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WelshGuy

WelshGuy

sf bay Area

WelshGuy's Bio

Into pretty much anything outdoorsy. Climbing, backpacking and motorcycles!

WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on October 17, 2018

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

(An update from my previous review). I’m on my 3rd pair of these and I have to say they are stable and edge well. I typically climb 5.10’s & 5.11s and I’ve not once been disappointed.

So from a technical perspective;

Edging. I can stick my feet into a corner of a small chip and be confident that they will hold. I’m actually surprised on how well they stick.

Toe holding. They stand up well to having toe fronts on chips, however I usually tighten the shoe up pretty/very tight on these kinds of technical climbs. The reason for this is so that I get compression at the front and the shoe design allows easy adjustment with the Velcro straps (a big plus).

Smearing. These are sticky when you smear. They are a bit less compliant than Mythos or 5.10’s Anasazi’s. So smearing is not amazing but you have to compromise stiffness for stickiness. These shoes are the right kind of stiff and stick for me.

Toe jams in cracks. The freaking hurt like a trail of biting fire ants on your arches!! The sole is not stiff enough IMO.

Fit. As I mentioned I use these on relatively technical climbs. I cinch the shoes tight as I prefer the stability when the shoe is stiff and by being filled with my hobbit feet !! So with that said, I have wide-ish feet and relatively square toes (mild taper) which means that Mythos are way too thin for me. My feet spill over the sides of Mythos soles, whereas with these my feet sit right at the rand/sole intersection where they should. I’m normally a 12.5US Street but I’ve sized mine to be 45 EU (11.5 US) and I’m happy in them all day in the gym. I just loosen or tighten the Velcro as needed. My feet aren’t crammed but they are very snug.

Heel hooks. As these are relatively flat, this is where they aren’t as good. The heel is there but the bowl is not as pronounced so you don’t get as much grip but they do work if you are more aggressive with your foot stretching.

Negatives. I really can’t fault these too much. The rubber does seem to wear down relatively quickly (similar to Mythos in my experience - I’m doing more technical stuff now so that may not be fair c.f. to my Mythos. I would say they wear a bit slower than Mythos). I’m ready to re-sole a couple of pairs and hopefully I can get the Frixion rubber as I really like this formulation. Enough stickiness with enough support. I’m a bigger guy of 230lbs and these hold me very well. Again, another amazing thing about this technology that it can stand up to incredible pressures without splitting or leaving marks in the sole.

Basically I love these shoes. It’s taken me a lot of different shoes to settle on these for gym work. They work well for Boldering and climbing.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a question about on May 18, 2018

My question is, how much better is this than using a cam at the ground (shoulder height) as an upward redirect and then having your belayer belay through that ? Also anchor your belayer to a tree (with the spare part of your rope end) so they don’t get sucked upwards. You now have a shock absorber from the belayer to the tree too. I’m just trying to reason why $129 is justifiable. Thoughts ? I have the big guy/smaller belayer issue too.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on November 9, 2017

2 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These work for hanging small things but unfortuntely the gates open really easily and they become unclipped. This is especially true for keys and the like. I use them for my chalk bag but for anything else they are rubbish. The gates bend to the side and can become fully open all the time. The carabiner itself is reasonable but the gate is way too flimsy.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on August 14, 2017

3 5

These carabiners are great for a lightweight racking 'biner, however I've noticed that the quality is not as good as other major brands. The issue is that where the wire gate joins the body of the 'biner there are drill burrs still. Also the button formation on the gate wire is not properly done and as a result the stamped button has sharp lips. This is to be expected to some extent on all wiregate 'biners but it seems that these are worse than normal due to misalignment of the button forming tool. I had to file the button circumference slightly to remove sharp edges so that I don't get potential cuts in my draws/slings. Be warned. And when I say 'file' I'm talking a very small amount just to remove the 'v' sharp edge of the button.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on July 22, 2017

Absolutely love it
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

To be honest I've tried other harnesses on and I just can't get anything as comfortable and durable as this one. It's so good I now have 2! One for the gym and one for outside. It seems to have everything right for me. Good support on my back and no circulation cutoff when hanging. Have used it for 4 years so far. Will keep on using them as both haven't shown any significant wear at all. Washes well too.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on September 20, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Height: 6' 1"
Size Purchased: 11.5

I wear 11.5 shoes and these fit perfectly in the same size. I have wide hobbit feet and as a result I wanted something that would conform to my feet a bit better than my thinner mythos. What I really like about these is that I can now nail outside edging perfectly as the sole is that bit wider hence no toe overlap on the edge. The shoe is more aggressive than Mythos (but not painfully so). On the downside, I have found that they do not breathe like the Mythos so the sweat stays inside the shoe. In 80F heat you'll find that you'll slide inside the shoe after a couple of hours of cragging. Answer: Take off the shoes for a while !! However the positive is that the shoe is comfortable enough to keep it on all the time !! :-)

If you're doing a size comparison to Mythos: Mythos=10.5UK/11.5US/44EU, Oxygym=10.5UK/11.5US/45EU

There is a discrepancy between the EU sizes for some reason. Both fit me the same. Mythos have stretched though.

Price-wise, I think they are good value.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on August 2, 2015

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I bought an XL pair and they fit me perfectly. They are incredibly durable and allow you keep the feel of the rope. I've used them for lead belaying (ATC and Gri Gri) and rappelling/abseiling (using an ATC) as well as jugging ropes. All I can say is that they are wonderful. If you are lowering a second on a GriGri (which I've done) these are a must. The rope will burn you quckly and the forces on the GriGri will hurt the palm of your hand when modulating the lever during lowering. So with that said the only issue I have is: I hope I don't lose them or they don't get stolen !!

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on November 23, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I wanted some lightweight apline draws that I could make for my trad rack. However I never liked the feeling of the hook part when trying to un-load the rope. The rope seemed to always snag.

Anyway I decided to mix and match. My alpine draws now consist of Neutrino's on one end and Oz's on the other (the rope side = Oz's). Color coded and same feel on both ends.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on November 23, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The 'biners are just the right size for many applications. Using them for an alpine draw using nylon slings, thinner dynema and for tying your rope w/ a clove hitch, they work. The clove-hitch rope is a stretch but they are useable in a pinch. On draws they are easy to clip. A+ for the gate action and the gate registration when they snap shut.

Now as far as the color matching, yep they do vary. But really, do you care that much ?? Purple is still purple even if it's slightly darker/lighter !!

Big plus is that they are cheap. You can use them as bail 'biners if you have to and leave them as a gift to someone else's bounty!!

Basically these are my go-to 'biners

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on November 23, 2014

2 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

The 'biners are definitely light and are good if you use thin ropes and have smaller hands. The issue is that the gates don't open as wide as other biners so on a 10mm rope it's harder to get the rope to clip in. IMO this is the last thing you need on a draw. If you're using for other things like anchor setup etc they're great. But why carry extra gear just for anchors ???

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on November 15, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

This ATC guide is bomber. I've rapped on it and belayed on it and it's got the scratches to show it's being used. Apart from scratches it still functions fine since the scratches are on the outside from me dinging it.

It get's a bit warm when I rap on it (I use high friction mode), but that friction has to dissipate somewhere.

Really I can't give this device anymore praise. It's simple and it works. Exactly what you need when you're brain is worn out after a long climb!!

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on June 30, 2014

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

[Update 03/15] I've been using these things for quite a while and I have to say that I'm not as impressed as I was originally. Unfortunately you can pop the gate to the wrong side of the 'biner too easily. As a result I'm not so sure about putting critical things on them such as car keys. Good for chalk bags/tape still (double up on them)

[Original review]
These little 'biners are great. They are small and useful for attaching things like chalk bags, finger tape and keys 'n' stuff to your harness without being too heavy. They are not weight bearing but they are useful. I've bought some cheap ones from China in the past and they don't hold a candle to these guys. These are made with quality materials and look great.

These guys are 1.25" tall and have a wire-gate.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on April 13, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

This device is great and compact. However it is pretty painful to use being so small. I found that you need a honking big 'biner to give it a jug which kinda defeats the purpose. I tried smaller 'biners and you end up pushing it up by holding the rope and sliding it up. It works well for what it is 'An Emergency Ascender' however I can also see many other uses like a ratcheting pulley system for rescue. As a result I'm rating it 5 stars as it can be adapted to many things and is so light that it's worth having a couple on your gear sling. For ascending, make sure you back up with a grigri or tie-in knots at regular intervals (alternate tie-ins to your harness).

If you're going to do a lot of ascending, get some jumars.

My biggest concern is if you take a fall on one of these. The teeth are at a sharp angle and will bite into the rope. Will they damage the rope ? I'd like to see some fall tests by Wild Country. In essence the teeth are like a sharp edge of a cliff.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on April 7, 2014

2 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

This Gear Sling is an excellent idea. However for those of us with a 44"+ chest size this thing doesn't give you enough room to breathe. It's way to constrictive for people such as me. The best thing Metolius could do is to have the extender part fold back onto itself to neatly tuck the adjustment end away. Maybe a simple sewn loop on the shoulder where the adjustment end can be looped and folded back under would work for smaller sling lengths. Us bigger people would be able to undo that part and release the extra length.

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WelshGuy

WelshGuywrote a review of on November 7, 2013

Nice Pants
5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Fit: True to size

These pants are true to size and have a great fit. They may be a little stiff for gym climbing but I'm sure they'll hold up for outside walls and faces. They'll probably loosen up in the wash too!

The pants are stylish and can be worn as a casual pant and not just for technical climbing/hiking.

I ordered the gun-metal color and the color is great. A nice earthy-green tone (blend between brown/green). The stitching looks like it is well made too and accents the pants nicely.

For us climbing folk who have big quads, these are great as they have plenty of room. I typically buy +2 inch size waist so that I have more maneuvering space inside my climbing pants. This is what I did with these and they seem to be a good fit.

On the negative side, you'll need a separate belt. Personally I wish they had a draw-string inside as this is more comfortable than having a belt. So if you product design folk are reading, please put a drawstring on the next revision!! :-)

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