The classic is back.
Lace up the Mago Climbing Shoe as you get ready to send your latest project. Scarpa designed these shoes with Vibram XS Grip2 rubber so that you can weight your feet on those dime edges while gracefully clipping a quickdraw. The asymmetric shape assists with precise footwork, allowing you to pin your foot on tiny footholds with efficiency. For lasting comfort and support, the suede and microsuede upper is form fitting to allow the shoes to fit your feet easily once broken in.
- An aggressive shoe for steep routes that demand performance
- Asymmetric downturn ideal for overhung, technical climbs
- Vibram XS Grip2 rubber is sticky on dime edges and tiny crystals
- Suede and microsuede upper provides durable, form fitting comfort
- Lace up style allows you to customize compression where it's needed
- Item #SCR007K
- Q & A
Great toe, okay heel
- Familiarity: I've used it several times
These are the most powerful climbing shoes I've owned when it comes to the toe. If you're a climber in need of confidence on small, vertical edges, the toe support on these things can expand your reach by a centimeter or so compared to the much loved scarpa instincts. I sized these the same as I did my instinct laces (41; my street shoe is US 9.5). As for the heel... I have to agree with Mark P. that the deadspace combined with very soft rubber make the heels feel baggy, making it a suboptimal choice for compression style boulder problems given the price tag of the shoe. That said, I love the Magos for hard sport and trad climbing where I don't depend on precision heel hooking as much and can revel in the extra centimeter the powerful toe seems to add to my reach.
So much potential...
- Familiarity: I returned this product before using it
The Scarpa TPS insert in the Boostic and subsequently updated Mago is responsible for one of the best edging platforms in modern climbing shoes. I've got three pairs of Boostics, and even after years of use, am still regularly amazed at just what these shoes are able to actually stand on. So I was pretty excited at the prospect of the new Mago- same brilliant edging, but with a more flexible split-midsole (the Boostic has a full sole), and laces down to the toe, portending an even more precise fit than the velcro model. However, it was with great dismay that I first tried on my recently-arrived Magos. Scarpa apparently either went back in time to the original Booster design, or took notes from contemporary clown footwear to come up with the Mago heel. It's probably the worst fitting heel I've tried on, and I've tried on _a lot_ of them. Like a full half inch of bagged-out dead space. It's crazy. The cruel irony is that the forefoot feels amazing, the construction is high quality, and they look really cool. I thought super-baggy, over-tensioned heels was the sole province of 5.10, but apparently Scarpa wanted to get in on the game. It's a shame, because with a better heel, this would be a contender for the best hard-sport shoe out there.