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DrPaulus

DrPaulus

DrPaulus

DrPauluswrote a review of on March 4, 2015

3 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

This belay device has received some great reviews, and it is not a bad device, but i feel other devices on the market like the Petzl Reverso is better. I feel the ATC Guide is not very smooth at feeding rope, it feels like there is more drag on the rope than similar devices. My device is pretty new and probably not broken in yet, but still, the Reverso 4 is much much smoother out of the box. Also the ATC-G is heavier than many other devices, and it is not any cheaper, and I dont feel it outperforms the Reverso in any way. If you absolutely want a BD ATC, then this one is a good device, but you can get better. I would recommend looking at other devices, and the Reverso4 would be my top pick for a belay device with guide mode at the moment.

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DrPaulus

DrPauluswrote a review of on March 4, 2015

3 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Been using this rope as a gymrope and for general use where it comes in handy, like as a toprope anchor. The rope handles well, but felt a bit stiff in the beginning, and works well with both an ATC and Grigri. The biggest problem with this rope is all the twisting and pigtailing. I have never experienced pigtailing this bad with any other rope i have used. The rope feels and looks very thin for a 10,2 rope, and it seems to be about the same thikness of a Mammut Tusk (9,8). Sheath wear has been good, and the rope has minimal fraying after about 30-40 gym sessions with extensive top roping. If you can get a good deal on this rope, I would recommend it, but otherwise i would recommend a cheaper rope.

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DrPaulus

DrPauluswrote a review of on February 18, 2015

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

This thing is so easy and quick to use. It has never come undone when i have used it, but i have tried to manipulate it in safe conditions, and it can open in some scenarios where a normal screwgate will not, but it will also resist unlocking in other scenarios where a screwgate can get unlocked. I do not completely trust it when belaying, but it should be pretty safe for use with a belay device. The big positive is that it has not frozen on me, even in conditions where both screwgates and magnetrons do freeze. Great for where you would use a normal carabiner, but where a locker would give you an extra safety benefit. Good for winter use as it will resist freezing, and it is probably the easiest locker to use with gloves on. Only negative with this carabiner is that for me it doesnt always replace a screwgate or other locking carabiners, and if a screwgate was rated medium for safety, the slider would probably rate a little lower.

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DrPaulus

DrPauluswrote a review of on February 18, 2015

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These things are super. Mine even came in 10 grams under their claimed weight. For skimo use these can't be beat. Fit is great on both scarpa and dynafit skiboots, but they do not fit my mountaineering boots very well. Great for snow, neve and short sections of ice. I have done some vertical ice and mixed climbing on mine, and they work fine for that, but they will wear fast on rock, and if you are going to climb ice, there are far better crampons for the job, but these will get you up that crux, no problem. These are so light, you don't have to leave them behind when you are unsure if there will be any use for them, and you can feel so much safer when climbing that couloir which turned out to have sections of neve and/or ice.

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