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Wilbs

Wilbs

Wilbs's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Skiing
Climbing

Wilbs's Bio

Amateur punter, pebble wrestler, and hang-dogger.

Wilbs

Wilbswrote a review of on May 16, 2018

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I bought the Chocky for jamming gym cracks in order to save tape. At first I set the glove too aggressively on my hand and the double elastic bands aggravated the tendons in my smallest finger and my thumb, and even led to a pumped out feeling. I learned to let the gloves rest on my hands instead of feeling taut. The Chocky's have fared well and have been used several times on hand cracks in the Voo and the Creek. Not as precise as taping up, but way more efficient with time and money.

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Wilbs

Wilbswrote a review of on October 18, 2016

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small
Height: 5' 7"
Weight: 170 lbs
Size Purchased: 10

I've worn this shoe for most of the season in Vedauwoo, about 3 months. Thus far this is the go to shoe for any off-width crack or cracks down to fingers. Stiff sole makes heel-toes pleasant and the high top protects the ankles from the crystal lined cracks. The show does just fine in hand size cracks as well. I can really crank down on these shoes without biting pain from edges.

However, the things that make this shoe great for cracks makes them frustrating in other applications. The stiff sole prevents the sensitivity you would get from a moccasym or a mythos, which makes delicate smears and balancey moves feel even more tenuous. It may be selective perception, but I swear that my Mocc's grab everything better than the Astroman's.

Finally, the fit. True to other reviews this shoe fits small. I'm normally a US 9 for climbing shoes and had to settle for a 10 in these. I have wide feet and found that the size 10 accommodates my feet nicely, but if I had to choose again I might pick up a 9.5. The shoe is NOT comfortable after an hour and tends to bite down on the big toe where the rubber meets the leather upper. This may be unique to my foot profile, but it becomes debilitating after a while and makes even easy heel-toes quite painful.

Overall, a solid shoe for cracks and trad. Stiff sole keeps the shoe from flopping at the cost of limited sensitivity. Smaller feet may do better in these.

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Wilbs

Wilbswrote a review of on June 20, 2016

1 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

These gloves initially met my expectations. On first fit they were comfortable and were breathable. However as time went on these gloves rapidly deteriorated from simple, everyday use which did not include big wipeouts.

I purchased these in August 2015 (not from Backcountry mind you) and by November the velcro closure stopped sticking and would flap around during rides. This was not a dealbreaker, but it was disappointing. At the same time the gloves were wearing holes along the finger joints, logos were peeling off the back of the glove, and the material enabling touch screen operation was beginning to peel. Individually, none of these are dealbreakers, but the sum of these issues is lots of disappointment and the realization that these gloves are made cheap.

Today is the final straw. The nose-wipe cloth tore next to the seam joining the palm. If I rode harder and/or hard I would expect this kind of breakdown from a glove. These gloves cannot stand 3 months or riding without experiencing severe wear-and-tear. This product is absolute garbage. Spend your money elsewhere.

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Wilbs

Wilbswrote a review of on May 17, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

I graduated to the Instincts after using the lace up Vapors for about a year. The shoe shines in a variety of settings. It is stiff enough for hard redpoints on overhangs, but still offers enough sensitivity that you can "feel" around with your feet. These are my go-to shoe for redpoints, onsights, and flash attempts.

The fit is surprisingly comfortable for an aggressive shoe. I wear 42 to 42.5 in street shoes and the Instincts feel great at 41. There is a knuckle box (same idea as Evolv's Love Bump) in the toe that provides leverage without pain. I have wider feet and expected to suffer in these shoes, but they have been surprisingly comfortable.

Overall a great shoe for anyone looking to up their game.

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