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Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoe -XS Edge

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    Instinct Climbing Shoe -XS Edge

    If you are the type of climber who requires your feet to act more like another set of hands, evolve into a pair of Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoes, and let the transformation begin. The Instinct’s aggressive shape and sensitive midsole sucks to your foot like a vacuum so you can push, pull, squeeze, hook, and grab your way to the top of the most perplexing problems. Scarpa's Bi-Tension system utilizes a reverse slingshot rand anchored under the toe-box for maximum power in the big toe without crushing your little piggies so you have the power to toe-down hard without the pain so you can show off your technique. Sure, it’s also a favorite of industry testers, but you don’t have to take their word for it. Slip in and let the crushing commence.

    • Aggressive climbing shoes for the most technical climbs
    • Suede upper and full-lace closure conform to the shape of your foot
    • Super-soft midsole enhances sensitivity and precision
    • Vibram XS Edge rubber resists distortion and performs consistently
    • The rubber toe-patch improves toe-scums, hooks, and bicycles
    • Item #SCR0253

    Upper Material
    suede
    Closure
    lace
    Rubber
    Vibram XS Edge (3.5mm)
    Last
    FQ
    Profile
    downturned
    Asymmetrical Curvature
    aggressive
    Claimed Weight
    [single, size 40] 8oz
    Recommended Use
    bouldering, sport climbing
    Manufacturer Warranty
    1 year

    Tech Specs

    California Proposition 65

    Warning:

    Cancer and Reproductive Harm - P65Warnings.ca.gov

    What do you think about this product?

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    >Rating: 4

    Initial Comparison

    Fit:
    True to size
    Size Bought
    41
    Height
    5` 9"
    Weight
    160 lbs

    I wear size 8.5-9 street shoe/ sportiva tx3/ 42 Miura vcs(baggy but comfy). Okay so due to sizing availability I bought the Instinct VS in 41.5 and Instinct lace in 41 and the sportiva Solution in 41. These are my try-on impressions. Instinct VS 41.5- perfect tight fit. Foot slides in and heel cup is tight. Toes slightly curled. Instinct Lace 41- Foot slides in with some hefty pulling on heel loops. Heel cup tight af. No dead space. Toes curled up. Pain. Solution 41- slips on nicely. Tight in toe box. Dead space in heal. Farting noise when walking around lol. Nope. I sent the instinct vs and solutions back. The instinct lace is really tight, but I wanted a tight shoe after not going tight enough on my Miuras. I was a little worried the VS would break in and not be quite tight enough. Anyways hope this helps. I’m psyched to climb in them and I’ll update this after they’re broken in. My gear head Robert was very helpful as well!

    Thanks for the awesome review and great feedback on the sizing here Mitch! I hope these bad boys help you send some awesome routes!

    >Rating: 5

    Good Shoe for technical sport climbing

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times

    Really good shoe overall, the edge is very firm and the pointed toe works really well and holds up great. As a couple others have said, it's definitely a little too loose in the heel, I find my heel hooks are less good in these shoes than I want them to be because theres some room in there. They also make a nice farting noise as I walk and squeeze the air out which I'm sure is super fun for everyone around me.

    >Rating: 4

    Great for Sport Climbing

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    This is an amazing shoe, for certain situations. In my opinion the Instinct is good for overhanging sport routes or boulders, however not so great for slabs. This is an excellent shoe, if you realize what you are getting. This is not by any means a do it all kind of shoe. However, if you are an advanced-expert climber looking to add an extra shoe to your arsenal, I would highly recommend the Scarpa Instinct. My only other complaint would be that the heel fits a little big. For sizing reference I wear a size 9 or 42 and purchased a 41, however I could easily go smaller. Most people will most likely want to downsize a full size from their regular street shoe.

    >Rating: 5

    Great multi-purpose aggressive shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    Very comfortable shoe for someone with slightly wide feet. Nice edges, nice downturn, lots of rubber on the toe and heel. The most comfortable pair of aggressive shoes I've ever used (although obviously this depend on your foot). I can wear them for 30-45ish minutes straight without much discomfort. The heel is a little large for me, and I slip occasionally, but this isn't really a problem with the shoe, but more my foot. They also will turn your toes orange. I'm not a fan of the XS edge rubber either, it takes some breaking in to be sticky, and never really feels all that sticky. Overall these are great all-around shoes, nice for overhangs, slab, any and all small foot chips. I've been really happy with them.

    >Rating: 5

    My go-to shoe!

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    True to size
    Size Bought
    41.5
    Height
    5` 6"
    Weight
    175 lbs

    I'm a huge fan of all the shoes in Scarpa's line-up, and these are no exception! I've had the Instinct VS for a while now, and it's been my favorite shoe for anything vertical to overhang, indoors or outdoors. I was looking for something that could everything well and still be comfortable on longer multi-pitch route, and the Instinct Lace has been perfect! I sized them for a good balance of performance and comfort at 41.5 EU (my street shoe is a 42), and my toes are just slightly curled at the front of the shoe. I can wear them for multiple routes in row without any discomfort, but they don't ever feel too loose or sloppy. They've been great on everything from techy slabs to mildy overhanging routes, and I've even been pretty comfortable in some cracks with them! They do lack in sensitivity, as the XS Edge rubber is a little thicker and harder on this shoe than some other, but they do give my feet a little bit of extra support. This shoe is undoubtedly a jack of all trades, and a master of a few of them too! If you have any questions about the sizing on these, give me a call at 801-204-4691 or email me at rlindsen@backcountry.com!

    >Rating: 5

    Badass Shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    True to size
    Size Bought
    41.5
    Height
    5` 8"
    Weight
    160 lbs

    After owning, loving, and starting to wear though my Instinct VS's, I decided to get a pair of the Instinct Laces to add to the rotation. I've got em both in 41.5 and they fit exactly the same. They both have the same curvature in the sole with just enough downturn to create power in the toe (but not enough to make things super uncomfortable), and they both have that same heel cup that sucks your heel in like a vacuum. Love em both. As mentioned in some other reviews on the net, the lace version is a little stiffer, so it edges a little better at the cost of a little bit of feel (vs the velcro). The material on the top is downright luxurious, and the whole deal is super lightweight and awesome. I don't like stiff shoes, so I like the fact that these are a bit stiff in the front, but only have a 3/4 sole, so you retain some feel/bend overall. I rekon these will be perfect for edgy face climbs outside, just as the velcros seem perfect for steep boulders. I also prefer the softer rubber on the top of these vs the velcros, as it was easier to break in. Pricey, but worth the $ for this mediocre climber looking for any edge I can get on my next project.

    >Rating: 5

    Awesome

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    Runs small

    These are great climbing shoes, but they do NOT run large, I suspect that reviews stating they run large come from people purchasing the direct translation of their street shoe size to climbing shoes, not sizing down for the snug fit you want from a climbing shoe. Most people wear a smaller climbing shoe than street shoe. Scarpa climbing shoes run notoriously small. That being said, they are great climbing shoes if you buy the right size. Tight, nice clean toe point for hooking where you need to, and a good narrow heel.

    >Rating: 5

    Great shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've used it several times
    Fit:
    True to size
    Size Bought
    41

    Awesome edging power, great toeing power. Stiff but not too bad. It does eliminate your ability to feel for holds somewhat, but thats the nature of the design. Toes were a bit cramped until after a few uses, but all around a great shoe.

    >Rating: 5

    Great Shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    Fit:
    Runs large
    Size Bought
    42
    Height
    5` 6"
    Weight
    152 lbs

    Full disclosure, I'm a relative newbie to the climbing scene but a bunch of friends and family have been doing it for a while so I began bouldering a year ago. I've always been using house shoes but have been told time and time again to invest in a decent shoe. I usually wear a 9.5 and I initially bought a 41.5 based on reviews here but they killed my toes. I kept taking them off to check to see if my toenails had fallen off because that's really what it felt like. I went a half size up to 42 and they're still extremely tight, but they seem to be stretching and conforming to my feet well. As far as the performance of these shoes go, they are pretty beastly. The difference may be more exaggerated for me since my last shoes were house shoes, but I went from climbing V2's and the occasional V3 to climbing V4's. My only issues are as follows: If they are too small, the knucklebox will be very painful. The heel is made to hug your entire heel so there will be what feels like a rubber strap against your ankles, and that can get uncomfortable over time. The top part of the heel has 0 padding, it's just straight cut suede, so you might want to tape up your achilles before putting these things on. One more note: Backcountry has a jarringly good customer service department. I swear, I wasn't paid to say that, but you'll see what I mean if and when you have to deal with them.

    >Rating: 4

    Precision, Comfort and Control

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    True to size

    The only reason I didn't give these shoes 5 stars is because there is a stitching seam that runs right over the top of my big toe that doesn't feel great. Pro's: I have a wide foot and that is something I have noticed Scarpa really caters to. I love the leather throughout the shoe compared to synthetic materials some shoes use. They have strong sticky rubber on the bottom, but I have surprisingly good feel on the holds with my feet. I am a big fan of the laces over Velcro straps. Cons: stitching seam that runs right over the top of my big toe that doesn't feel great. Overall these are my favorite climbing shoes. These will defanitely be a pair I get resoled !

    The
    >Rating: 5

    Performance, and comfort!

    Familiarity:
    I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    Fit:
    True to size
    Size Bought
    37
    Height
    5` 4"

    I recently got a bunch of shoes to try out, and these are pretty awesome. They are aggressive, downturned and with really good rubber positioning on toes and heel, but, and perhaps it's my foot, they are pretty comfortable. The laces are a good choice on this shoe because, due to higher comfort than the Boostic shoe for instance, you can leave them on for longer periods of time and really dial in the fit to your foot better than with velcro straps. Sizing - there run a bit larger than the Boostic (tightest) and also Vapor Vs (in between Boostic and Instinct. I am a european street show 36-36.5; US women size 6-6.5 and i got these in 37. I could have done a 36.5 in hindsight, but it's nice to have a comfortable pair that is also aggressive. Perfect for vertical, overhung climbs and boulders, really great edging. Not the best smearer, but it's not supposed to be, and this may improve once they break in more. photo - heel hooking out of the overhang. they stick super well.

    I
    >Rating: 5

    My favorite climbing shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    True to size

    This shoe has become my go to shoe for most climbs. Edge great, toes are great a fitting right into little pockets, and perform really good on toe and heel hooks. They smear OK, not great, but they are not designed to be a slab shoe. They have held up really well too, I have put close to 150 days of climbing on them, maybe 50 of those inside, but the rest on all kinds of rock, from Maple Canyon cobble, to Wild Iris limestone, to sharp granite of BCC and quartzite of the Uintas, and rubber is still thick and sticky. I have noticed no stretch to them, but the red dye in the leather will leave your feet red for quite some time. I would not recommend them for new climbers, but for those experienced climbers looking for a super good technical shoe, this is it.

    >Rating: 5

    Great Lace-Up Performer

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    True to size

    I use these mainly on technical, aggressive face climbs from vertical to slightly overhanging that require precision footwork on small holds, along with shoe sensitivity. They are comfortable, as other reviewers note, but not sloppy. Often it's a toss-up between these and the Boostics on the same terrain, so I'll just alternate which shoe I wear from climb to climb. For a project, I'll test the route in both shoes and then decide which shoes feel best for the route in question. To me, the Instinct Lace seems a touch more sensitive than the Boostic, while the Boostic seems slightly stiffer. Both aspects have advantages.

    >Rating: 5

    Powerful, precise shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    True to size

    I graduated to the Instincts after using the lace up Vapors for about a year. The shoe shines in a variety of settings. It is stiff enough for hard redpoints on overhangs, but still offers enough sensitivity that you can "feel" around with your feet. These are my go-to shoe for redpoints, onsights, and flash attempts. The fit is surprisingly comfortable for an aggressive shoe. I wear 42 to 42.5 in street shoes and the Instincts feel great at 41. There is a knuckle box (same idea as Evolv's Love Bump) in the toe that provides leverage without pain. I have wider feet and expected to suffer in these shoes, but they have been surprisingly comfortable. Overall a great shoe for anyone looking to up their game.

    >Rating: 5

    Highly Recommended

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    Runs large

    Fit: I'd go a half or full size down from your street shoe size. I went a half size and there is still a bit of bagginess in the heel but if I go any smaller my toes will likely fall off. The toe box is relatively wide, not recommended for people with narrow feet. The leather will stretch a bit to fit your feet nicely and also dies them bright red. Performance: Great for overhung and excellent at edging. Makes for an excellent bouldering shoe. The rubber is not as sticky as the discontinued Vibram XS Grip2 version that is still available in some sizes (as of October 2013) but it is still superior than most rubber I have ever seen except may be Five Ten rubber.

    >Rating: 5

    Best Shoe I Have Ever Owned

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer

    The Instinct Lace Up is my go to shoe. It fits a wider foot and is incredibly sensitive while being stiff enough for the toughest edging I have had to do. I use these shoes for anything that is at my limit including extremely long days. One of the best features of these shoes is that they perform really well without having to fit them too tight. They are amazing don't think twice about them! If they seem wide for your foot, try out the Vapor Laceups. They are similar but made for those with less wide feet.

    >Rating: 5

    All-TIme Great Shoe

    Familiarity:
    I've put it through the wringer
    Fit:
    Runs large

    I've been climbing for over 20 years. Bouldering, sport climbing, "trad climbing," crack climbing, big walls, alpine. These shoes are slightly aggressive, but not so aggressive that you feel like your just climbing on the tips of your toes. They do everything well, and are quite comfortable for me, but still I would not reach for these if I were just going crack climbing for the weekend. I wear a size 8.5 to 9 US in most street shoes (8.5 in Five Ten approach shoes), and I wear a 40.5 in the Instinct. I could easily go a 1/2 size smaller, which would probably make the heel fit a little better, but I prefer to be comfortable. The heel still works great for me, but there is a tiny empty spot that does get a little bigger over time. I've had three pairs in a row of these, and I'll be getting more. Hopefully the slipper version as well, if they ever go on sale.

    >Rating:

    Scarpa Instinct Climbing Shoe -XS Edge

    >Rating: 4

    SWEET!

    Familiarity:
    I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
    Fit:
    True to size

    So far so good, had them for about a week now. First impression is that they are a Miura VS with a Toe Cap :) which is awesome! Super tight, still not even close to being broken in but they edge like champions. There is an audible "squish" as you get them on....love the fit, no dead space. I wear a 37.5 in the miura VS and a 38 in these. My street shoe is a 7.5 Adding to the review... been climbing in them for almost a year now? My toes still aren't totally happy with the toe box, they definitely make my toes bleed after super long sessions. All in all, my next pair will be another pair of Miura VS.

    Flagged as inappropriate or irrelevant to the product. Click here to view.

    >Rating:

    Hi. Does this lace version come in a size 46? Even Scarpa's website only goes up to a 45, but would love to try these out as a stiffer sport shoe.

    >Rating:

    I own a pair of Instinct Lace that have XS Grip 2 rubber. Do these have XS Grip 2 or XS Edge? The photo also shows XS Grip 2.

    Edge rubber. Grip 2 was phased out in 2013 from what I can tell. If you find anywhere selling them it must be old stock and if so please share where :)

    >Rating:

    What is the heel cup like in these shoes? Are they shallow? Or deep?

    Fairly shallow heel. Not quite as small as the newer Vapor V, Instinct VS, or Boostic. I have a small heel and wide forefoot and this shoe fits really well for a comfortable and performance minded fit. Wish I knew this before buying Vapor V's right before they arrived. The Instinct lace is a little wider in the forefoot and more performance driven it seems but best of all you can really dial the fit and get a more secure feel without downsizing!