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crypple

crypple

crypple

crypplewrote a review of on July 31, 2017

5 5

I've used almost every belay device out there from high friction single strand atc's to grigri's and the mega jul is now my one stop shop quiver killer. I'd previously settled on a grigri for most belaying (keeps my partner happy) and I carry a reverso for multis and rappelling off singles. I've had several times when cleaning a single pitch where I'm at the anchors and having a moment where I wasn't sure which device I'd brought up with me. I'm massively impressed by the mega Jul. It locks reliably on a leader fall (even tested it with tons of slack on the belay hand with a light climber on a mellow fall and it only took 6" or so before locking) and is super easy to rappel or belay a follower. I even feel super comfortable hanging off it cleaning routes (in locking mode). My wife did find it a bit hard to lower me off (takes some active lifting on the handle) but I find it really easy and intuitive. For me this is now my go to belay device and replaces the several hundred $ in other devices that now sit in my gear closet. 100% recommended.

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crypple

crypplewrote a review of on July 21, 2017

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Ok, I'm genuinely mad about the ohm so take my review with a grain of salt. I'm rating it 3 stars because it does 'get the job done', but beyond that there's several decisions in the design that don't make sense and that are genuinely annoying.
I saw it being tested and publicized last year and was looking forward to getting one. Now that it's in my hands I'm left scratching my head as to why they built it this way.

1. It's far too heavy. There is no active cam device, it's just pure friction from fixed components. Why does it need to weigh more than twice as much as a grigri? There's no reason to have the entire body built from steel or for the 3/4" thick solid steel base. It's just kind of ridiculously heavy.

2. You must use their quick link at the dogbone attachment which, again, is heavy stainless steel. So many parts of this could be aluminum without compromising safety. It should also accept regular lockers instead of relying on a hardware store quicklink. Also, the dogbone doesn't have a rubber orientation guide, I could see the link getting cross loaded pretty easily.

3. They've fallen into the branding trap where the entire thing is Edelrid Fluro yellow, but with such heavy emphasis on rope direction they could have made far better color choices in allowing quick identification of correct rope direction. It's possible that a climber will want to use this 'pre installed' in which case it becomes tricky to quickly ID the correct orientation. Why not give the climber every chance to easily get it right?

4. It's just big. And heavy. I know, it's worth mentioning twice. It's hard to wrap my head around why a simple friction device needs to weigh this much. It feels like they could almost bring this down to the weight of a few aluminium biners

5. It's expensive. Why does it cost 30% more than a grigri. Again, no moving parts. No magic, just friction. It's far overpriced.

As you can tell I'm really disappointed and looking forward to a version 2 or for another manufacturer to get it right. All that said it does work well, it's just more suited for industrial applications (like permanent install in a gym) than belonging on a rec climbers rack. Something like this should be able to live in my climbing bag to be used on a whim, now I'll have to carefully consider whether to lug almost a pound of steel on the off chance I'd like to use it. I'd only recommend buying you have an absolute need for it.

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review flagged as wrong. They clearly didn't read the instructions. Not to be used with an ATC, come on bro.. Click here to view.

crypple

crypplewrote a review of on March 23, 2011

5 5

I had some issues with heel lift and ankle pain in my last (heavy) boots. These are super light and the hold on the heel is awesome. After some tweaking with my bindings they've resulted in a real nice ride. They are pretty stiff so if you're super into park they may not be the go, but I paired them with Burton Cartels (which are pretty flexy) and it's turned into a really nice combo. Very nice on the slopes, stiff but still very comfortable in the park. Very satisfied with these.

Cons: When walking the lace hooks tend to grab onto anything within reach, just make sure you pull your pants over them and you'll be sweet

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