- Item #PTZ0298
- Q & A
IMPECCABLE ICE AND MIXED TOOL
I have used these tools for several seasons now and love them. The new Nomics now have a hammer! Nice work Petzl! These tools climb ice very well. I use tethers to prevent droppage. Leashless is the way to free yourself and to be way more efficient. They also have added a spike at the bottom of the tool for lower angle walking and topping out on climbs. Again, nice work Petzl! When mixed climbing the Nomics excel...whether matching on one tool or gripping up high, these tools love every minute of it and when you reach the ice you are NOT bumming from the "bounce you the fuck out of the ice placement you just made because the tools were engineered solely for rock climbing," which some other mixed tools give. Instead, you are laughing your way to the top of the climb...
Bottom line: A fantastic ice and mixed climbing tool that I take into the mountains with confidence.
Nomics are sweet!
The previous review states, "The new Nomic is different. I have not compared the new and old side by side, but it seems that the main difference is in weight the new is lighter and the swing feels slightly different."
I have compared and climbed with both side by side. Actually there is no difference between the old and new tools of what ever generation. *There an 8 g weight change* between the 1 and 2nd gen PICKS. The cut out on the pick makes the new pick 8g lighter. The newest 3rd gen tools with a steel insert in the pommel are heavier yet. BUT NO ONE is going to know the difference climbing on one or the other Nomic tools side by side. The ability to add a hammer can be had on the old with CT hammers or the new Petzl hammer with a little mod and labor. Only the serrated pommel makes them different and that is a subtle change.
For a detailed review of how different the two gen of Nomics really are more here:
I climbed all 2010-11 season with the recalled tools and did not have any problems, except that the screw on griprest was kind of loose and I had to tighten it. In any case, the griprest problem should be fixed in the fall 2011 model. I really liked the older Nomic (see BD Fusion for a review comparing Fusion with Nomic). The new Nomic is different. I have not compared the new and old side by side, but it seems that the main difference is in weight the new is lighter and the swing feels slightly different. Nomics are my favorite tools because of 1) extremely comfortable grip (I have weak forearms and I love the grip), 2) natural and well balanced swing and 3) excellent sticks that are surprisingly easy to remove. The new Ice Pick is superb. It is really tough and withstands brutal bouncing against granite on thin routes with minimal bend of the tip. With gentle application, it may well stay sharp all season long. I found the spike at the end of Nomics handle fairly feeble. Well, better than nothing on the older model and I do not feel it is a problem for pure ice climbing. Overall, the new Nomics are excellent tools and may be the most versatile steep ice/mixed tools, which still can perform well on alpine routes. I actually, practiced self-arrest with Nomics and found that it was not too much different than with a more classic mountaineering axe (BD Venom).
There is a recall in most early Nomic and Ergo models (Fall 2010), check the petzl site for details.
I do pretty easy clasic mountianeering...
I do pretty easy clasic mountianeering routs and is looking to get more technical this winter and up coming summer. could this or the Petzl Quark replace a straight shaft ice axe?
I would definitely recommend trying out Quarks (check out the excellent reviews on this site). I have practiced self-arrest with Nomics and it works OK. However, Quarks are more all around tool and will give you flexibility to advance to steeper stuff and get more technical while still being very useful for classic mountaineering.