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Will B.

Will B.

Will B.

Will B.wrote a review of on July 28, 2019

1 5

Familiarity: I returned this product before using it

I had the first gen Adjama for close to 4 years. Awesome harness - nothing wrong with it I just felt like it was time to get a new one for safety sake. I saw that a new gen Adjama was out and bought it sight-unseen since I liked my current one, so the new one must be better, right?

Wrong.

The first major flaw is that the rear gear loops on either side are jokingly small. If you try to get even 6 draws on them they are so bunched up that the top biners mash into each other and get all jumbled up.

The second and most severe flaw of this harness that in my opinion makes it unusable, is that the gear loops are NOT EVENLY SPACED OUT. When I put on the size medium harness I ordered (I'm a 32" waist) and cinched it down, the right-side gear loops are at approximately 2oclock and 4oclock while the left side gear loops are at approximately 9 o clock and 7oclock. Or, in other words, the harness waistband is rotated about 20-30 degrees counter-clockwise. Meaning that you have to reach to a different spot on your left side then your right side to grab gear. In addition, the rear-most gear loop that is supposed to sit dead-center on the middle of your back, is closer to the 5oclock position. I never had this issue with my last harness and am very surprised that no one has mentioned this yet.

It LOOKS very comfortable and safe, but I sold it without ever using it because of those two main issues that for me, make it unusable.

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Will B.

Will B.wrote a review of on February 7, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

After using this twice, I sold my GriGri and have literally never thought twice about it. For background I climb mainly hard single sport-pitch climbs. I climb between 3 and 5 times per week and have had this device for ~10months. I used to have a Smart Alpine but the braking force was quite weak. Heavier climbers would make it so I still had to hold the rope or it would feed through slowly.

Any belay device can top-rope, so I won't discuss that. But this is the best lead belay device I've ever used, hands down. It brakes very firmly - much more securely than the Smart Alpine. While holding a hanging climber I just put a coil of rope around my hand as a safety and I don't need to apply a single ounce of force to keep the rope locked. In contrast to the super strong braking force, the device is so easy to feed through. Once you get the hang of pulling up on the lever (took me ~2 days in the gym), the device feeds slack easier than anything I've ever used (somehow even easier than non-locking devices). It's also light and SIMPLE (read: not a Wild Country Revo...).

Every person I climb with has since switched over to this device - one person switched from a MegaJul because he said this one provided stronger braking AND easier slack-feeding. Several others got rid of their GriGri's. People complain that you can't rappel with it - deal with it. Get another device for that.

IMPORTANT: Definitely make sure you use this with a Mammut HMS Locking 'Biner. It optimizes braking force and the geometry just works best for the Smart 2.0.

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Will B.

Will B.wrote a review of on July 11, 2017

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've owned two of these ropes, one dry-coated and one non-dry. I climb hard single pitch routes at my limit, so take a lot of falls. The rope has held up well over two seasons but my friends and I often prefer using other ropes because this one feeds through belay devices so quickly. Both ropes I've owned feel a bit harder as if they have a plastic coating on the outside. Even after breaking them in and washing them repeatedly, this feeling remains and the rope doesn't have a satisfying feel to it. It has a harder, slicker feel than many other ropes I've used - most namely most Beals and the Sterling Evolution Velocity. That rope feels significantly more supple and handles so much better while belaying either lead or TR.

This is by no means a bad rope, however. It has a soft catch while not allowing the leader to fall dangerously far (I've climbed with a Petzl Volta 9.4 that stretched far too much, risking decking on outcrops or ledges below). The sheath has also held up very well over the 15+ days I've had it out and I am tough on ropes. I usually lower instead of rappelling (I know, I know, so sue me...) and I often climb at or above my limit often so I take a lot of falls.

Overall it's not a bad rope, but I will not buy one again. I'll most likely go with the Sterling Evo Velocity or a Beal.

FYI oddly enough, the dry-coated version of this rope actually handled better than the non-dry. Not sure why that is, but the non-dry coated rope actually feels more like it has a hard coating on the outside and feeds much faster through ATC's and GriGri's.

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