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Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Edge

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Instinct VS Climbing Shoe

When the angle kicks back and the moves get hard, trust the Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe to see you through to the chains. The aggressive downturn and sensitive midsole allow you to toe-in on edges and solution pockets while the innovative Bi-Tension system provides maximum power in the big toe without excess pain. Scarpa built the sole with Vibram's XS Edge at the toe for better precision, and a softer XS Grip 2 at the heel for a secure fit. The microsuede upper has rubber encased over the foot to reduce stretch and increase toe-hooking performance. Plus, the single hook-and-loop strap makes on and off a breeze.

  • Climbing shoe delivers power and precision for demanding climbs
  • Aggressive downturn designed for steep to overhung rock
  • Vibram XS Edge rubber sole with softer XS Grip 2 rubber at the heel
  • Low-stretch microsuede upper with Bi-Tension rand and single strap
  • Item #SCR0260

Upper Material
microsuede
Closure
hook-and-loop
Midsole
Flexan (1mm)
Rubber
Vibram XS Edge (3.5mm) [heel] Vibram XS Grip 2 (2mm)
Last
FV
Profile
downturn
Asymmetrical Curvature
aggressive
Claimed Weight
8.1oz
Recommended Use
bouldering, sport climbing
Manufacturer Warranty
1 year

Tech Specs

California Proposition 65

Warning:

Cancer and Reproductive Harm - P65Warnings.ca.gov

What do you think about this product?

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>Rating: 5

Sizing

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer
Fit:
Runs large
Size Bought
EU 42
Height
6` 1"
Weight
190 lbs

Street shoe Men’s 11.5 (12 for most Nike) Evolv Shaman 11 Evolv Addict 10.5 Five Ten Team 11.5 La Sportiva Solution EU42 Instinct VS EU42 Highly advise going down 2-2.5 EU sizes from your street shoe to remove all dead space. They’ll mold to your foot and stretch around .25 of a size after about 2 weeks and be perfecto! Fits like a 2nd skin. No dead space, very tight aggressive fit. I weight about 190 lbs and have no problem using these on anything. Sensitive, precise, and moderately stiff. Toe is kinda whatever, but it does the job. Actually prefer these outdoors over indoors.

>Rating: 5

Great all around shoes for wider feet.

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

These shoes are fantastic. I'm on my 3rd pair (rotating them as they are resoled) of the VS's. These shoes fit my semi-wide feet really well. I've used them at the gym and on sandstone, granite, and lime stone. Out of the box, they are pretty stiff and a bit uncomfortable, but after the break in period they soften up a bit and in my case only seemed to stretch 1/4 a size. Although not recommended, I can spend my whole gym session in these without taking them off. The shoes come with Vibram XS Edge which is a little on the hard side. If you are above 155lbs (70kg) the rubber will feel a bit more grippy but if you are lighter it might feel a bit slick (especially on smears and volumes.) The shoes edge well and are able to hold shape when using small edges. If you like the fit but want stickier rubber, I'd suggest getting the VSR which is the same shoe but with Vibram XS Grip 2. I have this Instinct VSR and I love it. The VSR will not be able to edge as well, but the rubber feels much stickier. The heel on the VS(R)'s stands out for me. I am able to heel hook aggressively and feel when my heel is on. I use heel hooks a lot and these shoes are one of the few that is more of a "set it and forget it" type. Over time, I've developed a slight gap in the heel space, but its still better than in my other shoes. Toe hooks are great in these. The patch of toe rubber lets you get a good feel on toe hooks and trust that it's going to stay. Side note: if the instinct vs's are too wide try the women's instinct vs!

>Rating: 5

Instincts VS - Great off the get go!

Familiarity:
I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I don't write a lot of reviews but i feel I need to in this case. My previous bouldering shoe was Scarpa Vapor Vs. I love that they were comfortable and were decent rubber but now that I'm climbing V6+ routes I needed a more aggressive shoe. So I ordered 3 pairs of the Instincts VS to ensure I got the right sizing. Normally I wear a size 9 or 42 EU street shoe. So I ordered 42, 41.5 and 41 sizes. From my research most people downsize a little with these Scarpas. (Definitely not as much as LaSportiva brands. Also I have a slightly wider than average foot width D so LaSportiva solutions were a bit tight. I read that these Instincts are better for wider feet and that they are! I tried on all 3 sizes at home and walked around in them and stood on my stair edges to "break" them in a bit. In the end I kept the 41.5 size (1/2 size down from my Street shoe size) and returned the others. I took my new Scarpas to the Boulder gym and I was pleasantly surprised at how well they performed on the first day. The heel hooks and toe hooks were amazing. Certainly better than my Vapor Vs. The shoe had a great fit, certainly snug, but not painful. I was able to send a V6 project that i have been flailing on for 3 weeks and the Instincts rubber definitely helped. I am looking forward to climbing more in these. Best shoes I have owned to date.

>Rating: 5

Amazing All-Rounder

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

This shoe can pretty much do it all. I used this shoe on every type of terrain and it always lived up to it’s expected performance! It edges well, smears well, the heal is super solid and grippy, and everything else was just as good! This shoe also has incredible durability. I used it almost exclusively for a year till it really started to fall apart. There was one weird issue I had though. When pressing down really hard on a small foothold, specifically in overhanging climbs, it seemed like the toe box would fold an pinch my toe. This hurt A LOT and was kinda disappointing. Did anyone else experience this problem? I think it was likely due to downsizing too much.

>Rating: 3

looks great but not my foot type

Familiarity:
I returned this product before using it

I wanted to love these so much, but the heel just didn't feel right. I will say the sizing is quite different. I sized up 1 full size from my normal climbing shoe size (la sportiva) and it was too small. I'm sure these work wonderfully, but just not made for my foot type.

>Rating: 5

The Next level

Ive been climbing since December and ran the black diamond momentum lace ups (which are a fantastic introduction shoe), however they were heavily used and weren't holding up so I looked for another pair. I wanted something that would be comfortable all day, yet have a moderate downturn and allow the rubber to stick. These hit it spot on, they use Vibram XS rubber like current La sportiva models, they have a moderate downturn so edging on this is an absolute monster (awesome) and I can wear them for 3 hours with only moderate discomfort in the arch. Sizing. I bounce between 10.5-11.0 street shoe (vans) I got the momentum lace ups in 45 and they were just a tad big, I got these in a 44 and they are perfect, a few blisters on the top of the toe but I can stand on hair-width thin edges. These are a fantastic shoe.

>Rating: 5

You need these.

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I wear a size 9 in vans street shoes, the 42.5s in these fit perfect. The reason i'm so pumped on these shoes is because my left foot is almost half a size smaller than my right, but the way these fit/stretch, it's equally comfortable on each foot with just the one size. I'm impressed with how they handle, and the toe box isn't so narrow that your toes are being crammed as if you're stuffing your hand into gloves that are too small. A new favorite for sure.

I have the same problem of my left foot being smaller than my right by almost a complete size; and having to buy two pairs of the same La Sportiva shoes: Otaki, Solution and Skwama. An expensive problem! Maybe going to try these when Backcountry finally gets an inventory replenishment.

>Rating: 5

A better Solution

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I was a fan of the solutions forever and got these as everyone said they were just an improved Solution, and they were right. The heel is still solid and stiff, but the outside is slightly narrower so it fits more heel hook positions/ holds. The toe is more stiff as the rubber is not extended so far away from the toe like the solutions which makes for more power and a better/ more accurate feel on foot holds. The only downside is that if you climb outside a lot, they do not hold up like solutions do to outside climbing. The toe patch and other materials can start to peel a little bit.

>Rating: 4

Great Fit

I got a size 44 and the fit is perfect, very comfortable shoe. I must say however that I'm not a fan of the vibram rubber on this shoe. At local climbing gym, some of the foot holds that my nexxo shoes were solid on, the scarpa slipped off and now have I little confidence on small foot jibs. Apart from that, a very nice shoe

>Rating: 5

Best seller for a reason

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

This is Scarpa's best selling climbing shoe and it's obvious why. It is the most versatile shoe that I have found. Fairly aggressive and down turned while still being a comfortable shoe. All the rubber on the top of the shoe and Vibram XS Grip 2 on the heel makes in great from toe and heel hooks, and the Vibram XS Edge on the toe gives you confidence on the smallest holds. Also the lack of exposed leather helps this shoe stay true to size and last forever! 5 star shoe!

>Rating: 5

New Favorites!

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I was on the search for some new climbing shoes and was looking for a little more aggressive shoe. I had quite a few others in mind, but the moment I put these on my feet, I knew. They were a bit tough to get on at first, but as soon as my foot was in them, it was heaven (with a little pain). Seriously, these shoes fit my feet absolutely perfectly. And the trend of the perfect fit continued when I started climbing in them, they make any size edge feel great. The rubber is amazing and grips to everything,..so far, both in the gym and outside. You get the perfect amount of feeling through the rubber so you can really effectively use what little edges you get. I highly recommend these shoes to anyone looking for a more aggressive shoe for any type of climbing.

>Rating: 4

Great performance, short lifespan

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I've been using these Scarpas for about 10 months (mostly indoors) , and the rubber is starting to go on both toes and the heels. Granted, they are TERRIFIC for overhanging stuff, and toe/heel hooks. Most importantly, the security I felt in these shoes gave me the confidence to start climbing in the v6-8 range. Unfortunately, they weren't as comfortable climbing slab (due to the aggressive downturn) and they were sort of hit or miss on real rock. TL;DR - really secure shoe, but the rubber goes quick and isn't made for slab.

>Rating: 5

I've had these for over a year

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I've worn these about three times a week for over a year. Mostly just indoor bouldering, but a decent amount of outdoor bouldering, and indoor rope. I'm pretty tough on the things I own and these shoes are no exception. They've held up without any failings as far as I can tell. Anytime my climbing is less than stellar I can blame greasy holds, high humidity, other people, bad genetics, irrational despondency, the unyielding grind, but so far never my shoes. Virtually zero maintenance, the sticky sole has held up very well despite jamming it into or onto abrasive or jagged surfaces, but I do add a generous splash of deodorizer after every session. Honestly my favorite shoes I have owned. So far.

>Rating: 4

Sizing

Familiarity:
I returned this product before using it

Runs one size small. Just wanted to help better size em. I wear about a 10.5 street shoe, Ive climbed in La Sportiva Nagos size 43 for a long time, as a wear-all-day comfort shoe and i got these in 43.5, could have been doable for short times but would quickly be too uncomfortable, so im exchanging for 44 to prolong my sessions in these shoes. Hope that helps with sizing. No comment on performance, havent climbed in them yet.

>Rating: 5

Take them anywhere!

I bought these for my brother he says he has a somewhat more narrower foot, which he says feels great in the VS. As with most climbing shoes there is a break in period. With his first pair of VS he had to take them off after every climb. After a couple of weeks (climbing 3 days on average) his feet finally adjusted. This being his second pair of the VS he said he had no break in period this time and wonders if maybe a size down would have been better. VS gives complete confidence on tiny feet, whether indoors or on actual rock; from granite, limestone and sandstone, as well giving the confidence and security of throwing out a heel or toe hook, VS latches on great!

>Rating: 5

The Bouldering King

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I tried on about 40 different aggressive shoes before choosing these. My pair are currently at the point of needing a resole. I've used them on every single different type of climb. What they are really good at is bouldering, indoor or outdoor. I feel like this rubber is perfect for outdoor, yet still very decent for indoor. I just ordered the lace up version as a replacement while mine are getting resoled. I imagine the lace up version will also be much better for sport multi-pitch climbs which is really my kind of party. I personally never had an issue with unusual separations or durability on this shoe. Every good climbing shoe has a purpose... What these shoes are perfect for: Bouldering sessions Edging very small holds The very best at toe hooks Overhangs Heel hooks Heel/Toe cams Not so good at: Multi-pitch sport climbs Smearing Not stinking Breathing well Really not good for: Crack climbing Off widths Chimneys Basically anything trad I wear a size 10 street shoe I wear a size 44 in this model and it fits Tight but not too small.

>Rating: 5

It's a better Solution...

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

After several failtures trying to find an aggressive shoe that fit my shallow heel, I finally tried out a pair of these and instantly fell in love. I am on my second pair and about to order a third for this upcoming season. I wear a size 9-9.5 street shoe, so I initially ordered a 42 for my first pair but they really open up after you break them in. I am in a size 41.5 now and they feel awesome.

>Rating: 5

Form Fitting Power

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

This is my fourth pair of the Instinct VS and they never fail to disappoint. The shoes start off really tight and painful, you need to take them off after a single sport climb or a couple boulder attempts. However, once they are worn in these shoes will fit you impeccably. I've never had anything close to the heel cup folding off or any movement of my foot within the shoe. One point to mention is these seem to be somewhat foot shape dependent, some of my more flat footed friends have not enjoyed the shoe as much as I have. The high arch of the shoe will work great if you already have a pronounced arch. These shoes are very durable, the toe rubber is pretty stiff and thick so they certainly last a while. Great rubber coverage over most of the shoe means any toe hook you want is a go. One thing to note is 5.10 shoes do not fit my foot well, so if you have had the same problem, these may be a good choice. Lastly, I'd say these are great for boulders and single pitch sport routes. I usually use my anazazi moccasyms for warmups/slab/trad.

>Rating: 5

Scarpa Instinct VS

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer
Fit:
Runs small
Size Bought
39
Height
5` 3"
Weight
150 lbs

I purchased this shoe primarily for bouldering and it has been a fantastic intermediate shoe. I started bouldering around a year ago and my first pair of shoes (Scarpa Origins) were fantastic but I noticed a lot of foot movement in them (my fault for comfort sizing them). I originally wanted to try La Sportiva, but none of their shoes fit me, so I decided to try the Instinct VS. Loved them right away, though the break-in period was a little painful (I sized down 1.5 sizes). With them I have been able to sent a couple of V5's (usually I'm a V4 climber)

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>Rating:

Can you please carry in the larger sizes that are available?

We do our best to have a variety of sizes available, but some do sell quicker than others. This makes keeping all of the sizes stocked something we are constantly trying to keep up with!

>Rating:

Can anybody offer advice about how these size compared to 5.10 Anasazi VCS? I'm looking for something with a similar footbox shape (wide feet) to the Anasazi VCS, but a little more aggressive. Does this fit the bill?

Hey Daniel, I would say you have found close to what you are looking for. They will be more downturned than the VCS and be on the wider side for aggressive shoes. You may also want to check out the Butora Narsha in a wide. They may achieve exactly what you are looking for but my best suggestion would be to get a pair on your feet and see how they feel. If you have any other questions feel free to reach out via the information listed above.

>Rating:

Hi! I was wondering how much these shoes stretch out? Trying to figure out what size I should get depending on how much or little they stretch. Thank you!

>Rating:

Wondering how these would compare to the pythons in fit and performance ? Also I'm a size 10 some times 9.5 in street shoes, python are a 39.5 (but could probably to a 39), five ten pinks 9.5 and tenaya oasi 9.5 (the 9 was too small but the 9.5 felt to big never really liked the shoe because of this)

Never even seen pythons but from the pics I am going to see this will be a more aggressive fit in the foot over all, especially in the heel.

>Rating:

I was wondering how these size compared to HiAngles or Blackwings or Shamans? I am a 13 in Blackwings and a 12 in the HiAngles and Shamans. I haven't found a place to try them on and see which size fits me best. Any input would be appreciated.

Hey this is a little late, but I wear about a 10 or 10.5 in the Blackwings and I just got a pair of the Instinct VS that seems to be a pretty good fit at size 9! It also seemed pretty consistent with my size in the Scarpa Booster and Vapor V so if you have the opportunity to try either of those shoes on, that'd be a good idea.

>Rating:

Hey guys, I have a little question about the fit of the SCARPA Instinct VS. I wear a 11 (44.5) in street shoes and I'm looking forward to order these in size 43.5 (10 1/3). I've been reading multiple reviews and forums about the sizing of this particular shoe, but it seems I just cant make up my mind. I know the best way to go would be to try these in store, but I just cant find them in any stores, down here in montreal. Is one euro size down too small-tight or should it be good? My worry is that if I order only .5 euro size small, there might be roomy space in the shoe. And knowing the shoe is made out of Lorica and it wont stretch much, I have to pick a nearly perfect size cuz it wont be much forgiving. Just let me now what are your thoughts on this, itd be really appreciated and really helpful, thanks!

Most people seem to downsize half to one whole size from their street shoe size, so it sounds like the 43.5 would be good for a nice performance fit.

>Rating:

when are you getting in size 45?

when are you getting in size 45?

Hey Rob, Looks like we should hopefully be getting these restocked around the first or second week of May so long as they get shipped on time.

>Rating:

I wear the Scarpa Vapor V in size 40 and...

I wear the Scarpa Vapor V in size 40 and it fits perfectly, do these fit similarly or do they run big/small?

I wear both the Vapor V and the Instinct VS in a 40 and I'd recommend you get the same size. The Instinct is a touch wider in my opinion but this actually works better for my foot.