Patrick Masonwrote a review of Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoe on February 14, 2017
Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs large
These shoes are incredibly good, very sticky, very comfy. The Two strap closure means that they fit almost as snuggly as lace ups (think LS Muiras) with all the convenience of Velcro.
The only cons are the toe rubber only convers about half the toe, leaving a seam exposed that you can wear through pretty quick if you toe hook a lot, and the heel doesn't have rubber on the sides, so if you have off axis heel hooks you are on the Synthetic 'leather' material instead of grippy rubber.
Sizing is big. I wear a 10.5 in evolve Shaman and a 44/45 in La Sportiva anything, I have these in 10 for all day (2-3 hour gym session) wear, but could wear a 9.5 for aggressive fit with no problem.
The only shoe that I think is better than this in its category is the Butora Acro, but the Tenaya Oasi's are very deserving of a 5 star rating.
Update: After about 7 1/2 months of almost exclusive use (8or 9hours a week avg) I have finally worn through the toe. I can probably climb another week before I absolutely have to retire them so that I can get them resoled. The ONLY bad thing I could say about this shoe is that it seems to smell even worse than your average climbing shoe. I just ordered another pair, so that I never have to be without them.