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Mailee

Mailee

Mailee

Maileewrote a review of on November 22, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love the Katana Laces so much that I've bought multiple pairs just in case Sportiva decides to stop making them one day. I also love them enough that I'm writing a review about them.

I own way more pairs of climbing shoes than I ought to and these ones consistently give me the very best performance. They're stiff, gently downturned, and perfect edging machines. If your project has technical footwork you can't go wrong with them. They especially excel at steep and vertical face climbing that require super precise footwork. I've sent my top sport and bouldering projects in them on granite, volcanic rock, and sandstone. They've become my lucky charms. Even the heel feels secure for me—there's a little bit of dead space that can be freaky feeling but not enough to blow any but the most finicky of heel hooks. Plus, they're COMFORTABLE. Ideal for less than 5 pitches but I've made it work for longer before. The little sock lining is such a nice touch—cozy and breathable.

The only time I don't reach for these is for cave climbing when I find a very soft shoe with a more aggressive downturn (and more toe rubber) is helpful. Otherwise, these do it all. I'm told people love these for thin crack climbing too, which I could see working for shallow jams...but they're downturned enough that a day of secure footjamming is going to make you and your toe knuckles very sad. Trust me.

Sizing: my street shoe is EU 36 and I have a wide-ish forefoot. I got these in a 35.5 and they're absolutely perfect—not bone-crushingly tight like I wear my bouldering shoes but tight enough for precise performance. They do stretch but not much in my experience.

Miura VS - 34 (performance)
Testarossa - 34.5 (performance)
Mythos - 34.5 (comfy)
Katana Lace - 35.5
TC Pro - 35.5 (comfy)
Evolv Agro - 37.5 (performance)
FiveTen Blackwing - 37.5 (stupid tight)

Hope this helps someone make the good decision to pull the trigger on these. Seriously, you won't regret it!

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Mailee

Maileewrote a review of on August 15, 2016

Matte black delamination
2 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've had this helmet for two years now, and have worn it basically every day for commuting and longer rides. I will say that it's light, breathable, and while it was holding together it looked pretty snazzy. I never used the visor but it felt like good quality, and overall the materials are very pleasing to the touch and eye.

That being said, about 6 months ago the whole thing started falling apart. The thin plastic shell delaminated from the rest of the helmet, turning into useless strips that flapped against the foam in the wind. I ended up ripping two of these off because they were so annoying (and you can see from the picture that the rest are delamming too), so honestly the thing is probably useless in a crash at this point (not to mention no longer waterproof). I never took a spill in it, and I don't think I treated it indelicately. I might've gotten a dud, but I'm pretty unhappy with the quality.

Another thing that never worked was the rubber strip meant to hold the excess webbing for the chin strap in place; this always slipped and is a bit of a nuisance to deal with.

All in all, I love the aesthetic and I think it functioned quite well on longer rides, but I can't recommend it due to the delamination.

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Mailee

Maileewrote a question about on October 17, 2013

How do these compare to Five Ten Moccs in terms of fit and sizing? I have small feet that are a bit wider at the toes, and I got the Moccs in a 36 (M4.5, W6). They're very comfy, maybe a teensy bit loose after lots of wear and a resole. My street shoe is a solid 36, somewhere between W5.5-6. I have narrow heels, but I'm concerned the LVs will be too narrow in the toe.

(0)

 

Mailee

Maileewrote a review of on September 19, 2013

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I had a grey version of this chalk bag from when I first started climbing and I loved it. It's on the smaller side, so it was perfect for my hands. It has a slightly rounded shape that leaves a lot of room for rolling around in chalk and/or squeezing an overstuffed chalk ball without being too high volume. I definitely prefer it to the classic cylinder shape. The material is soft and has good abrasion resistance, although the lip could be a little stiffer. The drawcord pull is amazingly smooth. 3 years of continuous use and it worked like new; all these features add up to a chalk bag worth stealing, apparently!

(1)

 

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Mailee

Maileewrote a question about on August 27, 2013

How are these for slab or big wall stuff? I'm looking for a versatile shoe to round out my current collection. My Sportiva Pythons are too aggressive to be comfortable on longer pitches, and I find that my 5.10 moccs provide very little support and cause foot cramps on slabbier things (plus the edging's not stellar on 'em, but for how comfy they are generally I can't complain). How do the Katanas compare?

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Mailee

Maileewrote a review of on August 14, 2013

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

I love this jacket. This was the first Arc'teryx item I've ever owned, and it certainly won't be the last. Not only is it extremely breathable and comfortable, but the cut is very flattering! Somehow it manages to nip in the waist a bit to show off your shape without being to restrictive or sacrificing any insulation. I love the stretchy side panels for breathability, and I never feel a chill in those areas in particular so they do their job well without letting in the cold. It has a lot of shoulder mobility and I felt comfortable climbing in it. It's great as a stand alone piece for chilly days and as a warm mid layer for colder ones. Anything too cold (nearing 40 degrees F) and I would go to the Atom SV. It's slightly wind resistant but not by much, so I wouldn't count on it to keep out much wind chill.

The interior pocket is really nice and roomy, and the zippers pull like a dream. The gasket cuffs are very comfortable and great for keeping the warmth in, but they do make it a little difficult to layer underneath if your base layer has thumbholes. Water beads right off it when it's clean--if you don't wash it often enough it starts to get a bit waterlogged, so that's something to be aware of if you're packing it for long trips without access to washing.

Speaking of packing, this thing is so light and packable that it's practically weightless. I've shoved it into some pretty tiny purses while out on the town! The only downside I've found is that it doesn't stuff into a pocket that you can then clip to a harness...it does stuff into its own sleeve, but that doesn't help if you're up a crag.

All in all, this piece is worth every penny. It's super versatile, well made and looks great to boot.

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Mailee

Maileewrote a review of on August 14, 2013

3 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: True to size

I love Prana's Chakra fabric and I am no stranger to short shorts, so I really wanted to love these. I got them for bouldering and running and tried them out for both several times before giving up. The rise and wide waistband were absolutely perfect, and even the 3in inseam was exactly what I wanted...but they roll up constantly! Full disclosure, I do carry some extra weight in my thighs, so I may simply need a longer inseam to get something as close-fitting as these shorts to stay down. But if you have slim thighs, I think this will be perfect! Great performance and fit, just didn't work for me. I even tried sizing up to a small and they were just baggy and did the exact same thing. Bummer.

(2)

 

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