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  • La Sportiva - Otaki Climbing Shoe - Men's - Blue/Flame

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  • La Sportiva - Otaki Climbing Shoe - Men's - Blue/Flame

La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe - Men's


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    • Blue/Flame

    10 Reviews


    An aggressive all-arounder.

    The Men's Otaki Climbing Shoe is an updated version of La Sportiva's very versatile Katana, except with a downturn for a more aggressive performance on any route or problem. P3 technology applies a Permanent Power Platform that ensures the Otaki's downturn stays downturned. The S-Heel construction optimizes heel hooking and gives a snug fit, while Vibram's XS Edge sole sharpens the sides for ideal edging, slicing, and dicing. La Sportiva styled the Otaki's upper with laser-cut leather and microfiber reinforcements to reduce stretch. The LaspoFlex midsole isn't too soft nor too stiff; you could say it's just right.
    • P3 downturned performance
    • Laser-cut leather and microfiber upper
    • LaspoFlex midsole with medium stiffness
    • S-Heel construction
    • Vibram XS Edge sole
    • Item #LSP008V

    Tech Specs

    Upper Material
    leather, microfiber
    [front] Pacific
    1.1mm LaspoFlex
    Vibram XS Edge (4mm)
    aggressive downturn
    Claimed Weight
    7.7 oz
    Recommended Use
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Super cute shoe!!!!! I mean Awesome!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: Runs large
    • Size Bought: 39.5

    I'm not the best climber out there, but I do know that these are the best shoes out there!!! I guess that might be opinion based, but seriously these are amazing! These have definitely the most comfy shoes straight out of the box. Great edging. Soft and obviously grippy rubber. Nice heal. I went from loving my Miuras to loving the Solutions to now loving these! I don't think I will be going back to either of those actually. Just because these have been that amazing so far.

    For sizing, well there's no real "true to size" chart for climbing shoes. But I do think I wear mine semi small compared to some climbers. For comparison I wear:

    - 40.5 in Solutions

    - 40.5 in Miura VS

    - 39.5 in Otaki

    - 9.5 in Asics running shoes

    - 10 in Nike Free shoes

    Super cute shoe!!!!! I mean Awesome!

    An Advanced Shoe for Advanced Climbers

      On Behalf of customer Mark Lamendola:

      Men's shoe size is the length of the foot, not the shoe; e.g., a size 10 shoe is for a 10 inch foot and typically has an 11 inch sole. The Otaki seems to be sized correctly, but of course the (mostly) leather uppers must be broken in to adapt to the shape of your foot. The two specially-shaped hook/loop fastener straps help with this process and also keep the shoe reliably secured to your feet.

      The shoe is exceptional for edging, smearing, heel hooks, and toe hooks; all of this is predictable if you look at the shoe geometry. My biggest issue in climbing right now is balance. Some of the "balancey" problems I try to send are best solved with a shoe that is both very rigid yet sensitive in the toe area. Getting both attributes in the same shoe is not easy, but Sportiva did that in the Otaki. The key is in the materials and construction, and you pay for that. But the price is worth it.

      These are aggressive shoes, not "climb all day" ones so consider also owning Sportiva's Katanas (which I do) if you're planning to drill a huge number of problems in one session (e.g., for training). I broke these in for 15 minutes at a time for several days, then climbed 90 minutes with no discomfort.

      IMO, this shoe looks awesome. It is brightly colored and just plain beautiful. I've never really cared before how a climbing shoe looks, but when I have these on my feet I feel like I am really decked out.

      Some people may balk at the price of this shoe. My advice is to be precise with your footwork (this shoe will help) and after climbing spray inside with white vinegar (any decent spray bottle will work) and then let them air dry. My climbing shoes last a long time, so I don't mind investing in really good ones. In this case, I am confident I made an excellent investment.

      Great aggressive shoe for adv climber

        These La Sportiva climbing shoes have a very aggressive downturn. Not recommended for multi pitch unless your feet feel no pain ;) they fit pretty similar to other sportiva shoes maybe slightly smaller because of the downturn. I've used them outdoors now about five times I'll update the review in the next few months

        Good Shoe

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times
        • Fit: True to size
        • Size Bought: 38.5

        Disclaimer: I am a sport climber and my shoes are never what I would consider comfortable. They are sized for performance like ski boots, soccer cleats... or whatever.

        I bought these shoes because I like the smearing capability of the katana and the edging/toe-in power of muiras. After climbing two weeks on both steep 3D rock and some more vertical edgy terrain (~30 pitches total) I can say I am content with the shoes ability to smear and edge/toe-in.

        I bought these in the same size I have bought all sportivas in the past and they have been perfect since the first route I climbed in them.

        I find this shoe to be stiffer and more down turned than the katana which allows for easier edging/toeing, but softer and less downturned than the muira which allows better smearing. These modifications combine to make it what I think is one of the best all around shoes.

        Might replace my Miura VS

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times
        • Fit: Runs large
        • Size Bought: 41.5

        I've been a huge fan of the Miura VS the last year or so and just burned through my 2nd pair when the Otaki came out. The technical specs of these shoes looked very similar (same last, same 1.1mm P3 midsole, same 4mm XS edge rubber) so I gave them a try.

        Overall they are indeed very similar feeling shoes, with the Otaki's being slightly less asymmetrical and slightly wider in the toe box. What this equates to is a much more comfortable shoe, especially if you have a wider forefoot like me, with maybe a very small loss in power under the big toe, if any at all. Actually, I feel a bit more comfortable using the outside edge of the Otaki than the highly asymmetrical Miura VS which keeps me on the very point of the shoe 99% of the time.

        The new "S-Heel" technology is not a gimmick, it really is probably the most solid feeling heel cup of any shoe I've worn, even on a pair of shoes that are probably a half size too large for me (I sized the same as my Miura VS and they seem to run a bit large. But I compared them to the same size Miura VS in the store and they looked identical, so I think La Sportiva sizing may have changed in the Miura VS as well).

        I also like not having the 3rd velcro strap that the Miura VS has which hangs up in cracks and pockets and seems to be the first thing to wear out.

        The only real issue I had with the Otaki's so far was a "hot spot" on the back of my left heel which gave me a pretty bad blister. I taped that area up for the rest of the break-in period and it is much better now, but this is not an issue I've had with any other shoes before. I'm not sure if its the design of the Otaki or that I just got unlucky with this particular pair.

        Oh, one last thing... the Otaki "shoe-farts" more than any shoe I've worn, so if that sort of thing bothers you, look elsewhere haha.

        Might replace my Miura VS

        These shoes are excellent. I've got to add my two cents based on Kyle D's comment because I've had a very similar experience with these shoes. I have a wider forefoot as well. I must have tried on 10 different pairs before landing on the Otakis. The heel feels snug and grippy and the outside edges really let me dig into just the wall itself to set up an aggressive hook with the other foot.

        I currently have the exact same heel bite, except it's my right heel. I apply a climbing specific healing ointment to allow the hot spot to recover slightly before my next session. I've climbed in them about 4 times now and just keep the ointment on it during rest days. This sounds trivial, but when I'm at the gym, I make a conscious effort to be mindful of deliberately pulling up and out on the heel straps before removing the shoe and ensure that I keep an up/out pull on the heel straps when putting them on to minimize any rubbing of the shoe on the hot-spot between boulder problems which I feel, has mitigated the issue somewhat. Still a hot-spot none the less, hoping it will toughen up soon.

        The "shoe farts" Hahaha. 100% accurate.. More than any other shoe I've had. Based on the heel bite and the shoe farts, you would think I just bought a size too large, but I'm telling ya, I tried on the size smaller and it wasn't worth the discomfort for an "all-arounder (aggressive)" - which they are.

        To close - The hooks, smears and edges are sick. They're quickly becoming my weapon of choice.

        Love at First Smear

        • Familiarity: I've used it several times
        • Fit: Runs large
        • Size Bought: 44.5

        After trying a few larger sizes, I finally got my feet into the 44.5 in these (I wear a street shoe size 11).
        I was able to dial in the fit with help from the awesome customer service at Backcountry.

        I have no complaints whatsoever. The rubber is very sticky on smears and small chips. I can make contact with a tiny portion of my toe while flagging on a bouldering route and they don't budge. The heel, probably better suited to people with a lower volume foot or a protruding heel as opposed to a flatter (?) achilles area, is perfect for heel hooks. Every edge of these shoes is made to stick when you need to swap feet on tiny holds, smear, or go for high foot placements to set up for a big move or dyno.

        Another great feature is that the straps can be closed at a variety of angles, for a more precise fit. The liner is really comfortable, meaning you can size them down aggressively and still climb virtually pain-free. The break-in period was about two routes, or non-existent, compared to other shoes I've climbed in. When buying these, you want to go at least 2 to 2.5 sizes down from your street shoe size to get the maximum performance out of them. Overall a great shoe, I highly recommend them.

        Weird sizing - bad style for me

        • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
        • Fit: Runs large

        Leaving a warning: I wear a 44 in TC Pro's and had to size these all the way down to 42.5 to get them snug (after trying 44 and 43 too). I'm an 11 or 11.5 street shoe.

        My first impression was that the stiff, aggressive, and precise toe (more downturned than pictures look) seemed perfect. After climbing in them several times, I found myself not at all enjoying the lack of sensitivity. Once in the perfect spot these puppies will stick, but I had to place my feet totally by sight/memory. This had me climbing scared and not comfortable or confident.

        The solution to the Solution

        • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
        • Size Bought: 42

        Honestly I don't like to start a review about a product with comments about another product but wow these shoes are wildly similar to Solutions. Same P3 downturned shape. Same dimple under that forefoot to take up dead space. Same suction cup of a heel. Same solid outside edge on the smallest of things. I have the same issue of getting that aggressive toe out of pockets:) I found that the Otaki is different in that the shape is more straight. Others have mentioned that the fit is wider but I have narrow feet and even with the Otaki one size down from my street shoe its still pretty snug. The heel on the Otaki is awesome. I've never really liked the heel on my Solutions and the Otaki keeps your foot from twisting when you weight it. I also feel like the rubber is a little stickier on the Otaki heel. Another suggestion I can make is that the women's Otaki is slightly softer than the men's so less wieght is needed to deform the shoe. Additionally it's slightly narrower if you feel like the men's shoe might feel sloppy. It's also not pink so you'll feel less obvious wearing women's shoe. I am a 43-44 in street shoe and sized my Otaki's to 42 for comfort. La Sportiva will typically recommend sizing down 2 sizes for "proper" fit.

        Great edging shoe

          I wear a 44 in pythons, testa rosa, & muira. I found that 43 fit perfect. I can tell it will quickly become a favorite. I am looking forward to all the pitches I put in this shoe. Great design & fit once dialed in. I started by ordering a 44.5 & I was way off. It is also slightly wider towards the outside of the foot as compared to the other models mentioned which adds to the comfort & probably the discrepency in sizing. The inside edge of the shoe once dialed in feels perfect while allowing space on the outside for comfort. A++ in my book.