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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on November 21, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 170 lbs
Size Purchased: M

At first glance, the jacket does seem to be really puffy for an active insulated layer but it packs down like a champ and you will be happy you have it whether you are belaying halfway up a shady side multi-pitch route in Red Rocks during the fall or earlywinter or high in the alpine pushing to the summit. Me and my climbing partner both used it in Red Rock this past weekend. With a small 20L pack I had for the climb I was able to fit a liter of water snacks some extra emergency cord and the OR Refuge with plenty of room left for more water which I wish I actually had. It kept me warm at belays but was not causing me to overheat wearing it for the last few pitches as the sun was coming down and the wind blowing. I would guess it was about 45 - 50 degrees and it was moderate, non-strenuous climbing wearing it over a tee-shirt. As we made the walk off the sun dropped completely, got a bit colder but with the fast pace walk down I warm and not overheating.

Varying layers based on your activity would allow this jacket to fit a wide range of purposes and I consider it a mid-layer option.

I’m 5’10” 160, on a sendy day and the size M fits great for fall rock climbing and would say a sporty fit meaning it would be a bit snug if wearing if over a few other warm layers. I large fits me well but would be too big to lead in and would then just serve as a belay jacket.

I hope my strange way of telling you this jacket is awesome was useful and will help with your decision.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on October 31, 2019

Its What You Want
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I wear these for difficult multi-pitch climbing. The amount of padding makes them easy to be in all day, because of the slight aggressive style and XS edge rubber you're not losing performance for comfort. I used these in the Gunks for a season pushing my grade a bit so I wanted a high performing shoe that would also be comfortable to walk the mid-ledge that separates most climbs from there top pitch and wear most of the best pitches start.

I wear a size 9 street shoe used a size 42 with no discomfort after they were broken in. I would recommend going down a half size if you like a tighter more aggressive fit.
Unfortunately, I had lost my Katanas 3 years ago in the Gunks. I can only hope they found a sendy home. The point is after all these years I bought a new pair and they haven't changed, I still love em!

Heres a picture of the day before they went missing.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on October 15, 2019

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Very light and comfortable. I spent a little bit of time in a hanging belay while doing a multi-pitch climb and was surprised how comfortable it was to sit in. The gear loops are great for a harness this minimal and light. You can easily rack all your cams and draws for hard sport and trad routes.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on July 15, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The Metolious Ultra cams are a must. It is common to have a rack with doubles of all Black Diamond Camalots. However, I know like to climb with at least a few Metolius Ultralights on one side of my harness instead of doubles in the .4-.75 range( it all depends on the route). The reason is that the sizes are in between the BD sizes so you have a better chance at having the right piece for the crack. Having a variety of gear on your harness is a bit overwhelming at first but I find it the best method for onsite climbing. If you were to buy just one of these I would say grab the Orange #3 for in between .5 and .75 BD sizes.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on July 15, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

Personally, I think this is the best pack for adventuring into the alpine to work some hard routes. When doing steep approaches or scrambling around boulder fields and difficult moraine and you have a full trad rack maybe some iron and a couple of ropes you want a pack that works with you. and not through you off balance while on more technical terrain. I used this pack on a very steep approach with some 5.4 scramblings in areas and never felt uncomfortable with a full rack and a rope on my back the spine system really helps the weight stay centred. However, the shoulder padding could be slightly better and there are other packs on the market with more paddling in that area. So, if you are a skinny lad and have boney shoulders and collar bone you might have slight uncomfort after some hours in the pack. Personally, I did not have this issue but my friend which is 6'2" and 150 lbs who used the pack for a couple of hours on the approach did mention some stitching that dug into his shoulders a bit. However, this might be able to be avoided once you get a feel for the pack on you own body.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on July 15, 2019

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I used these on a Trip up to Lone Peak right outside of Salt Lake City. It is summer and very hot but still a lot of snow up high so having a solid pair of crampons that fit onto any hiking boot (a stiffer boot is best). I wore them with some Salomons Utra 3's so they were not the best fit, a boot with a stiffer sole would have prevented some moving around in the crampon but still way more effective than micro spike would have been. It is a great option if you are doing any Alpine in the summer and fear you might run into some soft snow and ice for small portions of the approach.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on June 14, 2019

3 5

This is a fine harness. It is comfortable and keeps you safe. The main selling point is the price if you are just dipping your toes in the waters of climbing this will be a great first harness for primary gym climbing in mind. Comfort, and reasonable price, everything you need in your first harness.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on June 14, 2019

5 5

Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 170 lbs

I would recommend this pullover style rain jacket if you are looking for a rain jacket more for the style than activity. The Precept is a great jacket for the backcountry but I would not recommend the pullover style for camping or long backcountry trips.
If you want to look cool and stay dry this is the one for you.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on June 14, 2019

5 5

I have loved the Pinkies for some years now. If you are climbing on a lot of low angle granite slabs similar to little cottonwood canyon out here is SLC, the pinkies stick and smear with the best of them. They are also amazingly comfortable for long days on the wall and you don't have the option to pop your shoes off. I got these in 8.5 when I would usually be a 9 in most shoes after some time they stretch and now fit perfectly.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on May 13, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I love these things. I would recommend any trad leader to have at least the 3 smallest sizes on there harness. When climbing it Big Cottonwood Canyon and the Uintas which is quartzite and forms many tight seems that you might be able to get a small nut or brassy, and not a good placement. I found at one of these seems and sure I could have placed a nut that I would not want to fall on but convince myself otherwise or BAM! the ball nut comes out and now you have a bomber peice of pro.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on May 13, 2019

4 5

I really do love this helmet and would recommend it to anyone looking for a lightweight helmet for their climbing adventures. The adjustable dial makes the fit feel solid and comfortable. However, during a night climb as I came to a squeeze chimney off-width section and my helmet was rubbing all over the big boy crack it would knock my headlamp out of the tabs that hold the headlamp strap in place and into my face, which was a bit frustrating. The headband slips into the securing tabs from the bottom which is fine and holds the headlamp fine, that is until you have to fit your head and helmet through a tight squeeze. With that said I love this helmet for all my climbing except at night.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on May 13, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

It's no secret that this harness is one of the best. The most important part is the wrap strength technology, it makes those long multi-pitch climbs with many hanging belays. There are other harnesses from other brands with their own way of distributing weight through the waist. If you want a harness that will cover all you climbing endeavours this is a great one.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on March 29, 2019

Perfect for split-boarding!
5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 170 lbs
Size Purchased: L

I took these out for a tour last week and it was storming out and pretty wet for a soft shell pant I was impressed with how waterproof they were. I was also impressed with how they fit around my snowboard boots Arcteryx is generally a slimmer fit in my experience, I wore the large at 5'9" 170 and they were great. If my buddy in that picture had a caption it would say I just triggered an Avalanche but its ok because those pants Kevin has are amazing!

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on March 29, 2019

5 5

I wish I had loads to say about this beacon but in comparison to my tracker 2 that I used for the past few seasons its a bit more accurate in search mode. It has some pretty cool features by being able to mark multiple victims lock the location and then head towards the next.

It has all the cool features but it is a great beacon for beginners because how user friendly it is

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on March 26, 2019

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 170 lbs

I got to use this on a powder day and well it's pretty cool. There is a fleece-lined face shield with a vent so you can keep your face warm without your breath freezing the inside of the jacket. I'm 5'9" 165lbs and I wore a large which was really big and looked like a shiny suit from a 90's hip hop video. So if I were to purchase the powder suit I would certainly be a size M

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on March 5, 2019

4 5

Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 170 lbs
Size Purchased: L

A great shell that is super breathable and comfortable. If you like to ride with many layers under a shell this one fits over a base layer and two mid layers nicely. I wore this snowboarding at a resort and was perfect. OR makes some great alpine climbing shells but this is not the one.

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kevin doty

kevin dotywrote a review of on March 5, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 170 lbs
Size Purchased: L

I thought the fit and convenience of the pockets where great and would be great for a day tour or riding the resort. I will say the fabric does seem this and as other reviews mention could be an easy tear. There are many reasons to buy this bib but Durability isn't one. I used the L which fit baggy, and I liked that.

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