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Solution Guide Harness
- Climbing harness built specifically for trad
- Super Fabric provides durable abrasion resistance
- Fusion Comfort Technology lessens weight without inhibiting comfort
- Single waist buckle and elasticized leg loops for quick on-and-off
- Four pressure-molded gear loops and fifth gear loop for extras
- Item #BLD00Z6
- Q & A
Great harness for mp trad climbing
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
Material feels tough ... like tougher than backpack webbing. It's comfortable to sit in, almost as comfortable as my Sama (although I did notice it a few times on the inside of my thighs ... tsk tsk). Also, the gear loops are sewn into the bottom of the waist belt, so I feel them digging into my back sometimes. Leg loops are on the smaller side (cyclists beware), but I still fit in w goretex pants.
For those who autoblock from the leg loop... the elastic band and the webbing are kind of flimsy, so there isn't a strong "nook" for the autoblock to settle in. So the autoblock kind of rides up higher than I expected.
The haul loop is 0kN. It's not really a loop. It's a flat "plasticy" strap sewn flat against the harness. So it's really hard to clip it. Honestly, I'll just trail a rope from the 5th gear loop if it's all 0kN back there.
The front gear loops are indeed longer than the standard BD solution. I can fit a single rack #0.3-#3 and a few draws in one loop (so I can carry a double rack all up front!). But they don't hang far out from your clothes (they're pretty close to the body), so I often snag my shirt when trying to re-clip. The Petzl Hirundos has a longer front gear loop by an inch or so. I imagine the Adjama has bigger front loops too? Those seem a tad bit more accessible to clip to me, than BD's stiff short gear loops. shrugs. I love the 5th gear loop at the back! The back of my harness feels like a garage where I just toss gear.
The strap tucks away on these stiff holders (just like the haul "loop") that really keeps it out of the way and doesn't snag into your gear, like in other harnesses.
I am satisfied with this harness... although I (I'm a California trad climber - goes for multipitch free-climbing mostly)
Comfy, burly, do all trad harness
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
This rig takes the best features of a number of BD harnesses and combines them into one super comfortable, burly and featured trad harness.
Comfortable - Short of a wall harness this is the most comfortable harness in the BD line.
Gear Loops - This harness has more than enough storage capacity. The front loops are 25% bigger than the standard BD gear loops (same size front loops as a Chaos Harness) and it has the accessory gear loop on the back.
Burly - the fabric on exterior of the harness is by far the burliest fabric I've ever used on a BD harness. I've ruined plenty of harnesses in the desert and this one is 2 desert seasons in and still going strong.
The webbing running from the lower tie in point to the leg loops isn't stacked like the Solution which helps prevent the wear point that the Chaos & Solution harnesses had if you like to stick your leg in a nice #5 or #6 crack.
So go stuff your self in that OW/Chimney, bring that extra cam and enjoy your day in comfort.
Is the "fifth gear loop" the new haul loop? Given they didn't call out any specs for it I'm guessing it's not as burly as the real haul loop in the old Chaos (rated at 12Kn). Is the new "fifth gear loop" strong enough for a tag line at least? For a "Climbing harness built specifically for trad" this seems like an oversight unless I'm missing something...
I just got off the phone with Black Diamond to get some clarification from them. According to what they say the fifth gear loop is not rated for any impact, but can hold up to around 6/7 pounds on a tag line.
Hope that helps, but let me know if you have any other questions!