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For climbers who live on the wall.
The Black Diamond Chaos Harness blends lightweight functionality with long-lasting comfort so you can hit up difficult, multipitch routes that last all day. Its Kinetic Core Construction consists of a durable nylon shell, a breathable 3D AirMesh lining, Vectran strands that evenly distrubute your body's weight, and lightweight EVA foam inserts for added lumbar support that keeps you comfy on hanging belays. The Forged Speed Adjust buckle has a raised side rail that helps prevent abrasions against the webbing, an upturned baseplate that allows an easier lift for loosening, and a rear kick down on the top plate that eliminates any slippage while you climb.
The Chaos also features elasticized leg loops that softly secure your legs without the need of buckles, and you can either adjust or release the elastic rear riser for an ideal fit and optional drop-seat use. Four pressure-molded gear loops give you plenty of space for your cams, alpine draws, and whatever gear you need to make the ascent. And its haul loop is rated at 12 kN in order to ensure you can bring what you need to send the biggest, baddest routes out there.
- Kinetic Core Construction
- Forged Speed Adjust buckle
- Elasticized leg loops
- Adjustable, releasable elastic rear riser
- EVA foam inserts
- Four pressure-molded gear loops
- 12 kN-rated haul loop
- Item #BLD001J
What do you think about this product?
March 11, 2020
welded protection material begins to peels off in one use5
November 26, 2019
I WISH IT HAD A BIGGER GEAR LOOPS
Gear loops kind of small,,,, thats why i dont give it 5 stars,, apart of that it is a really nice,confortable, and all arround harness,, more focused to multipitch and trad climbing,,
May 8, 2019
GREAT AND CONFORTABLE HARNESS BUT...
Really nice and confortable Harness for trad climbing or stay a lot of time hanging on it,,, they run small,, i am a solid medium size (31 or 32) and i had to order a large one,, the Large Size fits me perfect,,, i wish it where adjustable in the legs loops but its ok,,, i only have a little issue : the gear loops are a litle bit smaller than my older BD HArness,,,u can feel that the space for gear is smaller,,,not big deal but i would rather the older gear loops of my older harness
September 24, 2018
I've used the harness both in the gym and for multi-pitch trad cragging and in the alpine. My list of gripes are: 1. In spite of being elastic, the leg loops are loose to the point of being slack. On occasion I rappel with the autoblock on my leg loop and the device on my belay loop, and that just isn't feasible/safe with this harness. 2. I can just barely squeeze my usual rack (single Camalots, nuts, 10-12 alpine draws, cordelette, various extras like knife and nut tool) on the gear loops, and there's no provision for overflow like an extra loop. 3. There are no ice clipper slots. I'll probably relegate the harness to gym use or glacier travel (although it would be nice to have clipper slots for pickets or screws...), but I'm not going to take it out for rock climbs again.
June 29, 2018
Best All Around Harness Ive Worn... Ever
Great all around harness. Perfect for sport, single pitch or light multi-pitch trad. Ive worn this harness 5 days a week for 3 years. Held up great. No broken gear loops and I carried a full double most days, no irregular wear you wouldnt expect from heavy use. Even with heavy use, the only reason I am replacing my old one is that I am just beginning to have wear spots in the protective fabric where the leg loops meet the belay loop, after 3 years. Super comfortable to hang in on belay, however it is not an all day 12 pitch big wall harness, (would need more gear loops and gets a little sore on the waist after a 3 hours belay... dont ask). All in all for everyday gym, sport, and light trad this is definitely the only harness I will use. I recommend you give it a ride.
January 25, 2018
The Best All-Around Harness
The Black Diamond Chaos harness is quite possibly one of the best all-around performance-based harnesses in the product line. There are harnesses that are cheaper, lighter, more comfortable, and have some better features, but the Chaos harness is simply the best combination of all of the aforementioned qualities. The Chaos is designed for Trad climbing, but I've found that it excels at every climbing discipline (sport, TR, etc.). The Chaos is extremely comfortable, due in part to the ergonomic hip design as well as the elastic leg loops; therefore, I have no problem wearing the harness around all day in the gym or crag. Others have also noted this, but the Chaos does not have ice clipper slots (as it is not intended for ice climbing) but the ice clippers come with an attachment that make them compatible with any harness. However, you can still wear it ice climbing so long as you are not leading on ice and you put the harness on before you don crampons. I wore it all day for three days in Ouray recently, and it was comfortable on top of several layers as well as under jackets, etc. Overall, this is a great harness, and it is well worth the extra $$$ for any serious climber who plans on being in their harness all day. Great product, BD.
December 2, 2017
Everything you want in a harness
Simple, comfy, light. Everything you want in a harness, nothing you don't.
September 8, 2017
Comfy on the Wall
There are a lot of awesome qualities to this harness! The wide and contoured waist belt helps to distribute weight evenly when hanging on the rope and provides the right amount of support. Reinforced gear loops keeps draws and carabiners nice and handy. The only downside is the lack of adjustment on the leg loops. When they are a snug, they provide an awesome fit and comfort on the wall.
March 22, 2017
I've been using this for 8 months and the only flaw is that after losing weight you'll need to buy a different size. I'm 5'7", 179 lbs with a 32" waist. I purchased a Large and when I started using it my thighs were a little bigger. Now that my thighs have slimmed down, when I take a fall and I'm hanging in the air, the leg loops don't keep the harness from sliding up into my lower ribcage making it pretty uncomfortable. I don't fault the harness for that, because they aren't adjustable leg loops and the elasticized loops worked great when it fit, so keep that in mind! Structurally it has held up great! I've been strictly gym climbing the past 8 months, 3-4 hour sessions a few times a week with no rips or tears or faulty functions.
February 13, 2017
So close, yet so far
I really wanted to like this harness. But I can't. I bought this since it seemed to be the lowest profile harness I could find: no leg loop buckles, minimal padding, etc. This has turned out, well, as advertised. But beyond that, I don't have much positive to say about this harness. The very first route I did in this left me with bruising on my hips in the shape of the waist belt for over a week. Granted it was a pretty heinous flared, bombay chimney to offwidth, but I've done similar stupid decisions with other harnesses without results like that. I really hoped it would break in quickly, which it has, but kind of alarmingly so. Despite being only a few months old, the structure feels pretty similar to my 2 month old aspect, and not a ton better than my 2 year old one. Except those are actually comfortable. Guess we'll see how that one plays out though. The face fabric is holding up great, just the quicker than expect softening that concerns me. Edit: Actually I take that back. The face fabric is holding up pretty well, but the abrasion resistant material? Well, that's coming off in small chunks in multiple places. Is this some sort of joke? Even broken in, it is incredibly uncomfortable to hang in. I even hate belaying an average sized person hangdogging on TR. The waist somehow manages to crush my hips, first rib, kidneys or all of the above, no matter how I position it. I have started referring to this as the BD Kidney crusher. That aside, the fit is weird. the leg loops are on the small side for the waist. I love the rigid gear loops and wish more companies did this. It feels like you can fit a lot more pieces without it turning into a crowded cluster vs soft loops. However, the loops are excessively justified towards the back on the smaller sizes. I am right between a small and medium - the medium mostly fits if it is completely tightened down, but if I am carrying a heavy rack, I'd like to be able to snug it up a little more. I have the aspect in a medium and this in a small. I don't mind the gear loops on the aspect (wouldn't want them further back but forward would be okay), but in the chaos, the rear loops feel almost directly behind me. I also don't like how the harness is pretty lopsided unless tightened as tight it will go, but I know that's how a lot of harnesses are so that's just me nitpicking. Gear loops - a flagship "trad harness" should be able to carry everything one would want on an average multipitch route. This cannot. The medium small gear loops make the "5th gear loop", as featured on some of the company's lower end harnesses, completely mandatory in my opinion. Yes, you can carry a gear sling, use all shoulder slings not alpine draws, not wear gloves, freeze your ass off at belays, get super dehydrated, break all of your toes from walking off in your climbing shoes, not carry a cordelette, etc. But I can also do that with a $60 sport weenie harness. And be more comfortable since my kidneys will actually be intact at the end of the day. This would be 3 stars if the cost to features ratio wasn't so dismal. Most of my complaints are fit related complaints but they are subjective and I realize that. Since many others seem to like the fit, I don't necessarily hold it against BD (minus the gear loop locations). All those complaints aside, I think it's a fairly "average" piece of gear. However, at this price point, it might be one of the most overpriced items of gear I unfortunately own. Edit 2: Harness lasted about 3/4 of a spring in the desert before the leg loop face fabric (not the load bearing structure, not yet anyways) was disintegrating and a gear loop broke. So all in all, fairly average durability. My assertion stands that this is, or rather was, the most overpriced piece of gear I have owned. Black diamond please offer the aspect with non adjustable leg loops. That is all.
December 15, 2016
Comfort at its finest.
Finally a harness I can sit in all day. Whether I a doing extended repel trips or a few pitches up the canyon this harness is as comfy as they come. I love the extra gear loop in the back and how light it is. I became converted enough that I purchased the female version for my girlfriend and she now understands my love for a comfy piece of equipment.
January 25, 2016
This is my 3rd Chaos harness and I've had all of the prior generations of it. The is the best one as far a fit, comfort, and durability. I've definitely put it through hell and back with it holding up excellently - even through the worst offwidths and chimneys. Comfortable to hang in on long multipitch climbs as well. The gear loops are a little small, but I've never had any issues with them even with the biggest trad racks. My only improvement would be to add a 5th gear loop in the back(like the Apsect has). I like to keep the 4 loops for gear and a small 5th loop would be great for those items you likely won't need mid-pitch(gloves, autoblock, extra layer, approach shoes, etc.). All in all, a great harness. I plan on sticking with this one when my current one needs replacing.
October 14, 2015
Solid, comfortable choice
The Black Diamond Chaos Harness is a very comfortable option for all purpose sport climbing. The leg holes are a fixed size (not adjustable) so that's one less thing to deal with when taking the harness on and off. I would consider my thighs of "normal" size (not sure the diameter), and the leg holes fit comfortably. Note that if you have enormous thighs for whatever reason, this could be a problem. The padding around the waist belt is enough to make it comfortable while hanging, but not overly bulky. Overall, the Chaos Harness is a great choice for folks interested in all round sport or trad climbing. If you either want the lightest harness possible or the biggest most padded comfortable beast, then look else where -- otherwise you won't go wrong with the Chaos.
July 23, 2015
I have used this on a few all day multipitches and it is just as comfortable as my previous harness the Petzl Adjama. I opted for this harness over the other BD harnesses because I mainly trad climb and I wanted larger front gear loops. The front gear loops are slightly larger than the other BD harnesses. I am not a fan of the non adjustable leg loops as I prefer to have my leg loops slightly looser. Either way, this is an excellent harness, but I am not sure it is worth the extra premium in price.
June 12, 2015
I am 6'1 and 79Lbs. I got the large. I got this harness when I began projecting routs all day and needed more comfort and less weight. PROS: 1. Very light, 2. Very comfortable, 3. Excellent build--I know it will last a long time. CONS: The leg loops are not adjustable. This will not affect 90% of the people buying this harness, but for the 10% who have big legs (like me) you will have to make a choice between the large (waist too big) and the medium (legs too small). I went with the large and even with the waist adjusted all the way in there is still just a little too much room.
June 12, 2015
Hey Chris! Great review, welcome to the Backcountry community!
March 13, 2015
Not durable, bad buckle, hard to fit
As far as I remeber I did not need a harness when I bought my Black Diamond Chaos harness. It was an emotional "oh gosh! It has so good reviews and 30% off today. I should try it against my cheap harness". Everybody knows this hook and still some of us are sometimes caught by this trick. My initial impression on this harness was positive: low profile, light, comfortable, big and convenient gear loops, strong haul loop. Anyway there were something we call "a spoon of tar in a honey jar" in Russia - step-in design and speed buckle. Speed buckle is something to fry a webbing (mine was worn off in about year and half). It is just bad - uncomfortable, hard to adjust, sometimes it sticks in the middle. Bad. A few words about step-in design. First, it is unsafe. Sometimes you need to put your harness on without moving your feet. Clearly impossible with step-in harnesses. OK, they are not for alpine, so this argument is not valid. Not a problem, I have another stronger argument - I feel like I am putting on underpants over my pants every time I put on a harness of this kind, a ridiculously foolish feeling. Also there are some other issues with this harness: * The Small size is not that small. There should be at least half size smaller harness. * It is very assymetric after tightening the buckle to the end position. * Gear loops attachment points break easily. In short. Pros: + Little bulk. + Comfy gear loops. + Strong haul loop. Cons: - Not durable. - Speed buckle. - Step-in desing. - Gear loops break esily. - No small size. I can recommend it only to those who: 1. Have at least 32" in theirs waist. 2. Can afford a new harness every year (stop here! This is a waste! Please, do not trash my planet!) Bottom line. Look for something better.
December 13, 2016
I had to post a comment here. After reading your review, I was floored. The double back buckle is quickly going the way of the Dodo and the manual transmission. Finding high quality harnesses without this feature is like finding a cell phone without a camera. With the Mammut click harnesses being a rare exception. I wish you the best of luck in your search for a quality sport harness that does not have speed buckles, is not a step through design, and is not an econo harness.
June 3, 2014
Black Diamond Chaos Harness
April 5, 2019
if i normlly wear 32 in pants like for example in prana or patagonia,, will the medium fit ok ?,, last year a got a BD MOMENTUM in size M and it was very small for me,,, very inconfortable,,i had to sent it back,,, will be the same wirh CAOS model ? thank u ¡
April 8, 2019
Hey Mauricio, The Momentum and the Chaos have the same sizing suggestions. You may want to consider going with the Large. If you would like then you can contact one of our gearheads to place an order for both sizes and return whichever doesn't work for free. If you have any other questions or need assistance with an existing order or placing an order, please feel free to contact us on Chat or call us at 1-800-409-4502. Thanks!
May 10, 2015
When will this be available in medium?
May 11, 2015
Hey Jeff, I would check back towards the end of May / early June. We should have more in by then.