climbonwrote a review of Edelrid Orion Harness on September 9, 2017
Familiarity: I've used it several times
I'm 6'-0", 165 lbs, approx 10% body fat, so not much natural cushion. Harnesses, even super padded big walls ones, always cut in to my legs and seriously hurt. After 15 years of suffering, I decided to go in search of a pain-free harness. I am only a sport climber, but was willing to wear anything for comfort, even it meant tons of weight and bulk. Too my surprise this fairly light, ultra breathable sport harness was the clear winner.
I've tried MM Cadillac, MM Titan, Petzl Sama, Metolius Deluxs, BD Solution, ArcTeryx AR-395, and numerous others. Whether super padded big-wall, "warp", "fusion" or other technology nothing even came close to the Orion.
This split webbing is unlike anything on the market providing a level of weight distribution that is unequaled. Combined with the formed legs, the difference in comfort is significant. Lots of harnesses have wide legs, but they either have single strap covered in lots of padding, or shift weight to the edges so that it still cuts in just as bad or even worse. I don't know why manufacturers focus so much on the hip belt when legs carry 80%+ of the weight. Elderid nailed this.
It is super breathable also - the entire thing is mesh-like material. Weight is great considering the comfort level. The gear loops are nicely sized and angled. The legs also have an elastic section in addition to the adjustable strap, making it uber -comfortable. The hip-belt is just as good as the legs - super comfortable, soft, vented. The slide buckles are the the smoothest I've ever used.
I've read 2 reviews complain about a nut-pinching experience which initially made me worry, but I've had no such issue. The harness does have relatively short rise - so if you have really high hip bones, then you may want to check out the Solaris which is the female version with higher rise -and looks equally awesome. I also saw one review that complained of the bar-tacks on the side where the 5 webs are sewn into 1. I have no issues at all with that, but i could see maybe if the sizing puts that bar-tack on the point of your hip that maybe it could be a problem, but I suspect that would be rare.
I should also mention another thing I love is is the sizing range. I am a size 33 which puts me dead in-between sizes on nearly every manufacturer. So either I get a large harness that is cinched up all the way putting loops too far forward (and sometimes legs too big) or a medium that is opened up all the way with a big gap in the hip belt which makes it uncomfortable. Elderid makes this with 32-24 right in the middle of their medium range. Why doesn't everyone do this since it is the most common size???
The only cons I see is that it is doesn't pack super small, it is slightly heavy compared to the ultra-lights, it only has 4 gear loops, and it is a little expensive. None of those cons even come close to outweighing everything it offers though.
Hope that helps someone else who would like to climb without pain. I believe this is the best harness out there, just bought a second one for my gym bag too. Thank you Elderid!