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Andrew M.

Andrew M.

Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on September 27, 2019

5 5

The new heel cup is fantastic. I was skeptical about trying them out, but they are incredible. The toe box feels pretty similar, if not exactly the same. The heel is stickier and sturdier. I feel like I can set it with more confidence. Plus, the colors are smooth.

For sizing, GO DOWN A HALF SIZE from what you were in the old Testarossa's! If you weren't in the old ones, I size these the same as other aggressive Sportiva shoes (Futura, Skwama both in a 40).

These are a can't miss. They grab and edge so well.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on April 10, 2019

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I'm a big fan of these shoes, but as the saying goes, they seem like a master of none. They do so many things well, but it seems like you can find a better shoe in Sportiva's line up for each function. I do, however, love how comfortable these are.
Sizing: I wear a size 40 and my feet literally won't get into a 39.5, so they're fairly snug. The wide toe box makes them comfortable enough to wear on long pitches or around boulders without having to pop them off after every couple of goes. For reference, I wear a 40 in Solutions and Kataki's (super tight) and a 40.5 in Testarossa's.
Edging: They're okay. This is probably their weakest point, but they're so sensitive that they still do a good job feeling out edges. They do roll on dead vertical. This is where I would pick the Kataki instead.
Jamming: Not a trad shoe, but still sold. The slipper jams well, but it's no TC Pro.
Smearing: I thought these did a great job of smearing, especially on slopey holds. The cut out in the foot allows them to form around slopey holds well.
Caves & Steep climbing: This is where they shine. The toe rubber and really flexible midsole allow them to hook and grab great. On a steep face, Testarossa's and Solutions do a better job due to the possibility of hard edging. In caves, these are hard to beat.

I wear these for just about everything. Hard to go wrong with these as a do-it-all shoe.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on August 27, 2018

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These things grab super well in the steep. The stiff toe box also makes them great for over-vertical edging. They're not as stiff as the Miura VS, but they still do really well on steep edging. Really solid in cave-style roofs where grabbing is key. The heel is really sensitive, too, which I enjoy.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on August 26, 2018

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Used these as a gym shoe for a few months. Other than the sizing issue, I've really enjoyed this shoe. I'm not a slipper guy, but the fit of the toe box and heel sold me (once I finally got the right size). They're really soft and compared to other Evolv rubbers, the rubber on these hasn't started to round yet. I've found the rubber on the Shaman rounds extremely quickly, but these have kept their form well. The toe rubber patch works great and these grab exceptionally on really steep stuff. By no means is this an edging machine, but because they're so sensitive, they still handle thin stuff well.

My only tip for sizing is that I went with a 10.5, which is .5 bigger than my street shoe, and one full size bigger than an aggressively fit Shaman (9.5).

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on June 6, 2018

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I love this harness. It's lightweight, which makes it great for tougher sport climbs and long approaches, but burly enough and has thick enough padding to be ideal for long trad climbs. I climbed in the Sonic for a while, which is basically the same harness. The main difference that I enjoy is the non-adjust leg loops. It's part of what makes this harness lighter and I personally prefer to only have to adjust the waist. The gear loops have plenty of room for a double-rack and more. It would be a mistake to climb in any other harness.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on March 19, 2018

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

All day comfort and performance. They surpass the hype. They're incredible in cracks .5 and up and on any edge. They're not the most sensitive shoe, but they're not marketed as one; with that being said, they still perform pretty well on slab once they're broken in properly.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on October 15, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

I've used these frequently for around a year and they're awesome. For my foot (flat, kinda wide) they're the perfect amount of aggression. I wear a 42 in the Miura lace and a 41.5 in these. The half size down really helps on anything steep. I've had no problems with durability. These have been my go-to for anything steep/any redpoint attempt. They also edge really good and personally, I think they handle slab pretty well. I wouldn't wear them exclusively for cracks, but when I've encountered short crack sections in these, they still handle just fine. These shoes do it all.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on May 3, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

These are incredible. They're lightweight and set in the rock well. For any placement that is smaller than a Camalot .5, I grab these. I thought the lack of the thumb loop might be an issue, but it doesn't effect the trigger action at all for me. Although they have less range than the X4's, I haven't had an issue with that. Great cams at a great price!

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on May 3, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Like most BD gear, this is simple, reliable, effective, and durable. I prefer this on any repel vs. a regular ATC due to the added friction. Works great on multi-pitch and is pretty light weight and compact. Great piece of gear for the price.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on January 3, 2017

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer

Ropes in Petzl's described "sweet spot" (9.8-10.2) all feed well. Smaller than the grigri 1, which is nice in terms of taking up room. Light weight, durable, easy to use and way safer than a regular ATC when used properly. Really worth investing in.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on December 7, 2016

5 5

Familiarity: I've put it through the wringer
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 165 lbs
Size Purchased: 42

The Miura lace up is a great shoe. It smears and edges exceptionally and even handles well on overhangs. Even though it doesn't have Sportiva's P3 platform, it still is fairly aggressive and doesn't kill your feet. I've had these for about 7 months and use them regularly and they show little signs of wear. Unlike some other users, I haven't had issues with the laces but I also don't crack climb much at all. If sized right, these are great for all day wear. Awesome shoe.

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Andrew M.

Andrew M.wrote a review of on November 24, 2016

4 5

Familiarity: I've used it several times
Fit: Runs small
Height: 5' 9"
Weight: 165 lbs
Size Purchased: 9.5

Good shoe, nothing spectacular. They're fairly durable and the rubber grips pretty well. Be careful sizing; I wear a 10.5 in the Shaman, a 9 in the Miura lace up and got a 9.5 in these and they were a little too snug. Still a good shoe though

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