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Description

Get fast, solid ice protection with the Black Diamond Express Ice Screws.

The Black Diamond Express Ice Screws' unique taper reduces ice fracturing and eases placements. A large crank knob takes less fine motor skills to use than a small one, so you can place the Express Ice Screw when you're pumped like crazy and really need it. Black Diamond uses a stainless steel hanger to eliminate rusting and decrease sun-induced melt-out. Two carabiner holes make sketchy hanging belays easy to set up.
  • Dual-clip in points make belays much easier to build
  • Tapered design for easier placements

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

DEON NORTJE

Member since 

These babies rule, especially when you are still intermediate and super tired after a long pitch. The crank knob is a real life saver in moments like this.

5 5

Ryan Hamilton

Member since 

I used these all season. I took a fall on one and it held. I also used them for some top rope anchors. The thread design is better that some others I've seen, but similar to most others. The hanger is great because you have 2 places to clip if needed. They go in as well as Grivel Helix and seem to take the same effort, but have a better hanger. Go heavy on 13 and 16cm, and get a few of the stubbies and long ones for bad ice and shallow placements.

5 5

MattAckley

Member since 
Groups:

These screws are like winning free guys on Pacman. Once you fire one in it feels like you've earned a second life! The best screws out there no doubt.

5 5

Arthur van der Pluym

Member since 

Great ice screw, never going ice climbing without them. the foldable crank makes all the difference
also used it to take a shunk of ice out of my pool weighing in at almost 600 lbs and no problem, made it a lot easier

BD Express screw
5 5

lettheguyd1438319

Member since 

I love these screws. They start easy and go in easy. The spinning knob is great. Just remember to flip it back in. By comparison, I hate the Laser Sonics. They don't bite easily and they don't turn easily once they bite. Check my review there to compare. The Turbos seem to have the same thread and tooth design and they turn just as easily, but without the knob. Great for a V-thread, but the knob on the Express is super fast and I love it when I'm climbing.

Stephen Koch

Member since 
Groups:
Posted on

Backcountry.com athlete Stephen Koch demonstrates how to place an ice screw while ice climbing.

www.stephenkoch.com

Scott

Member since 
Responded on

Mediocre video. Not a definitive source on ice screws or how and where to place them, so get some extra advice on it before going on a first lead on ice. When he was winding in the screw, there was no ice getting extruded through the center. It seems that it was placed into a hollow or pocket in the ice, and is just about useless in the event of a lead fall. A poorly placed screw is a bad placement, and of no use (even placing the belayer in harm's way).

What size? I'll probably only be in 4...

Justin Haug

Member since 
Posted on

What size? I'll probably only be in 4 person teams, on the temperate glaciers of the Pacific northwest. I was going to pick the 19cm just because I assume longer ensures a better "bite" but the 22cm might be overkill. Any advice for a newbie? Thanks!

Ryan Hamilton

Member since 
Best Answer Responded on

The rule about ice screws is that the base of the screw needs to be flush with the ice to be safe and effective. So if all you have is 22cm screws, you could be in trouble if you encounter shallow ice and can't protect it. I'd get a couple 19cm screws, 1 22cm and 1 13cm. It's pricey, but when it comes to ice you don't want to cut corners.

5 5

Courtney Dean

Member since 

Admittedly, I've only used this screw, but was super pleased with the sets. It's easy to start and the crank is manageable even with my goliath BD Guide gloves on. They have two hangers, which provides some options for anchoring and setting up a pulley.
haven't had any issues with dulling or weight yet, but the screws were well maintained by the time I got hold of them.

3 5

Dane Burns

Member since 

BD screws? Decent but there are better ones. These will do and many satisfied users. In side by side comparisons I have yet to be swayed. And I have used them a a lot.

icenadeau540031

Member since 
Responded on

dahhhhhh!! does that make sense to anyone???? clueless.

Runar Dankel

Member since 
Responded on

Makes sense to me. He likes the Grivel Helix better, and he have tried both a lot.

Ryan Hamilton

Member since 
Responded on

I've used both BD and Grivel Helix and prefer the BD Express. They seem to go in just as easy and I like the hanger better.

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