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SRAM G2 RS (A1) Disc Brake

Temporarily Out Of Stock

Don't get too bummed. This item is on the way and will be available for purchase as soon as it rolls into the warehouse.

Can't wait? Consider one of the other Mountain Bike Brakes we have in stock.

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G2 RS (A1) Disc Brake

With a design based on SRAM's gravity-oriented Code brakes, the G2's offer "mini-Code" power in a trimmed-down package, making them a perfect option for trail riders seeking the power of a 4-piston brake without the extra weight. These G2 RS brakes are the mid-level model, featuring SRAM's SwingLink lever design that acts as a type of cam, magnifying the force of your fingers so you get maximum power and modulation without needing a death grip on the levers to slow you down.

  • SRAM's mid-level 4-piston trail and enduro brake
  • Modeled after the Code's but in a lighter package
  • SwingLink gives you more braking power with less finger force
  • New organic pad compound offers good bite and braking feel
  • Tool-free reach adjust for quick personalization
  • Even pad advancement prolongs brake pad life
  • Bleeding Edge interface for easy, clean brake bleeds
  • Matchmaker X-compatible cleans up your cockpit
  • Item #SRMD12O

Lever Adjustability
tool-free reach
Mount Type
DOT 5.1
Recommended Use
enduro, trail
Manufacturer Warranty
2 years

Tech Specs

What do you think about this product?


>Rating: 5

Big improvement

I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Got these for my son's Santa Cruz 5010 to replace the stock Deore brakes it came with. These are a big improvement both in stopping power and the feel of the levers. You will likely have to cut the rear brake line as this was way too long for even an XL frame and will be required if you have internal cable routing. I had this done at the LBS but everything you need is included except for the bleed kit. The front brake had the correct length hose. My only other issue was using the Matchmaker on the shifter side. Not sure if I lost the bolt or if it doesn't come with it but using the bolt I had resulted in the shifter not working (too long). I ended up going with the regular clamp which is just fine.


What does " A1 " mean??