canadian Rockies, or Alps, use where days are long, belaying is infrequent, there's lots of movement, and speed is a priority, I might consider pushing the MBP down to 5-10F if I were 100% confident I wouldn't end up stuck mid route in temps below 0F. For the original mont blanc, once again drop 10F on those numbers.

    As it so happens, I also have the Phantom Techs, which are warmer and lighter (but less durable) than the MBP, relegating the MBP exclusively to summer use where their durability on dry approaches and on rock wins them some points.

    *be careful with the toe warmer strategy. Warmer packs need air to work, and they don't always have that when inside of a boot. Make sure you experiment with this ahead of time before relying on it. The MBP are relatively breathable boots and it can work but test it out in a safe situation just in case. You may need to expose to the warmer pack to air for a bit before putting it inside your boot or something like that. I have had less breathable boots where the toe warmer just doesn't warm up.

    Not waterproof on summit day

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 48
    • Height: 6'3"
    • Weight: 185lbs

    This is a great boot for grip, traction, has no heel lift, great lacing, virtually no break-in time, very sensitive to ground which makes it ideal for ice climbing. I knocked it down to three stars for the following reason: In climbs where the boot is exposed to snow for over 8 hours (typical of climbs), this boot will no longer be waterproof. I wore this boot brand new on Mt Rainier and every time I wore it over 8 hours in snow, I ended up ringing my woolen socks that were completely drenched with water in both shoes. This made for a very painful decent on summit day and I ended up with pretty bad blisters to the point I could barely walk. I complained to SCARPA but they were very non-cooperative and simply blamed it to my feet sweating. I have done climbing before and never known my feet to sweat to the point that I could ring woolen socks. Thank goodness for the generous warranty/return policy of backcountry that I dont have to deal with this boot anymore.

    I had the same issue in wet snow not wearing gaiters with the MBP. They got soaked. The boots had been used for two years by this point, usually in drier conditions or with gortex gaiters. This time I did not take the gaiters and it was warm/wet early summer alpine climbing. I had just rewaterproofed the boots (but hadn't been to diligent cleaning them before water proofing), so I was kind of shocked at how wet they got. Prior experiences using them in similar conditions with gortex gaiters had revealed no issues, which is strange, considering the boot is supposed to have a built in gortex sock. It's possible the boots gortex had degraded in the prior two years of use, although this seems unlikely.

    Fit Great Out of Box

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 43
    • Height: 5'8"
    • Weight: 200lbs

    Ive never used Scarpa's mountaineering boots, always had La Sportiva. The fit was actually very similar, Scarpa had some more room in the toes I felt. I broke them in on a 6 mi hike all on dirt. Gotta say my feet hurt but, what can you expect? These boots crave snow and ice not a hiking trail in the lower elevations.

    We got one day of ice climbing in them and I was thoroughly impressed. Super stable! They fit my Camp USA Blade Runner crampon perfect and ice climbing was super comfortable.

    After the vertical climbing was over we did some general mountaineering with crampons. Really light, and really easy to walk in. Could have worn them longer!

    We were in really wet heavy snow as it was June in CO. This meant that they did eventually soak through but, that was expected. Rubber boots are waterproof, these will eventually get wet and soak through, like I said this is expected.

    On my first day I got one small blister, also somewhat expected. After that though, when using them in Colorado, even with a wet sock no blisters what so ever, that was the most impressive part.

    I am anywhere from a 9-10 and I got these in a 43.0, perfect fit.

    As far as warmth goes. I get really cold feet so in the dead of winter, I would have to bump up to the Phantom Guide but, for Spring Assaults they were perfect!

    Thank you Andy Wickstrom for the sweet picture!

    Fit Great Out of Box

    Hi, I would like to ask what size did you wear in La Sportiva ?
    I've tried the Napel 39.5, but it was a little narrow on the toe for me. Want to know if the 39.5 of Scarpa will be a better fit. (The country I live have very few boots I can try). Thanks.

    Same question...I wear a 9.5 shoe and my La Sportiva Trango S Evo's are a 42.5 and a smidge tight especially at the end of a full day climbing/hiking. My Trango's were used a ton for Spring and Summer climbs in CO, but need a true winter mountaineering boot. In Salewa, 9's seem to work better...never tried Scarpa but am heartened to hear they fit like Sportiva with a bit more toe room.

    Fantastic in most every way

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: True to size

    The concept behind this book is amazing: still sole (but not too stiff), durable leather uppers with light insulation and a sock-like, form fitting, somewhat flexible ankle. Add to this roller hardware and a built-in gaiter and you've got a fantastic, light and COMFY alpine boot. It walks well, front points even better and still feels sensitive on rock.

    The fit seems typical for Scarpa: a little wider in the forefoot and medium in the heel. In the past I've had Scarpa mountain boots stretched in the width but these were great out of the box.

    How do they compare to the Triolet? I own both so I'd say if you're spending more time on snow/ice/cold go with the Mont Blanc. If more time on rock (with some snow, of course) then the Triolet.

    Having both, I sized the Triolets a little smaller for a close fit, but my feet get cold if I'm standing in snow all day. The Mont Blancs are sized for a thicker sock and the warmth didn't disappoint on early spring ice climbs. The Mont Blanc is a little stiffer, though the Triolet still climbs ice well for a light boot.

    Fantastic in most every way

    Surprise Surprise!!!!

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    • Fit: True to size

    I bought these boot in size 43.5. I wear 42 in Harrys, and 43 in ecco, and 42 in Nike. I ordered these in 43.5 and the fit was incredible. I have a fairly wide foot and have plenty of foot room left at the sides and toes.

    The heel locks in place very well.

    Crampon fit with Petzl Lynx

    Fit with Petzl Lynx closely aligns with Phantom 6000.

    Crampon fit with Petzl Lynx

    This can be improved upon. The right side of the photo (left side of the boot) has a bit more space than I'd like between the boot and bail. I did test the hold pretty thoroughly and this state and all seemed secure. Rather not risk it though :)

    That looks fine to me. Per Petzls instructions you should realign the bail so the flat front part is at the center of the welt. Personally I would set the bail one hole foreward on the left side of the crampon, then the bail probably would have better contact with the welt, and you will have a little less frontpoint protruding. Do you have any new impressions you would like to share about this boot? How is the warmth? I see you feel they are comfortable down to 20F, how do you feel they would perform any lower than that? I am considering these for my girlfriend, and would be used at temperatures ranging from 30F to 5F normally, and maybe in extreme cases down to -5F.

    Just received. Initial Impressions

    • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    • Fit: True to size

    I bought these boots to fill the gap between my Scarpa Maverick's and Phantom 6000's for cold, single day adventures on ice and mountaineering.

    Fit: I love the Scarpa fit. Nice roomy toe box. Slightly wider than La Sportiva. Really easy to lock the heel in place with the lacing system. RIBS tongue is super comfortable and a welcomed addition. Size 46 fit as expected. Ankle flex should be really nice for climbing. Very comfortable to hike in.

    Build: Seems very sturdy and durable. The "gaiter" is my only initial complaint. It doesn't "seal" off access to the gusseted tongue from below as well as I had hoped. Meaning stuff can come up from below and get stuck in there, possibly getting past the tongue and into the boot. I almost always wear a gaiter anyway, so not a huge deal, just a heads up. I would have given this boot 5 stars if the tongue and gaiter were better integrated. The gaiter clearly adds warmth. Sole is nice and stiff.

    Warmth: appears to be better insulted that I expected given what appeared to be lower volume from the original Mont Blanc. As soon as I can throw a Sub-Freezing day at these, I will (and update). Boot is toasty, yet comfy at room temperature which generally indicates a suitable breathable and insulted design.

    I have now hiked 10+ miles in on uneven terrain, rock scrambled/climbed in dry conditions, and used with crampons in ice and snow. I am extremely impressed. Great weight, great stability where you want it, flexibility where you need it. Fit is superb. Stays warm and cozy down to 20°F so far. I think I'd be fine a bit colder too. Climbs ice very well for its size and weight. Extremely happy with this boot for diversity needed for Northeast conditions where you need toughness, dryness, and warmth.

    So I have an extremely wide toe box and my feet are 4E width.
    People keep telling me that the Scarpa Mont Blancs are good for me, but I found that the La Sportiva Nepal Evo Gtx are wider than the Mont Blanc GTX Pros.
    Is there a difference in width between the two Mount Blanc models (Pro vs. Regular)? It's just weird that everyone has said that the Mont Blancs (Pros?) should be wider when the Nepals were actually wider.

    The pro is basically the regular but with Scarpa's new Sock-Fit innovation and a semi-gaiter. Sock-fit construction system is made to envelope the foot as a sock and make you feel one with your shoes. This system “embraces” the foot in a uniform way and gives an immediate comfort sensation.

    Looking at between this and the La Sportiva Baruntse. As much I'd hope to be on more trips that would favor a beefier/more insulated boot like the Baruntse (Rainer, Denali, etc) my guess is that won't happen. I am planning on doing Mt. Washington in February on the standard Lion's Head route. I have a set of the Trango S Evo's and Koflac Arctis Expe (about a 1/2 size too big) that I've used in CO, but need something more specific to winter mountaineering (so warmer than my Evos) and a better, snug fit than my Expe's.