WelshGuywrote a review of La Sportiva Oxygym Climbing Shoe on October 17, 2018
Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
(An update from my previous review). I’m on my 3rd pair of these and I have to say they are stable and edge well. I typically climb 5.10’s & 5.11s and I’ve not once been disappointed.
So from a technical perspective;
Edging. I can stick my feet into a corner of a small chip and be confident that they will hold. I’m actually surprised on how well they stick.
Toe holding. They stand up well to having toe fronts on chips, however I usually tighten the shoe up pretty/very tight on these kinds of technical climbs. The reason for this is so that I get compression at the front and the shoe design allows easy adjustment with the Velcro straps (a big plus).
Smearing. These are sticky when you smear. They are a bit less compliant than Mythos or 5.10’s Anasazi’s. So smearing is not amazing but you have to compromise stiffness for stickiness. These shoes are the right kind of stiff and stick for me.
Toe jams in cracks. The freaking hurt like a trail of biting fire ants on your arches!! The sole is not stiff enough IMO.
Fit. As I mentioned I use these on relatively technical climbs. I cinch the shoes tight as I prefer the stability when the shoe is stiff and by being filled with my hobbit feet !! So with that said, I have wide-ish feet and relatively square toes (mild taper) which means that Mythos are way too thin for me. My feet spill over the sides of Mythos soles, whereas with these my feet sit right at the rand/sole intersection where they should. I’m normally a 12.5US Street but I’ve sized mine to be 45 EU (11.5 US) and I’m happy in them all day in the gym. I just loosen or tighten the Velcro as needed. My feet aren’t crammed but they are very snug.
Heel hooks. As these are relatively flat, this is where they aren’t as good. The heel is there but the bowl is not as pronounced so you don’t get as much grip but they do work if you are more aggressive with your foot stretching.
Negatives. I really can’t fault these too much. The rubber does seem to wear down relatively quickly (similar to Mythos in my experience - I’m doing more technical stuff now so that may not be fair c.f. to my Mythos. I would say they wear a bit slower than Mythos). I’m ready to re-sole a couple of pairs and hopefully I can get the Frixion rubber as I really like this formulation. Enough stickiness with enough support. I’m a bigger guy of 230lbs and these hold me very well. Again, another amazing thing about this technology that it can stand up to incredible pressures without splitting or leaving marks in the sole.
Basically I love these shoes. It’s taken me a lot of different shoes to settle on these for gym work. They work well for Boldering and climbing.