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Danny R.

Danny R.

Danny R.'s Passions

Fly Fishing
Running
Hiking & Camping
Climbing
Skiing

Danny R.'s Bio

I like to climb things my mother says I shouldn't.

Danny R.

Danny R.wrote a review of on June 27, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've used many different brands of crampon and settled on the G12 "Cramp-o-Matic" as my all-around pair o' spikes. These crampons performed well on WI4+ sport laps in Colorado as well as load-carrying up steep frozen snow slopes in the Andes. These crampons are quite stiff and performed well on all footwear I put them on. While some folks prefer to have vertical front points, I find the horizontal spikes can be just as secure (with good footwork) on vertical ice and still perform just as well on less technical terrain. That being said, I would not recommend these crampons for mixed climbing or very overhanging ice lines.

The fit: These crampons were among the easiest to adjust that I have used. The toe bails fit snuggly to both my climbing boots and touring boots. The heels are very secure and I did not feel any wiggle even when navigating short rock sections in them. The adjustment system took a few tries to get right but now I can change the length quickly and easily from my touring boots (Scarpa Maestrale 27.5) to my climbing boots (La Sport Nepal's 44). I'm a huge fan of the front leash loop. No more fiddling around to run your ankle leash under your toe bail in less than ideal conditions (Warning, this metal part is quite sharp and put a hole in a pair of liner gloves but I guess that's part of the joy of alpine climbing).

Also, the bright yellow is a nice feature for trying to find your gear during alpine starts.

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Danny R.

Danny R.wrote a review of on July 29, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Height: 6'
Weight: 170 lbs
Size Purchased: Medium

Truly a great all around jacket. Lightweight, strong, super burly for what it is, and also fashionable. I've thrown everything from errant crampon points to leaky Aquamira and it has always come out on top (minus a spot where the Aquamira bleached the fabric [read: it has character]). Well worth the price tag.

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Danny R.

Danny R.wrote a review of on July 29, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Height: 6'
Weight: 170 lbs
Size Purchased: M

I got a blue one (duh) because I was heading into the hills for a pretty long time. As I was going to the Cascades and was expecting a lot of rain and snow and wetness (PNW stands for Pacific North Wet), I knew I wanted a bomber outer layer. The Beta LT did that and more. Really lightweight, packable, sheds water like no other jacket I've used, takes a lot to wet-out, looks good, feels good, and was pretty burly for such lightweight material. I was out there for a month with no contact with the outside world and this jacket held up to constant rain, snow, sun, rocks, and the errant ice axe spike.

Summary:

Tough
Light
Worth it

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Danny R.

Danny R.wrote a review of on July 29, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've used Neutrino's since I started climbing. Great on quickdraws and also just to attached odds and ends to your harness. I don't have much experience with other wiregates because I like this one so much. I have one attached to my nalgene at all times (hydrate or die!) as well as a bunch that go with me on any climb. From rock to ice to steep snow, this is my go to.

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