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Noel

Noel

JTree, Tram, Red Rocks

Noel's Bio

I Boulder~

Noel

Noelwrote a review of on April 15, 2015

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 7"
Weight: 139 lbs
Size Purchased: 38.0

I don't exactly remember what I said but I'll try my best to recall the main points:</br>

1. This shoe fits PERFECTLY for my foot shape. I tend to downsize only by a half size (i.e. half a cm, 38.0). This size is perfect but if temps are warm, this size is unbearably painful due to foot swelling (which is natural in warm temps). However during winter months (prime climbing season), that's not a problem and this shoe performs like no other. You're pretty much cheating by wearing this shoe.</br>

2. The only problem with this shoe is the closure system; it's literally made to expedite the shoe's obsolescence. However just wrap a piece of athletic tape around the points that come through the loop holes..this will extend the lifetime of the shoe dramatically!

(0)

 

Noel

Noelwrote a review of on October 4, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

Hands down. Best shoe I've worn. Toe is solid, heel fits perfect. The shoe will stretch a little so size down by a half inch (1/2") euro size, which comes out to about a centimeter?

My only criticism is that damn closer system. But I've figured out a way to extend the life of the straps, right from the get-go:

1. Put the shoes on and tighten them up a bit
2. Mark the point of each strap where it goes through the metal loop. This is the point in which the straps should see the most wear/tear
3. Take a piece of athletic tape and wrap that area, TWO FOLDS MAX, the long way. You don't want to go over that as it will already be thick with the two folds

That's pretty much it. The tape will absorb the majority of the beating, AND you can always replace it when it wears down a bit too much. Don't make the strip too short otherwise when you pull the straps through, the tape will bunch up. Longer strips are easier to "unbunch". I would recommend about a two-inch (2") piece of tape per strap/loop.

If you got questions about this, feel free to hit me up!

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Noel

Noelwrote a review of on April 25, 2011

5 5

The shoe's only real flaw is that toe patch. I can see how over time it'll peel off but other than that it has a thin heel, great snug fit, and the toe box makes it feel almost like cheating! Ridiculously great shoe. Sizing....I would go try them on first. I wear a Katana 37.5 and a Miura VS 38. However I wear a Evolv Predator G2 7.5 and an Evolv Evo 2011 7.0, so if you do the conversions they don't necessarily make sense.

The only true way I was able to ever size these perfectly were to just find a place to try them on, which I had to do in Bishop. It's well worth it to make the effort though as it'll save you some time and hassle later~

(0)

 

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