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La Sportiva Futura Climbing Shoe

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    4.5543

    43 Reviews

    Details

    A shoe for the modern climber.

    Attack cutting-edge sport routes with confidence born of experience and quality gear like the La Sportiva Futura Climbing Shoe. Built for technical, modern, acrobatic sequences on anything from overhangs to slippery slabs, the Futura helps you navigate even the most elusive projects. Your feet become formidable when combined with the right tech, but the Futura proves that doesn't mean you have to break your toes or cram them into an uncomfortable shoe to get your feet there.

    • Revolutionary No-Edge concept eliminates traditional sole edges for closer contact to rock and enhanced sensitivity
    • Hook-and-loop closure allows for a snug fit and easy-on, easy-off access during boulder sessions
    • Permanent Power Platform technology helps preserve down-turned shape to maintain overhang-climbing abilities and sole power throughout shoe life
    • Combination leather and synthetic leather upper encourages comfort and ventilation so your skin breathes during challenging sequences
    • Item #LSP0214

    Tech Specs

    Upper Material
    leather, synthetic leather
    Lining
    unlined
    Closure
    Fast Lacing System
    Rubber
    Vibram XS Grip2 (3mm)
    Last
    PD75
    Profile
    downturned
    Asymmetrical Curvature
    high
    Claimed Weight
    [single] 8 oz
    Recommended Use
    sport climbing, bouldering, overhung routes
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Its ok...

    • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share
    • Fit: Runs small
    • Size Bought: 9

    Just because it's more expensive climbing shoe, doesn't mean it will be better than a shoe that runs a lot less $. I have wide feet and this thing kills me! I cannot keep it on longer than a few climbs. I liked the color, aggressive arch and style though...that's pretty much it.

    Great climbing shoes

    • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share
    • Fit: True to size

    Fit: I know it's incredibly cheesy, but when I put on my new pair of La Sportiva Futuras, it really feels like the future. I was surprised by how smoothly my feet slid in, and more so that it still felt like a secure and close, but not tight, fit. (My other shoes are Testarossas, and at the same size, 39.5, the Futuras fit just a little looser, so if you want that really snug fit, go down a bit). Part of that is also probably due to the design of the velcro straps, versus having to adjust the fit of my shoes with laces. My only personal qualm was that the outer ankle of my right foot occasionally pinches when I put it on. Granted, I've only been wearing these for a week. All in all, it felt incredibly natural to have these shoes on... well, at least for climbing shoes.

    Climbing: I will sadly admit that all I really do is indoor bouldering (although I go about four days a week), so my experience is limited to that type of climbing. What I like about the Futuras are the same thing I like about the Testarossas: the sheer aggressiveness of the shoe. The emphasis on bringing power to your toe is something that I took a little getting used to when I first started wearing more aggressive shoes, but it's been helpful in forcing me to rely less on maximizing the surface area contact between my shoes and a hold and building confidence for making big, dynamic moves using smaller footholds and pockets. One definite plus over lace shoes, of course, is the increased ability I have to stabilize myself using the top of my foot, and combined with the extended rubber on the front-top portion of the shoe, I feel like I have more options when working on climbs where I'm really stretched out or run the risk of barn-dooring all over the place. The obvious downside is that, by being so aggressive, you can definitely feel the need to take off the shoe and readjust after a few climbs, and it's clearly overpowered or unnecessary for regular or more auto-pilot climbing. But, I think the fact that it's been pushing me to try more challenging climbs that require a lot of explosive power really outweighs those disadvantages.

    Love this shoe!

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: True to size

    I bought this shoe for overhung sport and boulder problems, and damn do these shoes perform. Some people have mentioned that their feet slip on holds, but so far I have not experienced this issue, even on greasy indoor foot jibs. I find that my feet always feel secure. The heel feels great in this shoe as well, making heel hooks feel very secure. This is probably the most comfortableclimbing shoe I have worn, even though I sized them tight. The stitching is of very high quality with no hot spots or stitching pricks (something I experienced with the Solutions). Overall, I would def. recommend this shoe if you want something that excels at overhung and technical climbing. For slabby stuff, look elsewhere (I prefer Miuras for slab). BTW, size these down, def smaller than whatever your Solution size is. Whenever I have fully stretched these out, I will update with an account of how much they wore in.

    Game changer, but not everyone's game

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: Runs large

    First, sizing:

    I'm a girl with a relatively wide forefoot and small heel, but with very tapered toes.

    I saw in several places to size them 1/2 size down from the Solutions. I did so and found that at first the Futura was insanely painful due to being narrow---but that it was just the length I needed to snug my heel all the way into the cup while just lightly curling my big toe. I then took a hot shower with the shoes on to stretch them horizontally, which got me about 1/3 size stretch. Now they are quite comfortable without being sloppy, and I think they will stretch a little more yet.

    If you don't size them tight enough, as other reviewers have said, you'll lose a lot of performance. You need to pick the size that has NO extra space along the line from big toe to heel. Unless you have very very wide feet, the shoe will stretch in width (seriously, try the hot shower) to accommodate you.

    Second, climbing in them:

    I read a lot of conflicting reports about these shoes before I bought them, which is one reason why I wanted to share my experience.

    If you like barefoot-like sensitive shoes and feeling the holds under your feet (I do), and you maybe tend to use your foot/calf muscles to grip your shoe onto a hold, the Futuras are a game changer. You have to focus on the corner of your big toe instead of your forefoot, and you have to be somewhat precise in placing your feet; but your reward will be feeling incredibly secure and connected to the rock, since you'll be able to feel that you're putting your weight directly on the hold and even on which feature of the hold, instead of on a rubber edge cantilevered on the hold. Plus the midsole does you one better than barefoot and connects the power of your whole foot to the toe (rather than relying on your toe muscle alone). For me, the No Edge definitely worked as advertised right out of the box, and I'm completely sold.

    If you prefer an edging shoe with a lot more support and/or your style is more to press a sharp edge or a stiff toe harder onto a hold to gain more security, the Futuras will probably not suit you. (But that doesn't mean you can't benefit from learning to climb Futura-style.)

    The shoes excel at vertical and overhanging climbing especially on weird footholds that edging shoes roll off of. I would find them suboptimal for climbs with a lot of narrow cracks or tiny pockets that you want to shove a sharp edge or pointy toe into. They are also too aggressively downturned to be good slab shoes. I also would never use these for crack climbing shoes.... I found that they toe and heel hooked well, though not as well as the Solutions, but that I enjoyed the increased sensitivity.

    Overall, I think the biggest issue I have with the Futuras is that they might cost me a lot of money: they're so amazing I just want to climb everything in them and wear them out faster while letting all the other expensive shoes I own gather dust...

    Heel cup and toe box.

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: True to size

    I have always been a Five ten guy for all the years I have been climbing but this is my first pair of Sportiva. As soon as I tried them on I feel in love! The feel cup fits a thousand times better then I ever expected and the toe box fills in nicely. After climbing in them for awhile I realize there is very minimal stretch if any. The no edge tech is very nice so that you can edge better then a traditional sole. The soles are still very stiff but still gives you the durability of a hard sole with the benefit of a down turn! BEST SHOE IVE HAD IN A LONG TIME!!!

    Heel cup and toe box.

    Light, agile, sticky

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 36

    This is my favorite shoe, and i find myself turning to it more and more

    1) extremely light, with much thinner soles (this could raise a durability question?). The result is a huge increase in sensitivity during climbing - you really feel the surface of the rock or the holds.

    2) The shoe has less volume than, for example, Scarpas Boostic or Instinct. This makes it easier to wedge your toes in tight spaces.

    3) the shoe is very flexible - this has pros and cons, but it should be mentioned.

    4) very agile - the flexible and thin sole makes it easy to smear and edge, while giving you the benefit of a turned down design

    5) pretty comfortable, all considered - not like a flat shoe, but better than most downturned due to increased flexibility



    Sizing: i am a US 6-6.5; European 36-36.5 and i own these in a 36. I also own: Sportiva mythos in a 35; Miuras in a 35.5 and solutions in a 36. Scarpa runs smaller and i have the boostic in a 37.

    Light, agile, sticky

    Absolutely Amazing

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: Runs large
    • Size Bought: 40.5

    If you have strong toes, and strong feet, then these things will literally glue themselves to anything you put them on. I don't care what anyone says, even ultra fine edging is not only possible, but easy in these.

    They also allow for some very interesting footwork. For higher level climbing (5.12 and up), foot switches can become tricky when needed in edged shoes, but these allow you to roll one off while rolling the other foot onto the hold simultaneously, which doesn't feel as natural, or as easy in an edged shoe, especially when your hand(s) are on super precarious holds to begin with.

    I honestly don't understand, or care why these preform so much better, but I recently got a pair of Pythons as knock around shoes, and the edge just feels too weird.

    Again, though, it takes time to get used to, and they aren't going to instantly give you grades or anything. But they do allow you to feel everything, and use your foot's/toes' strength, rather than relying on the rigidity of a shoe, as these are quite soft/sensitive. And because they're so sensitive, and it relies mostly on your foot/toes' rigidity, within a short amount of time you'll know 100% weather or not to trust a foot. If your foot pops, you probably knew if might and went for it anyway.

    I guess the best way of putting it is that it allows your footwork to evolve for the better, which brings your climbing to a higher level in its own way.

    Lastly, downsize the absolute crap out of them. If the shoe is so tight you're worried about breaking the straps, and you can just barely work it on, it's the right size. They will hurt for a time, but these stretch a LOT, and will lose a ton of performance if not sized correctly.

    Eventually they'll fit like a glove, be super comfortable, and still maintain all the performance.

    Durable!

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 45

    This was my first pair of aggressive shoes. They took a couple of weeks climbing to get used to just because I had no experience with an aggressive shoe. I can now wear them around the gym for a couple of hours without taking them off, literally 2-3 hours. I have climbed in these shoes for two years, mainly gym climbing but a lot of bouldering in yosemite valley. I just ordered my second pair because I finally wore through the toes. I climb in the gym 2-4 times a week and boulder in the valley 1-2 times a month. The strap for closing them is worn but it still is not torn and holds tight.
    I can say that I really didn't know what I was buying when I first got them nor could I really put all they had to offer to use. These shoes are incredible! The have so much edging power and the heel hooks stay right where I put them. I still don't toe hook a lot
    and I don't have anything to compare it to so I can't really comment on them.
    Although kind of spendy these shoes are worth it. Can't wait for my new pair to arrive!
    Street shoe 12.5-13
    Futuras 45
    TC Pros 46

    Loved them

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: Runs large
    • Size Bought: 43

    I've mostly used the Futura shoes in the gym so far, but have really enjoyed them. As some other reviewers have stated they run a bit large (normally wear a 43 but the 42s i ordered are a solid fit). I was originally concerned about the edgeless sole, but went for them based on other reviews to focus on my footwork. Definitely not a first shoe, but I have noticed a very solid grip with proper placement. The edgeless design has really surpassed my expectations and helped me focus on toe placement on some small nubs, and the smearing on blank surfaces isn't really any different than any other shoe I've used. The heel is solid and well anchored to the rest of the shoe. Of course it is an aggressive shoe and not well suited to long term wear, I normally wear in in short 15-20 minute bursts for bouldering, top-roping, and short sport routes. For a bouldering or other short climbing route I haven't really worn a shoe I've felt more confident in. I really felt that 10-15 hours of total wear were enough to break them in enough to be comfortable enough to wear for about a half hour tops( I guess I should add that extensive distance hiking has lead my feet to be pretty susceptible to pains and aches from most climbing shoes)

    Not My favorite

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I know a lot of people love these shoes but I haven't ever loved them. I feel like if you are not climbing steep stuff you are just going to slip off the wall with these on. I would rather go for the dragons, the muira's, or the solutions they are a way better shoe and perform way better than these. I have a very skinny foot and feel like these just can't get tight enough ever. I wouldn't recommend these ever, but do have friends that love them.

    Great for any type of climbing

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 44.0

    I originally got these shoes for overhung sport climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon and Big Cottonwood Canyon. What I didn't realize was that such an aggressive shoe would be versatile enough to climb big multipitch sport and trad days in. While it may not be ideal for those types of climbs, it does work surprisingly well as the rubber is softer than the similarly shaped Solution. Further, I was hesitant originally about the No-Edge technology, but even with it, edging in these is no problem and the many layers of rubber used allow for the durability of these shoes to be unlike anything I've ever seen before. I have blown holes in both shoes now and they have enough rubber underneath the first layer to continue climbing on them with no issue. Further, they have held up through constant use, 4-5 times a week, for about a year and a half. Great shoes!

    My favorite shoe!!!

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size
    • Size Bought: 36.0

    I am a 12 year old competitive rock climber, and I've worn 5+ styles of La Sportiva climbing shoes for over 4 years, but these are by far my favorite. I use these shoes for bouldering and rope climbing inside and outside. I found the Solution shoe similar, but when I put the Futura back on, I have never gone back. The first time I climbed in the Futura my friend's Mom (a very experienced climber) said foot work instantly got better. I have never loved to heel hook. I felt like my heel would pop off. These shoes helped me to heel hook more. When you place this shoe on a hold, it will stick! It is quite an aggressive shoe, but I love my shoes that way. After you've worn them for a while, you'll notice that they mold to your foot shape. They are literally a second skin. I love how I can feel the hold I'm on. I trust me feet much more with these shoes. I recommend these shoes to an intermediate to advanced climber.

    A new level of shoe

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
    • Fit: True to size

    After a while with the Nexxo, which I thought was my ultimate climbing shoe, I decided to try the Futura at the behest of friends who kept insisting it was the bees knees. I'd tried the shoe on before but was too intimidated at the thought of no edges to keep them. That was a mistake!



    This shoe blows away anything else I've ever climbed in. The Futuras are better than other downturned shoes to the same extent that other downturned shoes are compared to a flat-lasted shoe. It's really like a whole new category. In my first day in Futuras I tried a boulder problem that I had hurt my knee on the week before when I foot slipped off a bad hold. I had seen other people fall off the same hold the same way, so it seemed to fluster even the best footwork. In the Futuras it was trivial to stand on it! Even the tiniest edges get dominated by these!



    What's also crazy is how comfortable they are. Easily the most comfortable downturned shoes I've ever worn. I got these in the same size as I wear in Solutions (42.5) and the comfort is amazing. Most Sportivas are a little narrow for me, and at first this was true for the Futuras as well, but after a couple days in them they conform perfectly to my foot. I'd recommend the same size as you wear in Solutions or if you really want something super tight, a half size down. When I tried a half size up they actually were less comfortable because of the worse heel fit. You don't really need to size tightly though, just snuggly. This very close to the "ideal" downturned shoe: one that doesn't really force your toes to curl, but is more like dipping your toes in rubber and then letting you curl your toes naturally. For comparison, I can only barely wear the Miura VS, which has the same last; it seems the softness of this shoe makes the fit very forgiving.

    Pretty Good "Smedging" shoe

    • Familiarity: I've used it several times
    • Fit: True to size

    I've been wearing these shoes for over a month, sport climbing on the east coast. They have performed excellently in all arenas: from steep sloper-jugs, to techy slaps. if where you are climbing, requires a lot of smearing and twisting, these are the shoes. Because the "No-Edge" rands, you can really twist and roll around on your toes, without worrying about a foot pop. This allows for intuitive movement, and quick foot placements. However, if you require power edging, these shoes do not provide excellent support.



    The unlined, leather uppers are incredibly comfortable, and stretch a lot. The have a similar to the Miura VS's. Once they are broken in, they do not feel real aggressive. The glue La Sportiva uses is rather weak. Parts of the rand, and the toe patch are starting to separate from the shoe, as the rubber has a bulky fit on the shoe. I had the same problem with the Rubber splitting on from the heel.



    My other shoes

    La Sportiva Boulder X: 42.5 (street fit)

    La Sportiva Lace-up Katana: 39.5 (comfort/tight fit)

    La Sportiva Testarossa: 38.5 (tight fit)

    La Sportiva Solution: 38.5 (very tight fit)

    La Sportiva Futura: 38.5 (comfort/tight fit)



    I thought these broke in rather quickly; after a few pitches.

    are these shoes good for the gym

    Have you tried them on vertical technical...

    Have you tried them on vertical technical routes?

    Best Answer

    Hello again G!

    I have climbed in the Futura's on vertical technical routes. They work great on slab too. You'd think because they have no edge it'd be a problem. But the fact is, I trust them on slab and technical routes more than my Muiras (and those have a fantastic edge!).



    I think the best feedback I can give about the Futura's is, you can really feel the wall. You can feel every chip and as you learn to trust your Futura's you'll find that feeling makes a difference!



    Do you have a specific question in regards to the Futura's and a vertical technical route?

    I wear a 38 (5 UK - 6 USM - 7 USW) in Miura...

    I wear a 38 (5 UK - 6 USM - 7 USW) in Miura VS, is it the same size in Futura?

    Best Answer

    My two cents:

    I wear a 34.5 in Miuras and 35.0 in Futuras. My first pair of Futuras I burnt through were actually a 36 - those stretched out a bunch so I took the leap a downsized for my second pair. This seems to have been the right move. I think if you size your Futuras close to your Muira size you'll be okay.

    Thanks Elle. My Miuras stretched out, at least I feel the did, half a size. Not sure if because it is winter here and my feet shrunk :) or they really did stretch. La Sportiva site says the Miura should be wore smaller than the Futura. Yeah sorry, I was thinking out loud there... So according to your experience, I might want to keep the same size for both. Thanks a lot! G

    I am a central Texas bouldering(mostly)....

    I am a central Texas bouldering(mostly). I climb on mostly limestone. I know some shoes are better for granite and sandstone, how is this shoe on limestone? I tried on a miura vs a 45(11.5) I wear a 13 street. It was wide on me, sliped in the heal, I think I could of worn a 44.5, but I'm not sure if my toe might poke out. Have any suggestions on a good bouldering limestone shoe and fit?

    How does these run in size in comparison...

    How does these run in size in comparison to solutions?

    Best Answer

    Sizing is similar to the Solution. I wear a 42 in Solutions which is very tight but not painful when new, and breaks in to be relatively comfortable. A 42 in the Futura is actually barely painful when new, so they are slightly smaller at the same size. This is probably mostly from the heel which is noticeably lower volume. But the upper uses more leather than the Solution so you may want the extra initial tightness.

    how much do these stretch?

    how much do these stretch?

    Nick,

    Less than you would think. However, I personally go down a half size smaller on my slippers or velcro climbing shoes than I wear in lace up versions. Part of that is the fact that they will loosen up a little over time, and part of that is because I usually use slipper/velcros in situations where it is easy to take them on and off between attempts (e.g. bouldering, gym climbing, etc).

    Is this shoes can be resoled ?

    Is this shoes can be resoled ?

    anyone know if they stock these in 40.5?...

    anyone know if they stock these in 40.5? cause I'm not seeing an option for it

    How easy are these to get on your feet? I...

    How easy are these to get on your feet? I found a pretty good deal on a pair of size 39's and I'm not sure if I'll be able to fit my foot into them. I currently wear a size 41 1/2 Muira VS that has stretched to the point where my toes are flat inside. If the shoe is soft like the pythons I could probably get into a 39 but with the Miuras the 41's were cutting it close.

    Honestly Ryan, it sounds to me like your Miuras might be sized a bit too big. An aggressive shoe like those or like these Futuras, you really shouldn't be able to have flat toes inside, it kinda defeats the purpose of wearing an aggressive shoe. My rule of thumb has always been to size down to the very last size I can fit my feet into and then size up a half size for the pair that I purchase. With an aggressive shoe since there is so much curvature, it is never easy getting my feet in, even after the shoe stretches. If you can wear a pair of Muiras flat footed after the stretch, I would guess that you are getting them at least a full size too big, the 39's might still be too small but my guess is you are probably going to want to be somewhere in the middle.

    Been thinking about getting myself a pair...

    Been thinking about getting myself a pair of these since they dropped, but have been hesitant as I live in Australia and thus have no opportunity to try on a pair before ordering. I was hoping someone could give me some sizing advice. I currently wear a size 37.5 in the La Sportiva Python's, but am a 39 in Testarossa's and could definitely not go any tighter in either of these. I also know I am about a 38/38.5 in the Solutions. Does anyone know which of these the Futura's are closest to in fit?

    Best Answer

    I would try for the 38.5 and hope for the best. These have a similar fit , and are aggressive the solutions. BackCountry has a super good return policy, but I'd imagine the shipping is killer. The shoes will stretch a little bit- so you should factor that into your decision. Best of luck

    I'm wondering if anyone who has these or...

    I'm wondering if anyone who has these or the Speedsters have had the resoled? They don't look as if a typical resole is possible....

    Hi, I am trying to decide what size to buy...

    Hi, I am trying to decide what size to buy in these. i want then ridiculously tight as they are leather and will stretch.
    I wear a 40 in muira vcs
    Just bought 39 in solutions- which i think may be too tight, can only get them on with plastic bags on my feet, and i think it will be awhile before i can actually climb in them, with out silly plastic bags.
    I know these fit just a bit smaller than solutions so i am wondering if i should buy 38.5 or 39.
    Cheers

    Is there a cup to the toe like the solution?...

    Is there a cup to the toe like the solution? Or is it flat under the ball of the foot like the speedsters?

    hi! im interested in the La sportiva futura...

    hi!
    im interested in the La sportiva futura but i dont know which size i should use. should i go after my size in Solution or my size in Speedster?

    Best Answer

    I dont know about the Speedsters but try 1/2 size DOWN from the Solution.

    That is the suggestion I got from La Sportiva before they were released and a few people at my gym got the Futuras and are saying the same thing, 1/2 down from their Solutions is best.

    The Sportiva rep also had this to say " It fits pretty similarly to the Solution. From the materials, the Futura may stretch a little more than the Solution but only barely and probably hardly noticeable." but also said the Futura has a narrower heel so if you have a narrow heel you probably definitely want 1/2 size down. I'm guessing if you have a higher volume foot maybe you will not need to down size.

    I disagree with Arthur. These feel much more like solutions than speedsters. Speedsters bend your big toe a lot more when sized with a similar tightness. I'd say my big toe is bent even less in Futuras than solutions (at similar tightness) providing for a really comfortable fit.