The Voile Split Kit is the economical splitboard remedy for the do-it-yourself backcountry nut.
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Share your thoughts
Are those bindings slid onto the wrong tracks (front vs. back foot)? Yes. Figured that out shortly after.
Made in the USA! Both the hardware and my split that is. Voile continues to crank out amazing gear. As they say - Simple. Solid. Backcountry. Hard to argue with any of that. The kit was relatively easy to install, and though I had doubts my DIY would stay in one piece in ride mode, it has been out for half a season and held up great. Easy to put together in the field, and surprisingly quick transitions from up to down mode (2-3 minutes?). In my mind this is the best system out there. The slider plates plus standard bindings are a little heavy, and I may someday switch to a split-specific binding, but for now they do the job.
A couple of construction hints:
-Drill a very small pilot hole for each hole through the deck
-When drilling the countersink holes for the t-nuts, drill a small pilot hole from the top, flip the board and drill out the countersink, then flip over again and drill out the top hole to full size. This helps keep the larger bit aligned and makes the countersunk holes well centered.
-If you can, use a forstner bit to countersink the base-side holes rather than a paddle bit, provides more control.
-Cover all bare wood with marine epoxy while mounting hardware to keep moisture out
Voile instructions in the box are ok, but also found some great descriptions here:
Would also check out these videos from Voile prior to starting:
Sure, a factory split will be more "perfect" and "refined," but it's also going to cost more than your '91 Outback. If you want a way into the fresh backcountry goods, without breaking the bank, the Voile DIY is your ticket. Plus, you'll be rockin a one-of-a-kind set-up that'll make all those factory split sell-outs look like a bunch of generic, lazy suckers.
Like anything DIY, the more patient and clean you are the better it will come out - be careful with the wood paddle bit! My biggest complaint with this particular kit is the parts list. It calls for a 19/64 drill bit, which barely exists (just use a 5/16 and some epoxy) and an unnecessary ball pein hammer. Really look through the instructions to see what you'll need, and make sure you have everything before you get started, nothing worse than having to make multiples trip to the hardware store.
To seal the inside edges (the cut edges) I use Spar Urethane, then coat them with epoxy (sanded down for a nice straight, plastic-like edge)
I was going to purchase this but its the older kit isn't it ?
new one is 1100 ?
Is it compatible with Burton's (3 holes) bindings?
- Gender: Male
- Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
This kit has everything you need and the instructions are very good. It does take a lot of time and dedication to make sure your board turns out right. Slaying pow on a home made split is definitely worth it though! It is pretty nerve racking to take the saw to the board so it might be worth practicing on a very old board if you have one available(I didn't, I just went for it). This video is very helpful:
I've had the board split for two seasons now and everything is working great!
Hello first sorry for my english, i have a problem with my tail hook of the burton free bird. when i ride it the hook of the tail start to move and at the end its open. what can i do or i can send in garanty. thanks alot.
Hi. i have an old Burton motion '00. is it possible to use it as a splitboard?
Contact Burton directly, they'll be happy to answer that for you. I have an old Burton Frontier '00 and they confirmed it is good to go within 24 hours of me contacting them.
I bought my Split Decision kit from backcountry.com in fall 2010, but due to moving twice and doing a home reno since then, I didn't finish it and ride it until today. I read most reviews out there and watched as many online videos as I could find.
I wanted to do it right, and in the end I spent well over 50 hours on the conversion, not including reading, research and buying upgrade parts and tools. I consider myself pretty handy based on working on my own house and cars. I upgraded the kit's wood screws to T-nuts (McMaster.com), covered over the T-nut holes with P-Tex discs cut out of P-Tex sheet (Tognar.com) and glued using G/flex epoxy. Other than throwing away the wood screws, the kit was very well thought out and built, and everything fit together nicely. The instructions were out of order in some places, but I eventually figured them out. If I didn't do the T-nut upgrade, I think I could have down the conversion in about 5 hours.
I borrowed a friend's Makita portable table saw to cut my old Lamar beginner/intermediate board in half. This made it much easier than cutting with a circular saw. By far the hardest part of my conversion was drilling out the T-nut holes with a wood hole drill bit on a hand drill, because the drill bit dulled quickly from cutting the fiberglass and I had to regularly sharpen the bit with a file. Next time I will borrow a drill press and see if that might help minimize drill bit wear and bit walking. The drilling process took about 10 hours mostly because of the T-nut upgrade.
The second hardest challenge was blending the P-Tex discs with the base. This took another 10+ hours. I decided to glue P-Tex over the T-nuts so they won't get pulled off by the climbing skins. I cut out the P-Tex discs using a hollow punch (Ebay) and an arbor press (work). The P-Tex was much too hard/durable to file down with a hand file, metal scraper, the Stanley Surform tool, or even a belt sander. I eventually found that a rotary Dremel sanding drum worked best at medium speed. Next time I will just fill the T-nut wells with P-Tex repair rod using an iron.
I used the splitboard on a lift-serviced resort today as a shakeout. The binding plates were a snug fit when I first mounted them 12 months ago, but now they're a very tight fit. I wonder how I'll be able to slide them off in the backcountry to convert to climbing mode. The blocks and interlocking hooks do a great job of securing the split board together; the board felt much stiffer under foot than before the split. But I found the tip clips often unclipped themselves after riding through glades and bumps. The blocks also worked very well as elevators, as I was carving better than I ever have on packed snow and groomers.
Since we didn't get much snow in the northeast this year, I'll have to wait until next season to try the climbing skins (climbingskinsdirect.com).
Voile split kit is smart and stylish but and it's a big but, I'm a trades person and still found the instructions very hard to read ! They are very basic and under worded , if not for they videos online I'm not sure I'd have finished it on my own , also the philips head screws can be temperamental when tightening them , I cut my 2010 libtech banana magic it looks amazing and can't wait to make another !
so my buddy gave me a mint condition 167 Burton FL project and told me I could split it. I know the FL was the top of the line model about a decade ago. I don't know about the core and how well it will split, although if I remember, the FL project had some carbon stringers and a weird hybrid core. Any ideas on if this board will split well? Just found out it is from the year 2000.
Hey there, I am not exactly sure about that model/year but I have split many snowboards over the years, www.mnttechnologies.com, and can say that if it does have a strange hybrid core, it probably has foam... this just needs to be taken into consideration when cutting/drilling/etc as you need to adjust pressure for the softer foam... you also might have to get creative with some epoxies... check us out if you would rather have someone else split it...
99% certain I know the answers to both of these, just figure I'd make sure before buying. I bought an '09 Rossy Jones Experience. Perfectly fine to split, right (Its core is something called THCore: "
Triple Hybrid Core Carbon Kevlar® is 2 types of wood, Poplar and Steamed, laminated around a central Microcell beam and topped with Carbon and Kevlar® resulting in lower weight, balance, control, grip and explosive pop.")? Its wood, but it also has carbon and /kevlar/, the kevlar would be my concern.
Also, are the binding angle adjustable or once you split there set, I think I read that once you drill it, its set. But nobody seems to be complaining about it here, so maybe I'm just imagining things.
I have been splitting the Rossi experience for 4 years now. Its a great board to cut in half, i've never had any issues with the core of the board. Just be sure to use a good marine epoxy like West Systems G-flex epoxy and put 2-4 thin coats on the fresh cut sidewall. Sand those a bit and you're ready to mount the chinese hooks and beyond...
The newer Rossi Experience has a foam type strip down the center of the cut, which is kind of a bummer, where as those older models have straight wood. Still, the new "foam" sidewalls coated in G-flex have held up fine with everyday use.
Hey Jeremiah, I believe the board you have will have a center strip down the middle, like Neil talks about, but its not "foam" its actually sidewall material... it makes the split nice as you don't need to seal it... With this kit the bindings are in a fixed stance... The rotating stance system can be installed DIY, but requires some extra thought/work...
We can do it for you or hit us up for any other questions you might have!
Mail order splitboard service:
I covered the installation process earlier, but I want to give a report on how it actually works. Like I said, I converted one of the missus' boards (make that ex-missus now, but whatever) even though I am a two-plank man. We finally used it over last season and she loved it. Much, MUCH better than snowshoes with board on pack. For anything but the steepest terrain this is the way to go, just so much better and less effort than snowshoes (for the steepest you want crampons anyway). She could finally keep up with me without killing herself and really started to enjoy the BC. BC is just much more fun and enjoyable without a board on your back.
I have to admit I was very skeptical of the whole splitboard concept when I first heard of it (and even after I saw it), but Voile really has this nailed. The conversion is snappy and secure (though not as nice as AT, but what is?), it tours well, and it snowboards well enough that you knuckle draggers can put off learning to ski. This was all without Spark R&D bindings; from what I'm told those make it just as good as a regular board (keep in mind that non-Spark bindings get an extra 2 cm or so of lift off the board, something many boarders do not like). I'm sold enough on this that instead of telling my BC snowboard buddies to "get a job and learn to ski", I now tell them to "get a job and get a splitboard".
As a side note, I highly recommend getting the Voile ski crampons with it. Well, I recommend getting ski crampons with any BC setup because they're fantastic, but with only one metal edge on the splitboard skis it is even more important to have the super-edging capability of ski crampons while climbing on hard snow. Voile's ski crampons are great in this regard, too. I really can't say enough good about them.
super easy to put together. I just split my sick stick. opened up a whole new world of snowboarding
Ive got a 165" Antic by Ride, and was looking into splitting. Is it possible for this board?
Absolutely. You can split any board and install this kit. Just be sure to thoroughly research instructions...Youtube has a few excellent videos for cutting your board.
It's got a wood core so you're good to go.
I don't think any of the newer Burton boards with the 3 hole binding setup will work.