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Description

Utility without those unnecessary bells and whistles.

How do you make the most popular belay device in the world even better? You give it an extra loop that lets you belay your second directly from the anchor, with auto-locking capability, and then you machine out every last gram of unneeded material and call it the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Loved by trad climbers, ice climbers, and alpinists alike, this belay device lets you belay two following climbers while you tie your shoes and eat a sandwich, without any risk to anyone's life. Get yourself an ATC Guide, and go climb something that gets you a few pitches off the ground. By the time you're back at the car, you'll wonder how you ever got by without it.

  • Works as an auto-locking device when you're belaying the second directly off the anchor
  • Can be used to belay two following climbers at the same time
  • Secondary loop lets you get the leverage needed to release and lower a fallen second
  • Deep V-notches make it easier to hold big lead falls
  • CNC-machined to eliminate every unneeded speck of weight
  • Works on ropes from a tiny 7.7mm up to a burly 11mm
  • Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Award

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Black Diamond ATC Guide

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Here's what others have to say...

5 5

The Coca Cola of belay devices

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Solidly built. Does everything you could ask of it. Has idiot-resistant (nothing is idiot proof) graphics to aid with use. Sure, there are plenty of other belay devices that will accomplish the same things (top rope belay, lead belay, belay from above, lower, rappel, etc), but I can't find any reason to switch from my trusty ATC Guide. I'm by no means a Black Diamond fanboy, either...I probably have a a 2:1 ratio of Petzl to Black Diamond gear in my kit.

I don't know that the extra friction in the ATC really matters that much, but I like knowing it's there when using skinny ropes.

5 5

Industry standard

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Seriously. Nothing more versatile. I've taken it sport climbing, multi pitch trad, alpine, ice climbing, and canyoneering. If you need one device to do it all, this is it. I like it better than the petzl equivalent as that product tends to get turned into the wall fairly easily due to the loop being rotated 90 degrees. There's a damn good reason this product is so popular. Lots of reasons, actually.

5 5

Classic

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

What can you say that hasn't already been said? This thing works perfectly for everything it's designed for.

5 5

Works perfect for everything

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Canyoneering, climbing, you name it. I love the way the rope feeds and how many options you have with this ATC. Just get it.

5 5

Just get one.

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

We all need a belay device and Black Diamond makes a quality product. So why not get this if your in need?

5 5

It is what it is...

Just writing this review to say the Dark Denim is NOT a blue color. The one I got was a forest green.

Belay, rap, or multipitch. just buy it.

Responded on

Yup, same thing here - the Dark Denim is actually a dark green, maybe teal. It is definitely not blue.

5 5

Simply the Best

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The Black Diamond ATC guide is THE ATC to get. It's the ATC that all other non-autolocking belay devices get compared to.

5 5

Solid ATC

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This is a great ATC. It's always been smooth for me, and it performs great for belaying and rappelling.

5 5

Great value.

  • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Awesome ATC. A much better value to a GriGri. Love it!

5 5

Best Value

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Along with the simplicity of this device comes its value. For $30 it seems to be a staple item for beginner and veteran racks alike. It is ideal for multipitch on an above belay, but works just as well in the gym. I even use it to rappel sometimes.

Best Value
3 5

Good belay device

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

This belay device has received some great reviews, and it is not a bad device, but i feel other devices on the market like the Petzl Reverso is better. I feel the ATC Guide is not very smooth at feeding rope, it feels like there is more drag on the rope than similar devices. My device is pretty new and probably not broken in yet, but still, the Reverso 4 is much much smoother out of the box. Also the ATC-G is heavier than many other devices, and it is not any cheaper, and I dont feel it outperforms the Reverso in any way. If you absolutely want a BD ATC, then this one is a good device, but you can get better. I would recommend looking at other devices, and the Reverso4 would be my top pick for a belay device with guide mode at the moment.

4 5

Looks great for a beginner!

  • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

This ATC guide is part of a beginner climbing set up, and I am looking forward to seeing it in action. With the added grip this ATC should make it easy to belay, even with a newbie in control. It also feels very solid and durable without weighting an extreme amount.

5 5

No complaints

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I've only been climbing for a couple years but this has been a great device to use as a beginner. It is easy to lock and holds my partner with ease. Repelling is no issue either. It does what it is supposed to do.

5 5

I love my ATC Guide

  • Gender: Male
  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This ATC guide is bomber. I've rapped on it and belayed on it and it's got the scratches to show it's being used. Apart from scratches it still functions fine since the scratches are on the outside from me dinging it.

It get's a bit warm when I rap on it (I use high friction mode), but that friction has to dissipate somewhere.

Really I can't give this device anymore praise. It's simple and it works. Exactly what you need when you're brain is worn out after a long climb!!

5 5

Wife loves it

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

#1 The Ruby color matches her harness
#2 Guide mode is a lifesaver on multi-pitch climbs
#3 It's a long proven design that is super easy to use

You won't go wrong with this belay device.

5 5

Great belaying in guide-mode

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Belaying from the top, working in guide-mode is incredibly easy. In this configuration it's also a whole lot easier to escape the belay in an emergency scenario (you're technically already out of it).

Quick piece of advice on lowering in guide-mode - the video BD published shows it to be pretty easy to simply pull on the narrow runner and tip the device. I found that not to be the case - jerky and difficult. This technique works much better if you re-direct a longer runner somewhere higher in the anchor, and clip that runner to your belay loop. Use your body weight to steadily tip the device and lower. Would recommend a friction backup on the brake in this setup as well.

Responded on

The issue is that you are trying to pull up vertically to release the clutching of the rope. This needs an incredible force (actually you have to pull the weight of the climber if you use physics and math !!). For the brake release you need to redirect at 45-60 degrees. This will make life easier.

Horizontal works but I would never attach this to my harness. If I fall I release the brake. Not a good idea.

5 5

Amazing, but heavy

  • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This device is awesome. I use it at the gym, the crag, top rope, sport, multipitch, and mixed climbing. It feeds smoothly, grabs the rope when you brake, and the v grooves let you hold a hangdogging climber even when you're pumped. My only complaint is that it is heavier then similar devices, but that is the price you pay for this kind of performance.

5 5

stoked

  • Familiarity: I've used it several times

I really like how versatile this is. I'm glad it was my first choice and I've never looked back.

The deep V notches in the brake add a little too much friction on rappels, but they're great for belaying. This isn't really a problem since the manual says you can run your rope out either direction when rapping. I guess it's more of a preference thing. I suppose there's a chance I might run my rope out the high friction side if I weighed more.

I love the extra ring, and am all together stoked on this piece of gear.