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Greg

Greg

Southern California

Greg's Bio

I train dogs and climb lead solo

Greg

Gregwrote a review of on January 13, 2020

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Nice rope bag. Has held up well and trap is wide. Initially used as gym bag: fits pre flaked 70m rope, beanie, harness, etc. At the crag this is a great way to protect / manage your rope, but kinda sucks as an approach pack.

For approach found it best to wrap in straps and toss it in an a proper pack.

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Greg

Gregwrote a review of on December 23, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

The ATC guide is a solid device. Easy to use at the gym or crag. It's also the ATC device I've seen most when looking at intermediate to advanced climbers gear. This is the version for skinny ropes.

It has really good friction when belaying or rappelling and is bomber for multi pitch. In guide mode ( multi pitch) it has an autoblock feature for belaying / lowering that gives an additional peace of mind.

Exchanged for the normal guide because I generally use bigger ropes, but debating purchasing again for more confidence when using skinny twin ropes.

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Greg

Gregwrote a review of on December 23, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Started with a grigri, but used this once and knew I wanted it. Solid device that I use for rope solo ( TRS and LS), lead belay, and top rope.

The lifeguard feeds smooth, closer to an atc than a grigri. Climbing partners who come from ATC devices like it, although they say nothing feeds like an atc, than an atc - so ymmv

Feeding slack is smooth, solid catch, and smaller size wise than grigri. I've taken many falls lead solo and haven't hit a backup knot. If you're looking at rope solo recommend this over Eddy / grigri. If you're climbing with a partner, also bulletproof.

Tip: if you feed/take slack using the lead style vs top rope style of belaying you'll only get a lockup during a fall. That said still feeds good either way

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Greg

Gregwrote a review of on November 7, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Some of the strongest slings out, nice feel, and dynamic. Held up well so far ( 6 months ).

I use 120 & 150 to equalize ground anchors for leading rope solo, also 150 makes good top rope anchors. 60cm is used to extend gear via tie ins, but looking at the dynamic pas as an upgrade.

My primary pas is a 150cm sling with an 8 and overhand. It's about 2x the length of my metrolios dyneema pas with piece of mind due to rating / dynamic. I generally use it to clip into bolts before I go to clip and definitely prefer this to my previous dymeena

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Greg

Gregwrote a review of on October 20, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Fell in love with the lifeguard at the gym. Fed for lead so well I grabbed one for myself. The lifeguard has been great for lead solo top rope solo, lead w/ belay, top rope, and replaces a grigri for ascending. Lowering / rappels isn't as smooth as grigri, but works after getting used to the device. Have had a few new climbers take a few minutes to figure out the anti panic handle, other than that only reason I'd go with another device would be maybe the birdie to handle 8.5 static roles

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