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Anthony O.

Anthony O.

Anthony O.

Anthony O.wrote a review of on August 19, 2017

5 5

Height: 6' 1"
Weight: 175 lbs
Size Purchased: 46 or 12.5

these shoes are awesome in muddy, soft ground scenarios or scree. as mentioned they arent terribly grippy on dry rock like a climbing shoe but thats not what these shoes are for, get a bushido for that. so the person who reviewed these as an approach shoe doesnt understand what these are made for. that being said, they rule at what they are made for, with lugs like these, these are made for eating wet or loose trails.
NOTE: sizing is waaay off for me. i wear an 11-11.5 is most things or depending on brand 45 or 45.5. approach shoes i sz 44-44.5 even within the la sportiva brand.
i owned a pr of these in a 45, did an approximate 40 mile round trip approach to glacier peak in washington out of the box. they did wonderfully on the way up, but on the down the toe rub on my big toe and pinky was unbearable. depending on width i believe these shoes run a half sz to a full sz small. i repurchased a sz 12.5 or 46 and have fallen in love. an excellent shoe. BURLY but also for me runs more naturally than the 10mm drop would suggest. i also run in the salomon sense series and have run in the bushidos and helios 2.0 and sr. these hold my foot better than bushidos, which i believe is because of the lacing system which wraps the foot very well. i prefer the salomon sense normal and sg for most running, but for full days in mixed terrain, fastpacking, super nasty trails these things tear it up.

a real treat would be the bushido sole with mutant upper...and more predictable sizing.

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Anthony O.

Anthony O.wrote a review of on June 1, 2016

4 5

Familiarity: I returned this product before using it
Fit: Runs small
Height: 6' 1"
Weight: 180 lbs
Size Purchased: small (sz 30 waist)

Excellent build quality. You get what you pay for. However, I did not use for intended purpose because although the waist is true to size, the pant (although stretchy) is tight around the thighs. I already own tights, and did not want to wear these as tights. I wear sz 30 waist products in all brands, mammut, patagonia, arcteryx, black diamond, outdoor research etc, and usually never have any issues, but the tightness on the thighs on these is too much for me. If you dont run or ski you will be fine, otherwise, order up a size even if your waist measurement says otherwise.

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Anthony O.

Anthony O.wrote a review of on April 28, 2016

Nothing better
5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I have used the following cams: DMM Dragon (old and new), Demon, Metolius UL Powercam, TCUs, Mastercams, UL Mastercams, Black Diamond C4, UL C4, C3, X4, Wild Country Helium, Zero, Tech Friends, and new Fixe Aliens. So pretty much every cam on the market. I have subsequently sold most all of my other cams except for Metolius UL Mastercams, one new Fixe Alien, totem basics, Tech Friends and larger sized new DMM Dragons (Totem only makes these up to the 1.8 size, (BD Yellow). So basically only for BD,Blue SZ 3 and up do I use other cams. I do use Metolius UL Mastercams (only other thing close to these) to supplement if I am carrying multiples. These cams are superior in every placement. As shown in another review below, their ultimate strength is not affected by how engaged the cam is. It could be near the limit and have the same strength as a perfect placement. The flexible stems keep the cams from walking. the heads are small and can fit in places only CAMP Tricams could have fit before. Quite literally, sport climbs that were unthinkable to have been done on trad have been protected by totems, because they truly can go into places where no other cams can.

The bottom line is that these are light, will change the way you think about gear placements, are tough, flexible, very high quality and increase safety by affording more potential placements and better placements in existing placements. People who swear by C4s are like people who are doubt the moon landings. Get with the times folks, the future of camming devices is here, and this represents one of the most significant changes in camming tech in decades. This is not some niche aid tool. This is the best cam available. Period.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TeTejh1ebs

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