Markuswrote a review of Scarpa Mago Climbing Shoe - Vibram XS Grip2 on February 27, 2013
I bought them off eBay and they were a real bargain.
They are great on small footholds and yes they are really precise and pretty versatile. But after all i have to say they do nothing better than the vapor LU. The only difference to me is the magos are killer to break in while the vapor is comfy out of the box.
Those are not as good on overhangs as their brother and sister (booster/rockette) since they are really stiff in the toe because of that TPS thing.
Don�t get me wrong i really love that TPS and i do like stiff shoes a lot for route climbing. But if i�m looking for a stiff shoe for killer edging the Vapor Lace Up does the trick better because they are pretty much the same stiffness and do have the same power on the big toe. The major differnce is i can wear the vapor way longer without pain.
Also for real technical stuff, where a lot of changig on small footholds is required, the Mago is to asymetric an that makes footswaps hard.
They are a lot "pointier" in the big toe compared to the booster which makes them a lot better for pockets. But the TPS makes them loose a lot of sensitivity compared to the booster.
I would love the magos if they would come with XS Edgs instead of the XS Grip2. I don�t see the sence of such a stiff shoe made with soft rubber. The biggest limitation on small holds is the rubber wrapping around and not beeing firm enough "to stand on nothing".