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Bryan K.

Bryan K.

Bryan K.

Bryan K.wrote a review of on April 6, 2017

Superb cams
5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

I absolutely love everything DMM makes and the Dragons are no exception. If you're on the fence about getting them instead of Camalots, I think they are totally worth it but it really depends of your preferences for handling and features. Personally, the lack of the thumb loop is no issue for me, as I think the cams are just as easy to handle as Camalots. I have never once fumbled with them in any way when on lead, but if you really love the thumb loop, then stick with BD's as they are awesome too and a bit cheaper.

The feature you get in exchange for the lack of thumb loop is the extendable sling, which I LOVE!!! It extends about as far as a quickdraw does but does a better job at preventing walking because the sling transfers very little rope movement to the cam. This also means you don't have to carry extra draws just to prevent cams from walking, which saves A LOT of weight. Taking 8 draws, averaging 3-4 oz per draw, off of your harness saves 1.5 to 2 pounds! It also gives you an option to prevent carabiners from being loaded over an edge, which you can't do without an extendable sling.

In further comparison to BD's, the color coordination is the same and their range is virtually identical, so they make great doubles to a set of Camalots. However, Dragons use a lower camming angle (13.75 vs. 14.5) so they have better holding power in the outer extremities of their range. Just watch DMM's video of a Dragon picking up a 1 ton boulder in an undercammed placement to see what I mean.

The only issue with them as compared to Camalots is that the sling will wear out faster, but they still last plenty long and there are now plenty of resling services for them here in the States.

Overall, Dragons are killer and are my personal preference for cams. They are supremely smooth to handle and are bomber pieces of protection. DMM really got it right with these cams. I only wish they would make some micro cams now!!!

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Bryan K.

Bryan K.wrote a review of on April 5, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

These are a fantastic addition to any set of stoppers. I primarily place my regular Wallnuts, but these are made for those weird flared cracks and pods where nothing else inspires confidence. Even if you don't come across any placements like that, they double up in the most useful sizes and can be used in nearly all of the same placements as regular Wallnuts. If you place a lot nuts, these are definitely worth it!

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Bryan K.

Bryan K.wrote a review of on April 5, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times

Wallnuts are simply fantastic. If you're thinking about getting BD's, spend the extra $3 and get a set of these. You won't be disappointed. The design is much better due to the extra curvature and grooves. They sit much better in a lot of placements, but if the groove catches on something, you will not be able to remove it by yanking it up. Doing so will only kink the wire, so use the nut tool if you can't get it out after a yank. Also, these are rated to higher forces than the BD's and the wires are stiffer in the larger sizes so they don't flop around. But the best part about these is the instant security and relief you feel from clipping in to one. Nothing compares to a bomber Wallnut.

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