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Matt C.

Matt C.

Matt C.

Matt C.wrote a review of on April 23, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: True to size
Height: 6' 1"
Weight: 190 lbs
Size Purchased: 12 (45.5)

I bought these in a pinch to climb 12,500' Mt. Morrison in the Sierra Nevada during winter when my Nepal Evo's were on loan to a friend. They actually worked well for that class 3 snow climb. I certainly was not frontpointing and wasn't kicking steps either. Slopes were up to 45 at times but snow was soft so it was easy to get purchase with my strap on crampons and these boots. My feet were fairly moist after the 6 hour approach to the base of the climb where we camped. Down camp booties were essential. The next morning they were mostly dry after using them as my pillow (the standard method I use on winter alpine climbs - works great!).

Most of all, these things are really light! I got by with them on a winter climb, but the Trango S EVO's are really the right tool for that job. I am planning on using these to fill the niche between a summer hiking shoe and my Nepal Evo's. 4 season backpacking, 3 season scrambling up class 3 peaks (maybe, might stick to low top approach shoes for this purpose), maybe some shoulder season peak bagging when I expect snow and strap on crampons. In that sense, they are pretty niche. I suspect they would be a perfect backpacking boot for the PNW where rain is always possible and temps are cool. In the Sierra, I am concerned about the gore-tex liner causing my feet to sweat and blister up in summer conditions. Can't comment on that yet.

I wear an 11.5 street size. I wear 45.5 in the Nepal's. I got these in a 45.5 and they fit perfect. They were SO comfortable right out of the box. Just wish they weren't so ugly!

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Matt C.

Matt C.wrote a review of on April 21, 2016

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have had this since 2004 and used it regularly for many, many backpacking, camping, and climbing trips. It has held up well. I have only serviced it about 3 times, which is about 10 times less than recommended, but it has worked great nontheless. A couple notes: 1. it definitely does not simmer well. It burns hot. 2. it collects soot pretty quickly and this starts to affect the burn quality. 3. Perhaps both of these are related to the fact that I have only cleaned it every 3-4 years!

I bought this thing before I was super weight conscious and I am really glad to see it is over 3 oz lighter than the whisperlite. Ultra light mountaineers - consider picking one up before it disappears! I have only recently started winter mountaineering but it works great for melting snow. I would like to get one of those new heat diffuser pots and expect the combination to make this stove my full time winter stove without the need to buy a new 4 season stove.

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Matt C.

Matt C.wrote a review of on June 27, 2014

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Fit: True to size

pros - ultra compressible and light weight
cons - no pit zips, sleeves are too long

First off, I'm 6'1", 195 lbs, I ordered the XL so that I could layer it over insulation layers. The sizing is perfect for this purpose, except the sleeves are too long. This is annoying, and I overcome it by rolling the sleeve cuff up a few times, but that isn't an ideal solution and definitely wouldn't work well in the rain. If I was purchasing this jacket and wasn't planning on layering it over a down puffy, I would get the L.

My primary intended use was emergency storm pro for backpacking/climbing. The stuff-it-in-it's-own-pocket and clip it to your harness/pack feature was something I valued a great deal and it hasn't disappointed. It compresses nicely and clip loop makes it convenient. But I haven't actually climbed with it clipped to my harness yet and honestly it would be a rare circumstance that I would do so, because it's a little big. It would be like having an extra, full chalk bag clipped on. More likely I'd have it on a multi pitch climb where I had a small climbing pack and I would stuff it inside. But I have clipped it to a small pack where space was limited and that was convenient.

More importantly, I am amazed at how versatile this thing is. You can stuff it anywhere for emergency storm protection. On a recent work trip to boulder, I stuffed it in my laptop case and had it for chilly air conditioned rooms, and then I was ready to hit the trail after work with no worries about afternoon t-storms. Then I threw it in my carry on for a flight to NYC and it doens't take up any space but provides the emergency storm pro that it's designed for, plus a little warmth/comfort on the plane.

Can't comment on durability yet. Originally I would have only recommended this as a really specialized item, for ultralight backpacking and climbing. After owning it for a couple months, it also makes a great travel shell.

Gave it four stars for no pit zips and long sleeves.

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