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Black Diamond ATC Guide


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    19 Reviews


    How to make the best ATC better.

    The ATC Guide Belay Device is already worthy of any climber's arsenal, but Black Diamond made it even better for alpinists and crag-stars alike. It still transcends the tube/auto-blocking category, allowing for a standard belay as well as belaying one or two climbers off anchors. Black Diamond upgraded it with machined windows for a lighter weight, and the larger auto-block release accepts smaller carabiners for a smoother and more dependable operation.

    • Auto-block and tube belay device
    • Machined window
    • Larger auto-block release
    • Item #BLD00HS

    Tech Specs

    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year
    Recommended Use
    Claimed Weight
    3.1 oz
    Rope Diameter
    7.7 - 11 mm
    tube, auto-blocking

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Light-weight and Strong

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    The ATC-Guide is the leader, they created the ATC, they created the Guide. This ATC device is light but is strong and can handle smaller ropes for smoother belays but still able to autoblock on the guide mode.

    A classic design with functionality

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I've owned a few iterations of a plaquette guide style belay device, and this one has become my favorite. My biggest gripe is that is doesn't accomodate smaller diameter ropes as well as the petzl reverso 2. I think this is due to the Petzl Reverso 2 having a deeper and steeper angled friction section in comparison to the BD ATC guide. But I have found that the BD outlasts the petzl, and it's high wear zones do not get as sharp as the petzl.

    thumbs up

    Excellent Device

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    Multifunctional perfection really. Personally used for belay and rappel situations for outdoor climbing. Feel is solid, lock is tight and Controlled and comfortable. Plus it looks great, can't complain there!

    The Belay Standard

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    This is a must have tool for any multi-pitch climber. Similar device to the Petzl Reverso, though in my opinion, the BD Guide ATC handles a variety of rope sizes better and feeds smoother in guide mode which keeps my elbows happy.

    The auto-blocking mode for belaying direct off the anchor or off your harness works great, and can also be used as a standard belay/rappel device in either high or low friction mode.

    The extra little hole in the front is to be able to release the auto-blocking mode, but this is a complicated maneuver and should only be done with a fair bit of experience and practice and should always be backed up.

    Wear, such as with any belay device can happen between the two tubes of the device on the bottom side and should always be checked for sharp edges.

    Big wall hero

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    This is my go to for any and all multi-pitch routes. The easiest to use, it clips straight to the anchor point and self locks. It's pretty light, given its solid construction and just as easy to use for rappells or belaying as the regular atc.

    Go to for ease of use and versatility

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    This thing has definitely been my go to through years of use. They are extremely durable and if you take care of it, it will definitely take care of you. It is extremely easy to use in guide mode and almost fail safe if is set up correctly. You can ascend with it in a pinch or to get to your immobilized partner half way up a pitch and belaying a second is easy as pie. As a guide I carry 2 on occasion, so I can set up a simple belay in guide mode for someone with little experience to be able to handle it, yet knowing I am safe, and to still be able to have one on me for belaying them up or for an emergency ascension. There are others on the market that do the same thing, but BD makes a top notch product that is easy to use and extremely functional. Weight isn't a huge issue between them, wearing gloves or bare handed, this is a dream to use. As far as ropes, I have used this in the gym with the 10+mm, I have a single 9.5mm Mammut Infinity Dry, as well as Mammut Twilight 7.5mm twins and it works exactly as it should with any of the diameters. Granted with the 7.5mm I almost always run a third hand autoblock just in case.

    Go to for ease of use and versatility

    Bomber Device

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    There's a reason it's the go to belay device. Very simple and effective it's not only easy to use but very easy to teach others on. The option of auto-locking in Guide mode makes this great for belaying followers on multi pitch and it works great as a progress capture in crevasse rescue. Can't speak highly enough of this device

    Solid device

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times

    Great device for multi-pitch climbing.
    More durable than the Petzl Reverso 4, better with thicker ropes (9.5-11.0 mm), and creates less friction for the belayer in auto-block mode.
    The Petzl Reverso 4 is an ounce lighter, but the durability of the Black Diamond led me to believe this will last for years to come.

    Keep it simple

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I love this device. I have about a dozen belay devices including a GriGri and almost every form the Black Diamond ATC has come in.

    The key to this piece is the additional friction funnel on the side, and the anchor loop on the other side. These features make this device awesome for multi-pitch projects. Most especially I like the funnel on the side. It adds a little more resistance, and that helps when you are belaying someone who has a little more mass than you. This is a double edged sword, if you belaying someone who is very light the added resistance may be a catch instead of a pro.

    The added resistance also makes this enjoyable for long rope canyoneering projects. The kind that use 60-80 meters of rope, an additional system to manage the friction is very welcome.

    Its light, its simple, and its Black Diamond. Bomber.

    My Favorite

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I love this belay device - even more than my GriGri2. It feeds really nice and has versatile use. When belaying from the top sometimes the auto block lays sideways but it can be redirected if it really is impeding use. I have 2 of these in my gear bag.

    Who Needs A Gri Gri

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    Despite the popularity of auto-locking and assisted belay devices, nothing can take the place of the classic ATC. Air Traffic Control has never been so easy and lightweight before. With the ATC Guide you don'y need to worry about rope diameter, it forces you to pay more attention to your climber, and is great for use while multi-pitching. So go ahead, save a few bucks, buy the ATC Guide instead of a Gri Gri or a Cinch, and take the extra money to buy your climbing partner something pretty. They'll give a better belay for it, guaranteed.

    What makes this better then the regular atc xp..