Jaimewrote a review of So Ill Holds Runner LV Climbing Shoe on May 10, 2017
Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions
Fit: Runs small
I'll admit, the first reason I wanted these was simply the color scheme. I think these are hands down the coolest climbing shoes ever made, so I was hoping they would live up to the hype.
I'm a male but have narrow feet and as mentioned earlier I loved the colors which is why I went with the LV instead of the regular Runner. So Ill recommends 2 sizes up for guys (all LV shoes are sized in Women's sizing) from street shoe size and it is Spot On. Originally they recommended 1 1/2 sizes up and that was just too small. I'm an 8 street shoe so I ordered the 10. I ordered the 9.5 during the kickstarter and I just couldn't do it, especially knowing they wouldn't really stretch. And I've broken in a couple pairs of Miura VS's, so if you've owned Miura's you know how painful that process can be until they stretch haha.
Anyways, about the shoes themselves. Only climbed in them once so far in the gym but they seemed to do pretty darn great. I wasn't looking for an all day comfy shoe and I didn't size them to be that way either, so for what I want them for they are doing great. I honestly bought them for harder routes in the gym because they are cheaper than my Miura's but I'm definitely going to test them on some projects I have at the local crags soon too.
The rubber felt soft and sticky on all types of holds. I felt stable at all times and never had any foot placement issues. Given the downturn form and stiffer soles, these wouldn't be great for smearing, but that expected in my opinion from agressive shoes. However, the rubber is soft/sticky enough it probably wouldn't do too bad if you needed to smear.
My main concern right now would be how long the rubber last since it seems soft. Which is great for sticking on everything but in the long run it would suck if I burned through these shoes pretty quick. Time will tell.
I really love what So Ill is doing with their shoes, as long as the quality proves to last I will definitely come back for more and try some other models as well, because c'mon, you can never have too many pairs of climbing shoes =)
Lastly, I mostly sport climb with little bouldering. Maybe 70/30 sport to bouldering