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More comfort for the multi-pitches.
Climbing a single pitch in a pair of uncomfortable shoes is barely manageable as is; try climbing multi-pitches in the same pair. The amount of pain multiples at the top of each pitch. Instead, opt for something comfier like Boreal's Joker Plus Climbing Shoe. It wraps cushy EVA from your ankle to the bottom of your heel for a snug, secure fit, and it adds the shock absorption necessary for you to stay comfy whether you're climbing crack, traversing ledges, or standing upright while the leader hang-dogs through a single pitch.
For performance, the Joker Plus styles a flat profile—for comfort, obviously—and moderate asymmetry for a touch of aggression needed for cruxy pitches, whether they involve edging, smearing, or jamming. Boreal's Zenith rubber used on this shoe balances between reliable friction and long-lasting durability, because this is a pair of shoes you'll want to wear for seasons.
- Boreal's comfiest climbing shoe for multi-pitches and training
- Flat profile with moderate asymmetry for a touch of aggression
- Zenith Quattro rubber balances between traction and longevity
- Cushioned heel ensures a snug fit and shock absorption
- 3D mesh and PU Air Net lining assures long-lasting comfort
- Expect very little stretch out of this leather, microfiber upper
- Item #BRF0015
- Q & A
Let My Friend Tell You About These Shoes
- Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share
I purchased these as a Bday gift for a buddy of mine, and this is what he had to say about them.. " I purchased these shoes after falling in love with an earlier version of the Boreal Jokers, and needing a new pair. The original pair had a very comfortable heel (which is usually where It hurts first on me), A nice toe box, and reasonable grip for price and level of shoe. I usually do indoor bouldering - v4-v7
This new shoe design seems like more of the same, with an updated aesthetic. The overall feel of the shoe is very comfortable and I usually forget I'm wearing them between climbs, even during the break-in period. They keep their comfort throughout hours of climbing and have no clear pinching or rubbing areas. The Velcro works well for keeping them tight with no loss of grip after 20+ hours of use. The rubber leaves a little to be desired with grip being lost on some overhang routes, but that's to be expected with a shoe of this price. Edging is nice, and on most routes I feel planted despite the "okay" grip. I don't like the color scheme too much (personal opinion). Toe/heel hooks worked well.
This is a versatile shoe for anyone looking to get into climbing. I could see this shoe bought by a beginner wanting some "future proofing" with its approachable comfort and the ability to climb for hours/multiple pitches. Suggested Beginner-Intermediate
Still worth a try
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
So I waited about four months to post this review on the new joker plus. I climb in the gym 1 to 2 nights a week. I boulder V3-V6 mostly and climb 5.10 -5.11. I lean toward anything that is not overhung. I have been using the joker plus for almost five years going through a pair each year. At this point I'm lucky enough to just buy another pair on sale instead of bothering with resoles.
So the new design. I must say i was worried after reading the other posts. At first the fit definitely feels different. The shoe is much more form fitting through the entire foot. I wear mostly size 10 sneakers. I wore a 9.5 US in the old design. It would take at least a month to break them in to where they were not painful on my toes after a few hours of bouldering. From there I was golden. After reading how tight and painful the new ones were in the other reviews, I bought 10s this time. They were too big. I ordered the 9.5 again. They were tight but I expected that. I took them to the gym and they broke in after about 30 minutes. They feel great! I did hate the baggy heel of the old shoe. I have to use they shoes because they are the only shoes that don't absolutely destroy my achilles tendon. The new version is better. The shoe heel fits the same, but the baggy section below the heel strap is gone. Heel hooks, though I do that very rarely, are waaaay better. The way the strap is made now, I believe the shoe streches a bit better there. The old heel was complete rubber=no stretch. The three top straps are nice and help fine tune the fit. You can feel the shoes through your whole arch, which is very different compare to the old design. You can cinch the straps down all the way. If your foot is low enough volume you may have to use your finger to push a high spot on the strap through the ring. Once that is done you can cinch them all the way down. I think there is something to be said about the build quality on these shoes too. In a world where most shoes are touching $200 now, these are very well made for $100. On sale, the price is unbeatable.
In a nutshell if you liked these shoes in the old design, you should absolutely try the new ones out. Now that I have had some serious mileage in them, I think they are indeed better than the old version. With the easier break in they could be a 1/16" or two larger fit than before. If you wore these as baggy all day moderates you shouldn't even notice. If you climb harder routes in them, you may feel the difference. I'm relieved that I can continue to stick with the Joker Plus for many more seasons to come! These are still the most comfortable climbing shoes out there. Yes the mythos are awesome too, but I like a stiffer sole climbing shoe. In that arena these are the way to go.
If you can, get the former Joker Plus...
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
- Fit: True to size
- Size Bought: 9 uk
- Height: 5'8"
- Weight: 137lbs
I've being using Joker Plus for more than 4 years...and I think it is one of the best shoes ))) Having said that, the new one is not an improvement.
You can't tighten the velcros for more precision... and it is way less breathable.
product change...wrong direction
- Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
- Fit: True to size
- Size Bought: 8.5
- Height: 5'9"
- Weight: 160lbs
I bought these to replace my old Joker pluses (the old red version). I bought them specifically because they had a fit I like. The older model was non aggressive, had a loose heel cup and had lots of cushioning high in the heel where the shoe covered my achilles tendon. Various aggressive shoes, when worn for long periods of time, were giving me a tendonitis pain in the achilles region due to the tension of the rubber heel strap (that strap of rubber that runs from the midsole of the foot up and around the achilles tendon) pressing aggressively on my tendon for long periods of time (8+ pitch climbs). The new model has gone away from the very comfy heel set-up of the older model and replaced it with one of these achilles vice grips. The old red version had a generously padded heel that felt like a hammock made of bubble wrap. The new version feels like cheese cloth draped over a rusty bear trap. At least the padding in the new version can soak up some of the blood that will come from my ruptured achilles tendon. I can only speculate that Boreal changed the heel in response to multiple reviews saying that the shoe was lousy at heel hooking. Congratulations Boreal you have fixed that very inconsequential problem and ruined the entire shoe.
It is true that the older model does not heel hook as well as something more aggressive but that was not the point of this product. I thought this was supposed to be a more relaxed, less aggressive, wear all day shoe...which it was before the remodel. Now Boreal has taken the discomfort of a very aggressive shoe and paired it with the performance of an entry level shoe. At least when they used to be comfortable I could forgive the performance issues. I suppose I should rejoice knowing that I can now crush that single cruxy heel hook move late in the day...assuming I haven't amputated my feet before lunch.
Is this shoe sized for women? I've seen on other sites it is listed as women's. My normal shoe size is mens 9, what size would be best?