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Arin

Arin

Las vegas

Arin's Passions

Climbing

Arin

Arinwrote a review of on May 6, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Definitely performs well for me. It is sensitive and comfortable. I climb a lot of trad and feel like this shoe is comfortable enough to wear on a long pitch if sized appropriately. If snug, take them off at the belays so your feet are ready to crush the next pitch.

A half size up from your snug/performance fit would allow for some thin socks if you are in to that. Actually, these shoes are sensitive enough that thin socks wouldn't make a huge difference in performance. My street shoe size is 43 (10 US) and I wear a 42 in Skwarma's and the same in Otaki's. I u

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Arin

Arinwrote a review of on April 15, 2017

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 160 lbs
Size Purchased: 10

I wear these and Boreal Ballet Gold's in my street shoe size (10) for all day trad. For me, no shoe is more comfortable. For the colder months, I have a pair of 10.5's that I can comfortably wear socks with. I have also tried a half size down at 9.5 and they just took a bit to break in but were comfortably tight for better edging.

I would have given them five stars if it wasn't for their crappy rubber. I resole every pair I buy.

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Arin

Arinwrote a review of on November 8, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: True to size
Size Purchased: 10

I bought these in my street shoe size because I wanted to use them for the more technical multi-pitch routes. Even without downsizing, this shoe is getting it done! One of my new favorites. I like it so much that I plan to get the lace version soon.

I would go a half size down if I was using this shoe for sport climbing or bouldering.

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Arin

Arinwrote a review of on August 6, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs large
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 160 lbs
Size Purchased: 43

My street shoe size is 10 and I went with the same size (10/43). Too big but wearing socks worked for me. Honestly, I like wearing socks so I didn't bother with an exchange. If you don't like wearing socks you should size down at least half a size or a full size depending on how long you plan to keep your feet in them. Without socks, I would go down a half size. 4 pitches and I wanted to take them off.... thin socks and street shoe size. The Evolv Luchador Lace is a much cheaper shoe and seemed to perform just as well. Food for thought.

All around great shoe but on slab and crack I would go with something less aggressive.

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Arin

Arinwrote a review of on June 7, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 160 lbs
Size Purchased: 11

I wanted a comfortable shoe for multi-pitch that was still somewhat aggressive and comparable to the Muira, Anasazi, and Katana lace. I read the reviews here and decided to give the Luchador a try. I chose the lace version over the Velcro because it just felt better and seemed to edge better than the Velcro. Plus, like everyone else stated "with the laces, you can really dial these in."

My street shoe is a 10 and I settled with an 11 in the Luchador. It is nice to find a shoe that actually works for my feet. I could of gone with a 10.5 but no smaller.

Super comfy, plenty aggressive, great rubber, great edging, and confidence inspiring. Not bad in cracks either. These shoes routinely go on sale. Very reasonably priced.

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Arin

Arinwrote a review of on June 5, 2016

4 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Lovin these cams. Pretty light and the camming action is really nice. I used to use black diamond exclusively but made the switch to these. I wish they made larger sizes so that I wouldn't have carry the black diamond #4/5/6 when needed. The #9 metolius can sometimes be a tiny bit too small for cracks I normally used the black diamond #3 for.

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Arin

Arinwrote a review of on June 1, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Fit: Runs small
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 160 lbs
Size Purchased: 10.5

Crack machine

Tried the Butora Mantra "tight fit" and they were just too narrow. The wide fit is perfect! My street shoe size is 10. I went a half size up for a snug more aggressive fit with a 10.5. A full size up would be perfect for a longer day. Honestly, I couldn't imagine getting my street shoe size or smaller.... would be way too tight for a shoe like this. If the half size up feels snug, keep the laces loose for a few pitches on their first day out. Then tighten up as you go. Tighten the laces up for the crimpy face climbs.

I don't have a wide foot but my my feet seem pretty flat. I have worn normal TC-Pros, Muira, Tenaya Ra and Masai, and never felt I needed a wide version of those shoes. Unless you have a foot that is very narrow, I would get the wide version of the Mantra! The wide version seems more like what I would say is a normal version for normal feet.

I climb Trad multipitch almost exclusively at Red Rock, Las Vegas NV. I used to put my feet through hell wearing shoes that were too tight, hurt my feet in cracks, or weren't stiff enough. Now I have a shoe that is comfortable, stands on dime edges, feels great in cracks, and climbs everything I need it to. Oh yeah, the rubber on these shoes is sticky and seems very comparable to fiveten c4 rubber.

Climbed Epinephrine in Red Rock with these shoes. Epinephrine has a wide variety of climbing to offer... cracks, face climbing and 400+ feet of awesome chimneys. These shoes made for an awesome day on a classic climb. I hope they never stop making these shoes!

If you want a the protection of a mid-top shoe by butora, check out the altura. Not available on backcountry yet... was told it would be soon. I prefer the regular fit altura over the wide and wouldn't go bigger than your street shoe size.
http://butorausa.com/altura-trad-tiger-lilly-regular/

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Arin

Arinwrote a review of on May 26, 2016

4 5

Familiarity: I returned this product before using it
Fit: Runs small
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 160 lbs
Size Purchased: 11

Crack Machine!
The construction of this shoe is top notch. I think this is the shoe I have been looking for. I chose the regular fit version. Not sure why this page calls it the "tight fit" version. I found that it was a bit too narrow for my foot. It probably would of been fine if not for the insole. The sides of my foot bulged over the insoles which irritated me. Other than that, they felt amazing and I really liked the color. I'm returning them and exchanging them for the wide fit version in hopes that the insole is less irritating. Can't wait to climb in these!

The Butora website states this for almost all of their shoes including this one "Size up a half-size from your street shoe size for a tight, aggressive fit, or full-size for a more comfortable fit."

I'm a street shoe size 10 and the size 10.5 Mantra is snug but still comfortable for long multi-pitch. I'm not sure I would be happy going a full size up. I could go a full size up and just keep the laces tight and it would still perform awesome.

**Update**
Received the wide fit mantra and they are perfect. I went a half size up (10.5) from street shoe size for an aggressive fit . I've compared the mid-top wide fit version (Altura) and noticed it was wider than the wide fit mantra. Strange but I guess they are a different shoe all together. Maybe the wide fit altura seems bigger because it doesn't have the insoles that the mantra has. I ended up getting a pair of the regular fit mid-top altura in my street shoe size (10) and they are perfect.

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Arin

Arinwrote a question about on May 17, 2016

Other than the rubber, these shoes are what I am looking for. I want to size them comfortably and from what I understand, to get that comfort, I should go with my street show size which is a 10. What size would be recommended for long trad routes?

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