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ElleWhy

ElleWhy

Seattle WA

ElleWhy's Passions

Hiking & Camping
Yoga
Climbing
Skiing

ElleWhy's Bio

Climbing is my happy place, my inspiration, my meditation and my passion. I'm so lucky to have met incredible people within the climbing community and hope to continue to.

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ElleWhy

ElleWhywrote a review of on May 16, 2014

Aggressive, stiff and precise
4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size

The Straps:
- I am a HUGE fan of velcro. I like the easy on and off ability.
- The velcro of the ladies Muira feel extra strong and supportive on my foot.

The Rubber:
- Sticky rubber you can trust. Say, you're climbing in Leavenworth and all you've got to work with is a tiny crystal of a foothold - no big deal. All you gotta do is take that fantastic Muira edge, stick it on that crystal and push down real hard. That toe isn't going anywhere ;)

The Edge:
- My little scenario above pretty much says it all. GREAT edges.

The Heel:
- The heel cup is too big for my heel so I deal with a "squishy heel"
- Note, this has NOT hindered my ability to throw in a good heel hook (I really like heel hooks).

Extras:
- I personally found that my Muira's did not stretch. They pretty much stay true to size, though they did mold to my foot upon break them in
- Yes, breaking them in hurt. On that note, they are a stiff shoe, they are neither "bendy" nor soft
- I experienced a bit of discomfort in my achilles while breaking them in.

Overall, a great shoe for bouldering especially when you need precision.

(3)

 

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ElleWhy

ElleWhywrote a review of on April 30, 2014

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

The Grigri is a great belay device for both novice and experienced belayers.

Good for Projects:
- When I belay for someone working on a tough project, there's no question I'm gearing up with my grigri. I find when my climbing partner takes long rests, it's easier for me to manage them as a belayer with a grigri, while keeping my hand on the brake side.

Lead Belaying:
- It might take a little getting use to feeding the rope out of the grigri when Lead Belaying.
- You'll find that techniques like taking a step or two forward will be even more useful when you're lead belaying with a grigri and can't feed out rope fast enough.
- Be mindful if your lead climber is in panic clipping mode and tugging harder than you can give slack, this can cause the grigri to lock up.

Downsides (not on device but users):
The only downsides I can see are people who become too comfortable with the grigri and use it as an excuse not to see be mindful of safety precautions for their climber. They stop paying attention to their climber. Or worse, they don't take the time to understand how the grigri works.

For example, people who have used a grigri indoors (like at Vertical World) but have no exposure on how to use one that isn't pre-threaded for them! Learning how to put the grigri on the rope properly and connect it to your harness should always be step one!

Just as other reviewers have mentioned, please read the manual and check out all of the great online video resources available.

Stay safe out there everyone!

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ElleWhy

ElleWhywrote a review of on March 1, 2013

Love em' but...
5 5

I have had the Futuras for about 8 months and absolutely love them. They instantly became my favorite shoe and haven't worn my Scarpas since. I can slab in them, over hangs, heel hooks etc. It's amazing how quickly you grow to trust the no edge concept. In fact, that's exactly why I couldn't go back to my Scarpas, I didn't trust them the way I trust my Futuras. The rubber is sticky and fantastic.

So why the "but"?
I certainly don't expect my shoes to last forever when I climb on them 3-4 times a week, both indoors and outdoors, but even before blowing through the rubber the heel got extremely loose. While on a route, I had to pull hard on a heel hook and my shoe popped off >_< I can't decide if I need to down size, and this was a result of the shoe stretching or if they just don't last past 8 months.

Still love them <3

(2)