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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitney

Santa Cruz, CA

Francis Whitney's Passions

Climbing
Biking
Skiing

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on December 13, 2018

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Love this harness. I was looking for a comfortable multi-pitch/alpine rock harness and tried a bunch before spending the cash on this one. It’s worth it. I can easily carry a double rack plus anchor gear on the gear loops. A water bottle, jacket in stuff sack, and emergency gear go on the haul loop. I usually wear my harness on the approach, but it packs small when I carry it in my pack and doesn’t weigh much. I’ve since started climbing alpine ice and it excels there too. It isn’t the most comfortable harness, but I’ll take the weight savings over total comfort, and this is a fairly comfy harness.

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on August 20, 2018

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I’ve used this and the BD ATC guide for several years now and definitely prefer the BD. The Reverso is a tiny bit lighter, but also not as strong. It handles skinny ropes better, so I use it with my 8mm doubles. I’m not a fan of how the Reverso hangs sideways in guide mode and prefer the BD when belaying that way.

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on August 20, 2018

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I’ve used this and the Petzl Reverso for a few years now. The BD is heavier, but more robust. It handles thicker ropes better, but I’ll use my Reverso with my 8mm doubles. I definitely prefer the way the BD hangs in guide mode to the Reverso. (Facing you as opposed to the Reverso being 90 degrees off) I find rope management easier this way.

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on April 8, 2018

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Bought this for a trip to Red Rock. I was taking a friend that’s new to climbing and a bit older out, so I wanted to carry everything except her personal gear to make life easier on her. It took me awhile to decide on the 35l vs 50l and I’m glad I went with the 35l. Any bigger and the pack would likely be too heavy! I stuffed a half gallon water, double trad rack, anchor gear, light jacket, first aide kit, food, helmet, and strapped the rope on top. It was heavy, but carried the load well. I did a lot of scrambling and the weight didn’t shift, and it’s pretty damn comfy.

The materiel is burly and this pack has great pockets for organization. I really liked the way the pack stands up so easily. It makes loading/unloading a breeze, especially with the full length zipper. (It’s a double ended zipper so you can access things at the bottom without dumping stuff from the top)

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on November 15, 2017

1 5

Fit: Runs large
Height: 5' 11"
Weight: 185 lbs
Size Purchased: Large

One of my female friends bought the ladies version of this vest and when I saw it I couldn't wait to get one for myself. To my great disappointment Patagonia has chosen to treat us men as if all we care about is matching our outfits and given us the "super useful" reversible vest, while the ladies get an awesome hood for their version. Lame-sauce. With a hood this would be a killer vest, but I'm not plunking down two bills for this version, and don't like being treated as someone that cares more about color choice than functiality in the wilderness. (And yes, this review is semi in jest. A hood would make this worth the price, but without it's just not as cool.)

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on November 15, 2017

2 5

Familiarity: I returned this product before using it

I was really looking forward to these. The fit around the waist is perfect, but without snaps/zipper fly getting them over my thighs is challenging. I almost thought I was gonna rip these things apart just putting them on. The material is also much too light weight for me. If I was gonna go for something this light I'd go full roadie and wear spandex, then again as a dedicated endur-bro I'd rather wear a tutu than these lame-o shorts.

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on August 26, 2017

5 5

Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 11"
Weight: 185 lbs
Size Purchased: 33x11

I dig these. I had my doubts about the tighter fit of these than my usual cargo shorts, but I move much better, and definitely climb better, in these than the loose fit I was used to. These are a tough-ish material with no stretch, but they move with you rather than stick to your legs. Plus, my lady says they look good on me. Hahahaha!

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on August 25, 2017

2 5

Familiarity: I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I guess this works to carry your stuff in and out of the gym, but that's about it. The bag holds all my gear, but the opening isn't wide enough to flake your rope into easily after the first climb. As an outside climber I'll stick to my backpack to carry my stuff with the rope wrapped in a tarp. Makes it much easier to have a flaked rope to slide around the gym.

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on August 13, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

My first small cams were Metolious. I bought those because they were USA made. I climbed with a buddy that had this set and I was so impressed I bought myself a set as soon as I got home. These feel so much smother, more solid, and have better range of motion. These are much easier to place in the small cracks they're meant for. Anyone wanna buy some slightly used Metolious cams.... hahaha!

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on August 13, 2017

3 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These would be my favorite trad shoe if they didn't kill my toes. I got them in my street shoe size and after a few pitches (yes I've climbed a lot in these shoes before writing this review) my toes are in extreme pain, to the point where the crux becomes putting weight on my toes on a 5.6. I tried a half size larger and they were way too big. Oh well, I wish they worked for me, because these edge extremely well, are awesome in cracks, and the ankle protection is nice.

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on September 11, 2016

It's pretty awesome.
4 5

I dig this helmet. It's got great coverage, but also beathes well and is light enough I don't think about it being on. The pads are easily removed making washing a simple process. I've hit my head going under fallen trees several times and there's no scratches, so the shell is pretty durable.

My only complaint is that my goggles don't fit too well with the helmet. My goggles are pretty big, so maybe with a smaller set this wouldn't be an issue. (And honestly it's not a huge problem)

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on September 8, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I returned this product before using it
Fit: True to size

These would be awesome for some, but not me. The material is super stretchy and comfortable and it ends perfectly above my knee. The problem for me is that they're not much different than spandex. You can easily tell what side I "dress" on and if you were so inclined you could probably figure out if I were Jewish or Gentile. If I were racing I'd pick these over spandex, but I wanted a more relaxed fit and went with the Ruckus shorts, which I'm stoked on! I'm 6' and 190lbs, and the 34 in both Ace and Ruckus fit me perfect. (I normally wear a 34 pant)

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on July 21, 2015

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love these. I picked up a pack because they're priced well and I needed to save some cash while starting my trad rack. They're light and clip easily. The biners are small, which I prefer, as they take up less space. I use the grey biner for clipping bolts/pro and the blue for my rope. I figure grey is the color of bolts and I have a blue rope so... Anyway these are totally worth it. Light, reasonably priced, etc.. I have since bought two more packs for a total of twelve draws.

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on August 29, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I keep three of these attached to my cordelette to build anchors with on trad routes, or pre-tie a 4' sling with two of these on multi pitch sport routes. I've got about ten of these now and find uses for them all the time, from building top rope anchors, to using my my ATC in guide mode, and tying into a piece of pro when needed. They're fairly light and small enough to have several extra on your harness.

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Francis Whitney

Francis Whitneywrote a review of on August 29, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These are great biners for belay options. They're big, cheap, and strong. I use mine for belaying a second on multi pitch routes with a BD ATC Guide. The size makes it easy to clip into crowded anchor points and keeps my belay device far enough away from everything else to not get in the way.

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