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Description

Get fast, solid ice protection with the Black Diamond Express Ice Screws.

The Black Diamond Express Ice Screws' unique taper reduces ice fracturing and eases placements. A large crank knob takes less fine motor skills to use than a small one, so you can place the Express Ice Screw when you're pumped like crazy and really need it. Black Diamond uses a stainless steel hanger to eliminate rusting and decrease sun-induced melt-out. Two carabiner holes make sketchy hanging belays easy to set up.

  • Dual-clip in points make belays much easier to build
  • Tapered design for easier placements

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Here's what others have to say...

4 5

Excellent screws

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Have a whole rack of them. They whistle right in, are lightweight, hold an edge well...really what more do you want?

5 5

These are amazing

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've tried a bunch of different screws when out with friends - I always end up wanting to use mine (these).

These are great at setting, and I can often get them to set in the first turn or two, where most others I need to get 3-5 before they are in.

They have a great spinner (but definitely make sure to close it when you are done!), and drive super easily and quickly, which is a huge relief when you are pumped silly.

The color coding is handy, and so are the dual attachment points. I only wish there was an 'ultralight' version like petzl makes for these.

5 5

Good screw

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Put in about 10 days on the sharp end this winter using these screws. I never fell on one or had to rest on one mid-climb, but I nevertheless felt confident in my placements in solid ice and could feel the screws "talking" back to me if the ice was crap or if there were air pockets.

5 5

A Lifesaver!

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I was leading a pitch a few weekends ago in Ouray after not having climbed much in the last year and I got psyched out above my second screw so I just fired in a nice, long 22cm screw and took a break for a little while until I could get my head wrapped around walking up this stepped out, picked out ladder to the top. Just another gomer/gumby ice climber lettin' ya'll know that these really are the bomb dot com ice screws out there!

A Lifesaver!
Whorehouse hose, Eureka, CO

Whorehouse hose, Eureka, CO

Responded on

Awesome picture Bowen!!!

I selected this image to feature on the Community Hub at the bottom of the Backcountry.com homepage! Congrats on being utterly GOATWORTHY !!

Express Ice screws then Pickets

Express Ice screws then Pickets

Big drop below (few thousand vert below what you see), exposed glacial ice then soft wet snow, combo of BD express ice screws and then MSR pickets for protection...

Responded on

Are you sure this picture wasn't taken on Mt. Gordon Lyon on a Saturday afternoon after a couple of brewskis at the Afterglow?

Responded on

How many ice screws would you carry with you on a trip like this? And which lengths would you take?

Responded on

for a running belay such as that, I would have 3-4 Ice Screws (usually 4), one - 22cm (for v-threads) and 3 - 13cm's

Are the 16cm screws expected to be back...

Are the 16cm screws expected to be back in stock any time soon? Thanks!

Responded on

We do have a order pending with our buddies down the street at BD but I honestly don't expect it in until probably around the first week of April.

4 5

Super fast. Super sharp

These screws are the workhorse on my rack--sure, I have a couple grivel screws that I absolutely love, and I think there's even a Petzl Laser Sonic kicking around--but for most of my placements, I'm sinking in BD Express screws.

I find that while they don't place as quickly as the Grivel screws, they rack much more conveniently on your harness, and the multiple clip-in points make them an ideal piece for anchors. They're solidly built, start fast in hard ice, and easy to see sizes (I just think of them as camalot sizes) Make sure to flip the grinder knob down, as having your rope catch on it can be disastrous.

5 5

Ice ice, baby

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

Just peachy for super fast screwing. The color-coded crank nobs were what sold me on them. They are ultra easy to place and only really need to be sharpened once every ice season. I wouldn't want to take a fall on them, but that goes for anything screwed into ice. It's very important to use protection.

Ice ice, baby
Responded on

Just remember to flip the grinder back down after you sink the screw...

5 5

Bombers

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I climb with a very mixed rack of different brands, and BD stands out like a happy thumb. Lighter than the grivels for sure. Plus I dig the double biner access! Bites, screws fast, does everything you look for in a screw!

5 5

Looking for a good screw?

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Look no further. I love these. They start way fast and the little knob on the hanger makes getting them in a breeze. I like these a lot because they rack nicely on your harness. They go on and off ice clippers very easily, which is crucial when you are getting pumped and every fumbled move only adds to your pump. These are just great screws

5 5

Fab ice screws

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

These are superb. Recommend highly! And buying through this store made for smooth shopping.

5 5

The best out there!

I use a full rack of these for ice climbing, and I always carry a couple of these for glacier travels. They are solid, easy to place, durable and when climbing with friends with other screws we always end up with the BDs. Only shortcomming is when placing in some concave "holes" where the relatively long and ridgid arm hits the surrounding ice before the screw is all in. Therfore I'd reccomend to bring one or two grivel 360s or similar in addition to the BDs.

5 5

They rule!!

These babies rule, especially when you are still intermediate and super tired after a long pitch. The crank knob is a real life saver in moments like this.

5 5

Great screws

I used these all season. I took a fall on one and it held. I also used them for some top rope anchors. The thread design is better that some others I've seen, but similar to most others. The hanger is great because you have 2 places to clip if needed. They go in as well as Grivel Helix and seem to take the same effort, but have a better hanger. Go heavy on 13 and 16cm, and get a few of the stubbies and long ones for bad ice and shallow placements.

5 5

Free guys

These screws are like winning free guys on Pacman. Once you fire one in it feels like you've earned a second life! The best screws out there no doubt.