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Tenaya Oasi LV Climbing Shoe

$184.95

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  • 6.0
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  • 6.5
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  • 7.0
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  • 7.5
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  • 8.0
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  • White/Blue - Unavailable

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Oasi LV Climbing Shoe

The original Oasi is Tenaya's most aggressive climbing shoe. The Oasi LV Climbing Shoe maintains the same aggressive performance as the original, except Tenaya sized it with a lower volume for climbers with narrower feet. Unlike most aggressive climbing shoes, the Oasi's downturn stays downturned thanks to that blue strap which connects the heel to the arch. Also unique to the Oasi is the dual-strapped hook-and-loop closure that can adjust in length to accommodate wider or narrower feet; what that means for you is that you can expect a solid fit regardless of your foot's shape. The dual-layer midsole keeps this shoe stiff so you can find the pressure you need on the dime-sized edges that make overhung climbs so challenging. A shoe this great deserves bomber rubber, so Tenaya relied on Vibram's XS Grip to ensure the tacky traction you need for climbing your hardest.

  • Tenaya's most aggressive climbing shoe sized for lower volume feet
  • Sharp, asymmetric downturn ideal for overhung routes and problems
  • Vibram XS Grip sole assures tacky traction on limestone and granite
  • Double midsole maintains a sharp downturn for life
  • Synthetic upper reduces stretching for enhanced longevity
  • Item #TNY000A

Upper Material
microfiber, [tongue] Lycra
Lining
TXT-treated cotton
Closure
hook-and-loop, Draxtor PAT
Midsole
double, GI 1.8y TST 150
Rubber
Vibram XS Grip (3.5mm)
Profile
aggressive downturn
Asymmetrical Curvature
high
Claimed Weight
12oz
Recommended Use
bouldering, sport climbing

Tech Specs

What do you think about this product?

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>Rating: 5

Lovely

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer
Fit:
True to size

I downsized one whole size from my street shoe and the fit is just right. Best for bouldering or shorter sport climbs, these shoes are downturned and snug. Definitely not for all day comfort (I prefer my muiras for that). I love them for indoor and outdoor bouldering and sport. They edge decently but not as much as testarossas. Sensitive enough for slab and downturned enough for overhang. All around a great shoe!

>Rating: 4

Perfect for Plastic and Pockets!

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

If you’ve been following along, I’ve been a fairly solid devotee of Tenaya since the Masai were suggested to me by my awesome gearhead, Emily. I was pretty excited when these were announced since the Tenaya shoes seem to fit me fairly well in the toe area, but I really wanted something more aggressive than the Inti I’d been climbing in. After reaching out to Trango, I went with a size 40 (M7.5). For reference, I wear 41 in street shoes, M8.0 in Adidas Sambas and Nikes, 41 in Scarpa Crux approach shoes, 40.5 in TC Pros (though I can probably work a size 40 comfortably), 39.5 in Futuras, M8.0/40¾ in Masai, M8.0/40¾ in Inti, and M7.5/40 in Iati. I have not tried the Mundaka, Ra, or Tatanka (though I’m told they are like a lace-up Inti so maybe I’ll try those if I need a crack shoe). As expected, these fit great out of the box. It took some finagling to get the straps right. The key is to place the Draxtor logo part where you want in the Velcro area, then tighten the straps. That way it gets dialed in every time. I’™ll echo what Emily said as well – they take a few more seconds to pull on and off, but you get used to that. The neoprene is soft and breathable. The rubber is soft and sticky and great on dimes and slab. The arch is high and snug. My only complaint is that it is still slightly baggy in the heel (but nowhere near as baggy as the Iati were for me). For overhangs and edging and toe hooks these work great, but the minute bagginess compromises heel hooking for me. I’m sure it’s just my feet, and it’s only noticeable to me because I recently switched to So Ill Street LVs that feel custom-made. If I hadn’t tried on the Street LVs, I would have stuck with these until they disintegrated. I’ve climbed plastic and limestone pockets in these, and was able to keep them on even after jamming them into monos. I’ve gone through two pairs since the first pair de-lammed quickly, but they were immediately replaced because of warranty. All in all I’d say these are a solid shoe and the best low volume aggressive shoes from Tenaya that I’ve tried. Definitely more comfortable than La Sportivas, Five Tens, Butoras, and Scarpas (for me anyways). I think the Intis are still my favorite from Tenaya though because of their versatility, though I like the flex in this one’s sole. Don’™t use these on cracks unless you love pain and poor footwork. Lol. And I apologize for the vanity pic but it was the best one I had showing use outside.

If

Unrelated to the tenayas, I would love to hear what size you ended up getting in the LV streets!

>Rating: 5

Just demoed, but loved.

Familiarity:
I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I just demoed this but was highly impressed with my foot precision, especially when doing a foot match/switch. Haven't heal hooked them yet, though. I am a street shoe size 9.0 womens, sometimes a 8.5. The size 7 mens was just a tad big for me, so I would buy the 6.5 mens. Really like the fit straps, as well. It's a little slow to adjust for the on off, but does give you a perfectly dialed fit.

>Rating: 5

This shoe is magic

This is by far the best aggressive shoe I’ve owned. I have a narrow, long, high arched foot and have always had a hard time with aggressive shoes. I wear a women’s 10 in my street shoe and ended up deciding on the 7.5. I really like to downsize my shoes, and these fit like a glove! I onsighted a 5.11b outside the very first time I wore them! No break in needed, they are super versatile with the closure system... wow these are great. I’m in love!

>Rating: 5

One shoe to rule them all!

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

Whoa... These shoes are AMAZING. I have only ever climbed in Tenayas because the whole brand is vegan, and years ago they were much harder to acquire in the United States, but now luckily they are much more accessible! I bought the Oasi LV to take over for my Tenaya Inti outdoor shoes specifically for a trip to the Red in Kentucky. I climbed on them twice in the gym before taking them outside just to be sure they'd feel ok, but from the very first step onto (plastic) rock, they felt perfect. No breaking in necessary! The Oasi LV fits my foot better than any other climbing shoe I have worn. They are snug but not too tight and not baggy anywhere. The heel stays put through all types of terrain. I wear the Oasi LV in a men's 8.5 (women's 9.5) which is also my street shoe size. For comparison, in the Inti I wear a men's 10 (women's 11) and in the Tanta (which is a harder-soled non-aggressive shoe) I wear a men's 9 (women's 10) though those ones are a touch too big... and only used as my gym shoe. I do not wear my climbing shoes really tight after developing extensor tendinitis from overly tight climbing shoes. My shoes are also not super loose, but I find that happy place in the middle where I get performance without pain :) The Oasi LV is a perfect shoe for me as a sport climber and they give me confidence to edge on the tiniest chips and smear on the slipperiest granite. I am so so so happy Tenaya makes a low volume version of an aggressive shoe because it is exactly what I have been waiting for!!!

Whoa...

Thank you for your awesome review!

>Rating: 5

So wonderful

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I love Tenayas. I never tried the original Oasi but I generally prefer "low volume" shoe models and I jumped on these when they came out. I've owned a few pairs of Tarifas, which I also LOVE, but I wanted a non-lace up shoe. I wore these one time and then they were broken in. They fit my foot as if they were custom molded to fit - no gaps or dead space and no tight pinching areas. I wear them for pretty much everything. I brought them on a recent trip to Potrero Chico and they did well on everything from cracks to slabs to tiny edges and pockets and overhangs and I wore them on multipitches with minimal discomfort. I couldn't ask for anything more in a climbing shoe. I wear women street shoe size 8.5 to 9 (more often a 9) and I own these in [men's] size 6 which is a women's 7, euro size 38. I'm not into downsizing for performance, I think Tenayas just run large. This gives me a perfect snug fit, no pain, still able to easily get the shoes on and off. If you're not used to wearing aggressive shoes, however, you may not need or want to down size this much.

Hi. so I've always been climbing on tarifas but now I'm looking to switch to something with velcro. Would you say they have the same sizing?

>Rating:

How do these US sizes correlate to Tenaya's Euro sizing? I need a 36 1/4 or 36 3/4.

>Rating:

Is the number sizing for this shoe in women’s or men’s sizing?

Hi Jazlynn, These are in men's sizes.