Free 2-Day Shipping Over $50 Order by 12/20*
Brent Allen

Brent Allen

Concord, NH

Brent Allen's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Snowboarding
Running
Biking
Yoga
Paddling
Skiing
Climbing

Brent Allen's Bio

Love to climb and snowboard, not to mention be outdoors. Nature rocks. . yea!

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on September 13, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

This is the best deal in quickdraws right now, enough said.

That being said, the wide rope bearing surface and great gate tension on the bent-gate rope end carabiner (silver) keep em feeling great and lasting near forever. Madrock somehow gets their wires tensioned so perfectly.

Get em! maybe get a couple longer bones from another company as well (24cm are awesome!)

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on September 13, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 10"
Weight: 148 lbs
Size Purchased: 9.5

There is nothing out there quite like these. . They are the only shoe that completely hugs my arch and it also points that powerful down-camber right into the big toe. The toe-box is low profile enough to toe in on anything and the stiffness of the edge of the shoe is great when combined with the super soft middle of the shoe and the wrapped last, like a lot of the Sportiva shoes.

Certainly worth the $70+ bucks, and I'm a bit bummed they are being discontinued. . I wouldn't be surprised if a NExx2.0 comes out eventually cause these edge, toe-hook, and heel-hook like a boss without sacrificing good sensitivity. The break in isn't quick, but the toe-box is lined with this super smooth white material that has a bit of cushion and molds to your shape real well and the upper is real soft and packs out to fit your shape.

I got em in 9.5 and they fit my foot very snugly in the toe-box and heel. My foot is 9.5 inches long and my big foot is slightly larger than that and gets a minor hot spot on the top of the big toe. I'm not certain that I could get my foot into a 9.0. . and I wouldn't even be interested in trying. These are performance at foot size and ever so slightly wider than my Solutions (size 6.5) which have the same length as my Nexxo's.

It's been mentioned before that these aren't very downturned, but do function likea downturned shoe due to the extreme downcamber.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on September 13, 2017

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 10"
Weight: 148 lbs
Size Purchased: 9.0

The Luchador laces are great I am almost tempted to buy several pairs since they're discontinued!

9.0 was pretty tight on my 9.5 inch foot, but I wouldn't wanna try and cram em into an 8.5 cause they take too damn long to get on and off, but that being said I can keep em on for 30 minutes without too much pain so there's the possibility of a smaller size if you want your foot bound and unable to flex.

The Luchadors have a lot of padding inside and the sole is STIFF, but the precision angle of the toe and downturned edge really make em amazing for even stout overhangs.

Get em if you want a supportive and stiff shoe for those micro edges, overhangs, and any other style of climbing you can throw at em! They are really similar to the Katana laces btw.

(0)

 

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on September 13, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 10"
Weight: 148 lbs
Size Purchased: 9.5

What makes this shoe so special is that is is almost entirely coated in rubber, yet the rubber patches are thin enough that the whole shoe is very supple and yet the thinness of the sole rubber is remarkably balanced by the midsoles stiffness near the toes.

Supportive, sensitive, powerful, grippy.. everywhere! The toe-box of the 5.10 Team points your big toe almost straight down for some incredible power on any terrain.

Combine the sheer toe-in power with the near-perfect slits in the thin rubber of the heel and toe allows for an, almost, perfect right-out-of-the-box fit and a perfect mold to a medium volume foot. And the confidence to really grip into those powerful friction-y heel hooks and toe hooks.

My foot is almost exactly 9.5 inches long and I got these sized in men's 9.5 and they're performance fitted. I could maybe manage to get a 9.0 on my feet, but it wouldn't be necessary. I like my shoes to fit tight without it feeling like foot binding and I get that perfectly with the 9.5. Get em!

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on September 8, 2017

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Real cool idea. These are great feet and so tiny, even for screw ons. They can eat rubber for breakfast, which is maybe the only downside, other than they are screw ons.

I've only climbed on these and never set with em, but they've been used as the most micro feet in the gym as well as the smallest crimps they've ever put up.. Good stuff!

(0)

 

0 Comments

0 Answers

0 Comments

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on November 4, 2016

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 10"
Weight: 140 lbs
Size Purchased: 9.0

The fit on the Runners is great for me and hugs everywhere! And the fit does remind me a LOT of the 5.10 Blackwings/Dragons, as far as shape and tension goes. I really like the construction of the upper as the gluing and stitching is solid and the mesh is crazy comfortable, as is the velvety black lining inside the shoe. That being said. . .

Crazy Soft and Spongy and Grippy is really the only way to accurately describe the Dark Matter. It seeps into nuances of the rock or plastic and tends to stay nicely when the accurate pressure is applied to counteract the overall softness of the shoe and the sponginess that makes them stretch a bit at the same time.

THESE ARE SOFT SHOES!! The mid-sole isn't too soft, but the fish-hook shape of it only covers about 1cm from the edge of your forefoot. The hollow center of the midsole allows for some serious grip in seriously overhanging terrain on larger holds and lends a lot of flexibility for excellent smearing. The edging isn’t spectacular for vertical dimes or precise overhanging edges, but it is manageable and grippy when smedging (smear-edging). The Dark Matter is, however, super grippy for smears and bumps on any terrain (when the correct amount of pressure is applied to counter the spongy stretch of the rubber).
So iLL's Dark matter rubber is softer and spongier than 5.10's Stealth c4 rubber, Vibram's xs grip rubber, and definitely softer than Evolv's Trax rubber. Any feeling of mild tightness when you first put them on will almost immediately change to 'comfort' as the softness of the shoe rubber molds it hastily to your foot shape and bumps of your toe knuckles within minutes of your first routes. The heel also packs out considerably to help tension the last of the shoe to promote the fit in the toebox and keep the downturn strong. The heel doesn’t get sloppy, but it is incredibly thin and soft so it tends to ‘stretch’ a bit when applied to tiny edges or powerful hooks. Toe Hooks are pretty bomber though.

After only 3 months of climbing plastic (and a bit of rock) in them I can without a doubt say that the rubber is easily the softest rubber on the market. Hands Down, even being a normal 4mm rubber thickness! You can crumple this shoe into a wad of rubber and mesh in your hands. They’ve stretched about a ¼ size and are fully lined. I climb about 15+ hours a week and have used these almost exclusively and the wear is barely starting to show in them. I still don’t prefer them for outdoors, but that’s my personal preference for a stiffer outdoor shoe coming into play, so I can’t speak to their overall outdoor durability though.

My feet are ~9.5 inches long (9.75 on my big foot) and I ordered the 9.0s and they are 'comfortable' w/o being too sloppy to edge or smear reliably. That being said, I have a very average/narrow width fore foot with a high arch and fairly rounded heel so they fit the nuances my foot very well. I also do not have Morton’s toe and tend to like my shoes a bit tighter so they feel ‘fitted’, but still allow me some toe flexibility.
The size of 9.0 So ill Runner is similar to:
5.10 Teams (black) – 10.5
5.10 Blackwings (red) – 9.5

Hope this helps someone out as I was pretty curious before I got my Kickstarter. . If I were to do it over again I probably would have ordered an 8.5 in the Runners to make them into what they’re meant to be, an aggressive super soft and grippy shoe for performance overhang bouldering on porous rock, but I'm content with the 9s for comfort. I think they’ve made my feet stronger and actually improved my footwork as I typically rely on shoes with a stiffer midsole. These shoes grip well, but the Runner definitely makes your toes do more than their fair share of the work.

(0)

 

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on August 29, 2015

always tied up, never let me down
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

My Marathon Pro rope has been great for years of outdoor lead climbing. It's lighter than any other 10.1mm rope and is as supple as any 9.8mm. The 9.8 Sterling Velocity is only lighter by 1g per meter, and the extra durability from the 10.1 is totally worth it.

Get the dry coated sheath for that extra longevity since the Marathon Pro 10.1 doesn't get fat, AND it can take tons of heinous falls with a lighter impact force and great catch. My favorite rope! Can't go wrong with Sterling Marathon Pro 10.1!

(1)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 13, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 10"
Weight: 140 lbs
Size Purchased: S-30

So these pants are awesome. Totally awesome. While they're a bit thicker than most climbing nylon-wear, they seem less like athletic pants to the casual observer. A very adjustable built-in nylon belt and plenty of stretch helps me throw down while bouldering or rope climbing, but when I'm wearing a harness the leg loops tend to press the stitching of the crotch vent holes right into my thighs. So after a few hangs I'll start to feel the abrasiveness of the stitching and it gets a bit distracting when catching falls, on extended belays, or taking repeated whips, but whatever.

The front pockets are double lined mesh for breathability and the cargo pocket is strangely accessibly via the top or side via 2 different zippers and is the same material as the pants itself.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 13, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

This harness is really well engineered and it shows. The hip-belt fits me right where I need it to and is easily more comfortable than the Black Diamond Focus, or Momentum. The front gear loops are well designed and slide/position gear to the front for easy racking. Unfortunately the rear harness loops do not, they are standard half-moon design.

The rope loops have ample space and are probably my favorite feature. You could be tied into 3 ropes and have 2 slings attached and still have room to maneuver more through them, and they're burly and thick!

Noteworthy: The Belay loop is thinner than most harnesses I've seen/used and the metal buckles and the nylon waist/leg straps are also thin. I don't think this impedes quality, but could show wear quicker .

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 13, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I thought I'd tack this on to another order I placed as I didn't currently have any good lotions or balms left for my beaten hands. . That being said, this stuff actually does reduce swelling and pain in the hands/fingers and is made of various natural oils. I like it, and worth the dough. Thoroughly tested after a 3+ hour session on several burly, crimpy, and rather finger unfriendly 5.12 accents at the local plastic crag. My fingers were quite achy, until after some of the crimp oil. .

One other note, "crimp oil" is also made by an independent company and I have yet to determine if Metolius licensed this from Crimp Oil or made their own. .

http://www.crimpoil.com/en/

(0)

 

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 13, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Got this thing and have had a great time so far as I haven't had a new chalk bag in years. . I really loved the green/black coloring and was hoping it would be as good as my Evolv Roundtangular bag so I'd have a spare, and I think they're about the same size. Though this one feels a lot more plush.

PS: The belt wouldn't work well for anyone over a 30-32 inch waist, you'd have to get another band of nylon or cord for it.

(0)

 

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on June 3, 2015

4 5

Height: 5' 10"
Weight: 140 lbs
Size Purchased: 28

Easily the most hipster piece of clothing I own, and I thriftshop. . . They're skinny, but stretch and don't hug my crotch too tightly. I love the Deep Teal color and the denim look. Pockets are large enough to actually hold stuff and people can't see the grapes. 28 waist.

(1)

 

0 Comments

0 Comments

0 Comments

0 Comments

Brent Allen

Brent Allenwrote a review of on December 23, 2013

Love-Gate
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love the gate action and feel of their shape in mah hand for both of these biners. . Who would have guessed that Mad Rock would wind up designing my favorite wire-gate ever?

The gate action is incredibly smooth on the wired end and the gate opening is huge. The keylock end clips well, but is lightweight and strong. My preferred lightweight clips for sport climbing.

(1)

 

0 Comments