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  • Scarpa - Instinct VS Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Edge - Black/Orange
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  • Scarpa - Instinct VS Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Edge - Black/Orange

Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Edge

$174.95

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    • Black/Orange
    4.5538

    38 Reviews

    Details

    The steeper the better.

    When the angle kicks back and the moves get hard, trust the Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe to see you through to the chains. The aggressive downturn and sensitive midsole allow you to toe-in on edges and solution pockets while the innovative Bi-Tension system provides maximum power in the big toe without excess pain. Plus, the single hook-and-loop strap makes on and off a breeze.

    • Durable Lorica uppers provide a snug fit that will not stretch out over time
    • Single floating hook-and-loop strap ensures a secure fit with easy on and off
    • The Instinct’s super-soft midsole enhances sensitivity and precision
    • Scarpa’s Bi-Tension system utilizes a reverse slingshot rand anchored under the toe-box for maximum power in the big toe without crushing your little piggies so you have the power to toe-down hard without the pain
    • Vibram XS Edge rubber resists distortion and performs consistently on the hardest edge moves in hot and cold weather
    • The rubber toe-patch improves toe-scums, hooks, and bicycles
    • Item #SCR0260
    • Reviews
    • Q & A

    What do you think about this product?

    Have questions about this product?

    Great performance, short lifespan

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I've been using these Scarpas for about 10 months (mostly indoors) , and the rubber is starting to go on both toes and the heels. Granted, they are TERRIFIC for overhanging stuff, and toe/heel hooks. Most importantly, the security I felt in these shoes gave me the confidence to start climbing in the v6-8 range. Unfortunately, they weren't as comfortable climbing slab (due to the aggressive downturn) and they were sort of hit or miss on real rock.

    TL;DR - really secure shoe, but the rubber goes quick and isn't made for slab.

    I've had these for over a year

    • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

    I've worn these about three times a week for over a year. Mostly just indoor bouldering, but a decent amount of outdoor bouldering, and indoor rope. I'm pretty tough on the things I own and these shoes are no exception. They've held up without any failings as far as I can tell. Anytime my climbing is less than stellar I can blame greasy holds, high humidity, other people, bad genetics, irrational despondency, the unyielding grind, but so far never my shoes. Virtually zero maintenance, the sticky sole has held up very well despite jamming it into or onto abrasive or jagged surfaces, but I do add a generous splash of deodorizer after every session. Honestly my favorite shoes I have owned. So far.

    Sizing

    • Familiarity: I returned this product before using it

    Runs one size small. Just wanted to help better size em. I wear about a 10.5 street shoe, Ive climbed in La Sportiva Nagos size 43 for a long time, as a wear-all-day comfort shoe and i got these in 43.5, could have been doable for short times but would quickly be too uncomfortable, so im exchanging for 44 to prolong my sessions in these shoes. Hope that helps with sizing. No comment on performance, havent climbed in them yet.

    Take them anywhere!

      I bought these for my brother he says he has a somewhat more narrower foot, which he says feels great in the VS. As with most climbing shoes there is a break in period. With his first pair of VS he had to take them off after every climb. After a couple of weeks (climbing 3 days on average) his feet finally adjusted. This being his second pair of the VS he said he had no break in period this time and wonders if maybe a size down would have been better. VS gives complete confidence on tiny feet, whether indoors or on actual rock; from granite, limestone and sandstone, as well giving the confidence and security of throwing out a heel or toe hook, VS latches on great!

      The Bouldering King

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      I tried on about 40 different aggressive shoes before choosing these. My pair are currently at the point of needing a resole. I've used them on every single different type of climb. What they are really good at is bouldering, indoor or outdoor. I feel like this rubber is perfect for outdoor, yet still very decent for indoor. I just ordered the lace up version as a replacement while mine are getting resoled. I imagine the lace up version will also be much better for sport multi-pitch climbs which is really my kind of party. I personally never had an issue with unusual separations or durability on this shoe. Every good climbing shoe has a purpose...

      What these shoes are perfect for:
      Bouldering sessions
      Edging very small holds
      The very best at toe hooks
      Overhangs
      Heel hooks
      Heel/Toe cams

      Not so good at:
      Multi-pitch sport climbs
      Smearing
      Not stinking
      Breathing well

      Really not good for:
      Crack climbing
      Off widths
      Chimneys
      Basically anything trad

      I wear a size 10 street shoe
      I wear a size 44 in this model and it fits Tight but not too small.

      It's a better Solution...

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      After several failtures trying to find an aggressive shoe that fit my shallow heel, I finally tried out a pair of these and instantly fell in love. I am on my second pair and about to order a third for this upcoming season. I wear a size 9-9.5 street shoe, so I initially ordered a 42 for my first pair but they really open up after you break them in. I am in a size 41.5 now and they feel awesome.

      Form Fitting Power

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

      This is my fourth pair of the Instinct VS and they never fail to disappoint. The shoes start off really tight and painful, you need to take them off after a single sport climb or a couple boulder attempts. However, once they are worn in these shoes will fit you impeccably. I've never had anything close to the heel cup folding off or any movement of my foot within the shoe. One point to mention is these seem to be somewhat foot shape dependent, some of my more flat footed friends have not enjoyed the shoe as much as I have. The high arch of the shoe will work great if you already have a pronounced arch.
      These shoes are very durable, the toe rubber is pretty stiff and thick so they certainly last a while. Great rubber coverage over most of the shoe means any toe hook you want is a go. One thing to note is 5.10 shoes do not fit my foot well, so if you have had the same problem, these may be a good choice.
      Lastly, I'd say these are great for boulders and single pitch sport routes. I usually use my anazazi moccasyms for warmups/slab/trad.

      Scarpa Instinct VS

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
      • Fit: Runs small
      • Size Bought: 39
      • Height: 5'3"
      • Weight: 150lbs

      I purchased this shoe primarily for bouldering and it has been a fantastic intermediate shoe.

      I started bouldering around a year ago and my first pair of shoes (Scarpa Origins) were fantastic but I noticed a lot of foot movement in them (my fault for comfort sizing them).

      I originally wanted to try La Sportiva, but none of their shoes fit me, so I decided to try the Instinct VS. Loved them right away, though the break-in period was a little painful (I sized down 1.5 sizes). With them I have been able to sent a couple of V5's (usually I'm a V4 climber)

      Awesome

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
      • Fit: Runs small

      Scarpa hit a home run with these!! I use them for bouldering and they are a great shoe especially since the USA CLIMBING bouldering season is coming up. Defenetliey would recommend for indoor climbing. Get these shoes, they are well worth you coin.

      a great shoe for most styles of climbing

      • Height: 5'8"
      • Weight: 130lbs

      The instinct vcs is a great shoe for boulders and overhung sport climbs, it's a amazing shoe for heel & toe hooks. It is also stiff enough to perform well on slab and vertical climbs. I would not recommend this shoe for very steep climbs past 45 degrees, it is too stiff to properly assist with grabbing holds on a roof. I've also found that it's a little too stiff and not sensitive enough to fit in a lot of pockets properly. A great buy nonetheless, performs well on nearly every style of climbing and built with fine Italian craftsmanship.

      Great shoes

      • Familiarity: I gave it as a gift but have feedback to share

      These shoes are awesome. I bought them as a gift for my buddy, who mainly climbs in the winter, when he cant go biking. He had a pair of 5.10 Anasazis, and was climbing V6s and V7s in them, and when he swithced shoes he was able to get into the 8s. great shoes, and made in Italy!

      Secret Weapon

      • Familiarity: I've used it several times
      • Fit: True to size
      • Size Bought: 41.5
      • Height: 6'1"
      • Weight: 155lbs

      These have got to be my go to shoes for hard sends, or when i cant afford foot cuts or technical errors. I feel confident trusting any small heel hook, smear, or small edge. Breaking these puppies in can take a little time but once they are the edge lasts a long time and i can continue to stand on the smallest edge with confidence. My favorite part about the shoe has got to be the Bi-tension rand that connects the tow box to the heel cup. This helps the shoe to maintain its fit long into the life of the shoe. I wont wear them for a few weeks and i put them on again and they are snug fitting or ill be wearing them for a long day of climbing and they will still "pop" on and my heel will fit snug into the heel cup. This also allows the power of the toe to be emphasized on every foothold. For sure the most well-rounded shoe in my bag. Slightly stiff, but for anyone over 100 lbs works incredibly well. Cant wait for the softer rubber VSR.

      Precise and powerful!

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
      • Size Bought: 41.5

      These are more new favorite climbing shoes! They are precise, sensitive, and powerful. They excel on small edges and live for the steeps. Even when the routes get slabby they are flexible enough to flatten out and not kill your feet. I spent the last year in Scarpa Boostics and picked these up because I was looking for something more sensitive, but still powerful. They are very tight fitting at first, literally a struggle just to get my foot in them the first 2 times, but eventually the slipper opening stretched out and now they fit like a dream. They are way more comfortable than the Boostics and the La Sportiva Miuras that I was in before that. Despite being so comfortable, they are incredibly precise and powerful and have boosted my confidence on tiny holds especially on really overhung routes. My sizing info is below:

      Miura VS: 41 (really tight)
      Anasazi Moccasym: 8 (really tight)
      Boostic: 42 (comfortable fit)
      Lynx: 42 (comfortable fit)
      Instinct VS: 41.5 (tight but comfortable)

      If you have any questions about climbing shoes please contact me directly.

      Great shoe.

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
      • Fit: True to size
      • Size Bought: 42
      • Height: 5'10"
      • Weight: 165lbs

      One of the more comfortable aggressive climbing shoe I've even worn. You can literally feel the suction of air come out the top of the slipper when they go on, leaving a tight fit that allows your heels to pull as hard as a hungry rottweiler on a frozen steak. This is my second pair, I went a size up the second time. These shoes will stretch to your feet, but if you size down too much you'll stretch them until they break (like my first pair). Comfortable for edging, great heel hooks, even better toe hooks. A+ shoe, would recommend. Not to mention they look pretty sexy.

      One con: When I'm standing around for too long my arches start to hurt. I doubt that will affect you. No pain while climbing/sitting, just standing. I'm sure that's just my feet.

      man they hurt

      • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
      • Fit: Runs small
      • Size Bought: 44.5
      • Height: 6'2"
      • Weight: 180lbs

      these were my first pair of aggressive downturned shoes. im a 12 street shoe size and bought a 44.5 (11) and man do my toes hurt. i cant keep them on longer than one bouldering problem. i already threw away the box by mistake as i was so happy to get them. im thinkin about getting the sz 45 because i doubt these shoes will stretch much.. not sure what i should do.

      Best shoes ever..

      • Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
      • Fit: True to size

      Wow.. I usually never write reviews, but these shoes are amazing. I just tried them for the first time and the edging and grip were amazing. I've always heard friends say that when you get shoes after your beginner pair, you totally level up. I totally feel that way now. Some holds where I wouldn't be as comfortable, with these shoes, are perfectly comfortable because I'm not slipping at all. In fact, they're just solid and super sticky. I'm guessing it's the type of rubber that they have on these and if that's the case, I'll have to find a resole place that has this same rubber. I got a size 41 (around 8/8.5 US) and my street shoe size is 8.5. In hindsight, I think I'd try a 40 because the shoes felt ridiculously comfortable for the first time trying them on. They were tight enough, but still had a bit of space, which is unfortunate because I know they'll stretch out, but I may have to buy another smaller pair next time.

      Stoked..

      PERFECT shoe for low volume & high arch

      • Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
      • Fit: Runs small
      • Size Bought: 42.5
      • Height: 5'8"
      • Weight: 160lbs

      These shoes are without a doubt my favorites. I have several other shoes from Sportiva, 5-10 and Evolv and these are without question the best of the bunch. I like my Solutions, but these are far and away a better shoe all around. 5-10's feel notoriously baggy in the heel and just generally feel sloppy, even when sizing WAY down. Maybe 5-10's are good for flat footed folks??

      I have low volume feet and these accommodate me so well. I even get a little "FUOOOP" suction sound when I take them off! They seem to conform to your foot shape EXTREMELY well. Everyone I know that has a pair of these says they are their faves.

      You cannot ask for a better bouldering shoe; edging on micro chips, heel hooks, toe hooks, tipping in pockets - you name it, this shoe does it VERY well. I use em for shorter routes as well. They are form fitting, but don't strangle.

      My Sizing:
      Street shoe - 9.5 US
      Instinct VS' - 42.5

      Can anybody offer advice about how these size compared to 5.10 Anasazi VCS? I'm looking for something with a similar footbox shape (wide feet) to the Anasazi VCS, but a little more aggressive. Does this fit the bill?

      Hey Daniel, I would say you have found close to what you are looking for. They will be more downturned than the VCS and be on the wider side for aggressive shoes. You may also want to check out the Butora Narsha in a wide. They may achieve exactly what you are looking for but my best suggestion would be to get a pair on your feet and see how they feel. If you have any other questions feel free to reach out via the information listed above.

      Unanswered Question

      Hi! I was wondering how much these shoes stretch out? Trying to figure out what size I should get depending on how much or little they stretch. Thank you!

      Wondering how these would compare to the pythons in fit and performance ? Also I'm a size 10 some times 9.5 in street shoes, python are a 39.5 (but could probably to a 39), five ten pinks 9.5 and tenaya oasi 9.5 (the 9 was too small but the 9.5 felt to big never really liked the shoe because of this)

      I was wondering how these size compared to HiAngles or Blackwings or Shamans? I am a 13 in Blackwings and a 12 in the HiAngles and Shamans. I haven't found a place to try them on and see which size fits me best. Any input would be appreciated.

      Hey this is a little late, but I wear about a 10 or 10.5 in the Blackwings and I just got a pair of the Instinct VS that seems to be a pretty good fit at size 9! It also seemed pretty consistent with my size in the Scarpa Booster and Vapor V so if you have the opportunity to try either of those shoes on, that'd be a good idea.

      Hey guys, I have a little question about the fit of the SCARPA Instinct VS. I wear a 11 (44.5) in street shoes and I'm looking forward to order these in size 43.5 (10 1/3). I've been reading multiple reviews and forums about the sizing of this particular shoe, but it seems I just cant make up my mind. I know the best way to go would be to try these in store, but I just cant find them in any stores, down here in montreal. Is one euro size down too small-tight or should it be good? My worry is that if I order only .5 euro size small, there might be roomy space in the shoe. And knowing the shoe is made out of Lorica and it wont stretch much, I have to pick a nearly perfect size cuz it wont be much forgiving. Just let me now what are your thoughts on this, itd be really appreciated and really helpful, thanks!

      I wear the Scarpa Vapor V in size 40 and...

      I wear the Scarpa Vapor V in size 40 and it fits perfectly, do these fit similarly or do they run big/small?