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Metolius Ultralight Master Cam

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sale from $44.96 Original price:$64.95

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  • Gray, #00
    sale $44.96
  • Purple, #0
    sale $44.96
  • Blue, #1
    sale $44.96
  • Yellow, #2
    sale $44.96
  • Orange, #3
    sale $44.96
  • Red, #4
    sale $44.96
  • Black, #5
    sale $44.96
  • Green, #6
    sale $44.96
  • Light Blue, #7
    sale $48.71
  • Light Purple, #8
    sale $48.71

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Ultralight Master Cam

New to Metolius, the Ultralight Master Cam takes the weight off alpinists and trad climbers. These cams are 40% lighter than most cams, and their lobes use stops for extra security in cracks. The lobes also have Range Finders with green-to-red dots along the sides that assist your placements. Color-coded by size, the Ultralight Master Cam is easy to find on your rack so you can plug and send. Metolius made it easy for you to replace the Monster Sling after a few seasons.

  • Master-class camming device from Metolius for trad and alpinism
  • CNC-machined cam lobes are 40% lighter than the original Master
  • Range Finder assists with finding solid placements
  • Color-coded trigger, thumb, and webbing ease identification
  • Monster Sling keeps weight at a minimum
  • Item #MET001X

Material
[sling] UHMWPE Monster
Placement Range
[00] 0.34 - 0.47in, [0] 0.39 - 0.59in, [1] 0.49 - 0.71in, [2] 0.62 - 0.89in, [3] 0.74 - 1.07in, [4] 0.93 - 1.32in, [5] 1.01 - 1.56in, [6] 1.28 - 1.89in, [7] 1.57 - 2.26in, [8] 1.91 - 2.81in
Strength
[00, 0] 5kN, [1] 8kN, [2-8] 10kN
Cam Lobes
4
Axle
single
Stem
single
Includes
Monster Sling webbing
Claimed Weight
[00] 1.6oz, [0] 1.6oz, [1] 1.8oz, [2] 1.9oz, [3] 2.3oz, [4] 2.6oz, [5] 3oz, [6] 3.3oz, [7] 3.9oz, [8] 4.5oz
Recommended Use
climbing
Manufacturer Warranty
1 year

Tech Specs

What do you think about this product?

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>Rating: 5

First impression

Out of the box. Amazing action, super light(obviously) sturdy, confidence inspiring. Sold the doubles in my C4 rack and purchased 00-6 recently and can't wait to get on some more finger cracks with better gear then I was using. I'll update in a few weeks when they get some good use.

>Rating: 5

What you get before totems

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer
Fit:
Runs small
Size Bought
00-8

Originally wanted tcus when I started working on cams. A few wise old climbers told me you'll save money in the long run if you just get Totems, master cams, skip the hexes, and run from tcus. I listened on the hexes ( hint: tricams ) and tcus, then penny pinched a mixed rack of c4's / master cams I gradually got on sale. Since then used or owned most of the newer cams, except dragons. they don't stick / give confidence like master cams or totems. Only cams I've found to stick better are totems black to orange and, personal preference only, dragonflies smaller 0.0 - 0.2 range. A great primary or double rack. yellow master cam kinda = yellow totem = pink tricam

>Rating: 5

Love the smaller sizes

Familiarity:
I've used it several times
Size Bought
00

I have the 00,0,1 sizes and I love how solid they feel when you place them. I took my first trad whipper on the 1 after the nut above popped out. My confidence in them skyrocketed!!

>Rating: 5

Don't Buy a rack twice

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I use these guys from yellow #2 down to grey #00. They're awesome and the narrow head width allows them to slip into weird spots a C4 wouldn't. If I could buy a rack again I'd definitely go with these guys. They compliment an existing rack really well, fitting in between X4 and C4 size range. The size range dots on the side of the lobes don't do much, more often than not leaving the cam super over cammed and would most likely get it stuck. Seek qualified instruction if you don't know how to place a cam.

I

Thanks for sharing! Where did you find this image btw? It's an awesome resource!

>Rating: 4

My favorites

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

Love the range finder. When I started out, it really helped me to place them well and have confidence in placements. Just wish they had bigger cams. I would give a 4.5 star if I could.

>Rating: 4

Great to have a slight size difference

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I find that these cams are great as they have a slight difference in size which makes them a versatile tool for the rack. I love the smaller sizes, and I like the larger sizes for fitting where other cams don't.

>Rating: 5

Love these things

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

Great addition to the rack. Having sizes 1-5 to add to the BD c4 rack is great. They are really light weight, and I love that they bend.

>Rating: 4

Not a bad option for the smaller sizes

Familiarity:
I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I'm not totally sold on these for the larger sizes, but 5 and lower are pretty great! I feel they're pretty bomber and the only reason I'm not really sold on the larger sizes is because they are a bit top heavy and the flexible stem means that when you're trying to place, the lobes don't quite go in the direction you want them to all the time when you're pulling the lever to cam them. Not a big deal in the grand scheme of things, but I noticed it so I couldn't un-notice it. These are pretty great to round out your rack though and add some variety to those BDs everyone has and loves! Also less people have them so you're less likely to find your gear lost to other people's stashes when your racks get mixed.

>Rating: 5

Love them!

My rack consists of just BD cams and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. The Metolius cams are awesome. They are light, easy to place, have great trigger action and over all feel solid. Getting the smaller ones of these are great substitute for saving money if you do not want to buy BD x4s, these are cheaper but just as nice! These will make your hips and harness happy being nice and light!!

>Rating: 5

Go-to small cam

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

C4s are the way to go for 0.3 and larger, but for tiny parallel cracks, the silver/purple/blue master cams are the way to go. Light, easy to place, and well made. And they're usually $30 cheaper than the X4s, even though they're better! Disclaimer: I haven't fallen on mine yet. But I would!

>Rating: 5

Verity is the key to life.

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

The Metolious Ultra cams are a must. It is common to have a rack with doubles of all Black Diamond Camalots. However, I know like to climb with at least a few Metolius Ultralights on one side of my harness instead of doubles in the .4-.75 range( it all depends on the route). The reason is that the sizes are in between the BD sizes so you have a better chance at having the right piece for the crack. Having a variety of gear on your harness is a bit overwhelming at first but I find it the best method for onsite climbing. If you were to buy just one of these I would say grab the Orange #3 for in between .5 and .75 BD sizes.

>Rating: 5

Amazing cam!

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

These are some seriously awesome single axle cams! They feel amazing in granite. I think I like the trigger action on these better then most BD cams, its incredibility smooth. If you mix these with BD cams on your rack, you will have a nice range of sizes!

>Rating: 5

Bomber

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I prefer small mastercams for anything smaller than a BD #.5. I don't miss the thumb loop at all.

Thanks for the review, Pete!

May I ask why you don't like the thumb loop?

>Rating: 5

Light and affordable

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

These are cheaper than BD C4s and lighter than BD Ultralight C4s. I don't understand why they aren't more popular!

>Rating: 5

Awesome!

Familiarity:
I've used it once or twice and have initial impressions

I tried out the smaller sizes of these cams and they felt really nice. First, they are noticeably very light, so you hardly notice them on your harness. They build quality and feel also seems extremely good. They have placed really nicely in tight placements and don't seem to walk at all. Awesome!

>Rating: 5

An Incredible Small Cam

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

Sizes I have: I have owned a set of these cams, from 00 – 3 for a little over two years. Before purchasing these I went to one of my local shops and compared these cams to the BD Camalots, I noticed that the heads were wobbly when above ~5/6 and other cams have an edge. Lack of Thumb Loop: The lack of a thumb loop has not been a significant concern. I have used this cam from the Red River Gorge to Yosemite in both free and aid climbing scenarios and have had no complaints. If you are doing a route with a lot of harder aid, say one of El Caps aid heavy routes like the Zodiac, this could be more of a concern. As is, the sling is tiny, and the addition of a thumb loop would only add an extra inch or two of reach. If you are going to be tackling these sort of routes, you would be better off considering Totem cams as they are far superior in aid climbing scenarios and questionable placements. The only catch is finding them in stock (especially the elusive black Totem) and the premium price tag they fetch. Placements and Walking: The cams have springs that are much stronger than other cams on the market but is by no means challenging to pull back and place. This tight spring is terrific when it comes to placing these smaller cams. When you place these cams, they almost always stay in the same location that you placed it. Walking with these cams is minimal even when one doesn’t extend their placement. If the route you are climbing wonders a lot, it would be advantageous to extend your placements due to the shortness of the sling. These cams may be small, but they hold incredibly well. I have created hanging belays and hauled off of them on El Cap and have even taken 35-foot lobs onto the #1 without it ripping out of horizontal placements. The times when these cams have pulled has always been the result of questionable placements that only a totem would provide a better placement. Weight: It is hard to beat the weight of these cams; they are incredibly light. Whether you want to use these cams for light alpine routes or as a nice light double or even triple set for your rack, you cannot go wrong. I have found that putting an extra set from 00 – 3 on my gear loops is very minimal and provides additional peace of mind when you are not sure what protection may lay ahead. They also take up minimal space on the gear loop. Overall: I am pleased with the performance of these cams in the smaller sizes. They have held countless falls in splitter cracks, dihedrals, and questionable horizontal placements. The tighter spring keeps the cam from walking out of placement. A short sling makes it acceptable for moderate aid even without a thumb loop. At the cost, especially while on sale, they cannot be beaten for the smaller sizes. When it comes to cams in the larger range (larger than the 5 or 6 master cam), Black Diamond cams win out.

Awesome review, thanks!

>Rating: 5

A great small cam option

Familiarity:
I've put it through the wringer

I used a rack of 0-4 on my recent climb of Little Cottonwood Canyon's The Coffin, where they were an essential piece. Im not the most comfortable on thin and shallow cracks, and the start of the coffin is essentially all that. I popped in a few UL Master cams to protect the first 30 feet until I got to the wider crack, and I felt very safe making those moves! The flexible stem and single axle make design these a great marginal cam. These are a must have for thin and hard to protect climbs

>Rating: 5

Long Live the Black Metolious!

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I was introduced to this cam on my first trip to Indian creek. I never really thought about needing that one specific cam.. but alas, there are many climbs where I feel that this cam fits just perfectly where you need it. It has a super quick action and it feels confidence inspiring!

>Rating:

Love the master cams!

>Rating: 5

Confidence Inspiring

Familiarity:
I've used it several times

I recently picked these cams up to fill out my rack for climbing in and around the Salt Lake Valley. So far I am loving having these cams on my rack. I have used them on several other occasions when climbing with my friends gear but now that I have them I'm not sure I could live without them. I climb with the 00-4 and find that compared to my X4's I always get a better more confidence inspiring placement that grabs the rock better than the X4's otherwise would have. I also like the slightly stiffer stem for vertical crack placements. But I do tend to prefer my X4's for horizontals since the stem has a wider range of motion. I have also heard a lot of people having difficulty placing these guys without the thumb loop but so far I haven't really noticed much of a difference. I still find myself going through the same motion I otherwise would have with a X4, C4, Friend or Dragon. The dot range on the cam is also really helpful for those who cannot readily identify a good placement and is a good quick reminder you are doing things right for the experienced. Pair these guys with the FS Mini carabiners and you have a UL set up that rivals anything else out on the market. (Now I just want to try out the Super Cams!)

I
>Rating:

Is the #7 the same size as the wild country helium #3.5? I can't find a 3.5 helium anywhere so I'm looking to complete my doubles rack with something of a similar range

Trevor, its close but, not exactly the same. So the #7 Metolius is 1.57 - 2.26 in, and the 3.5 Friend is 2.02 - 3.25 in. Would be closer to get a BD C4 Camalot #2 which is 1.46 - 2.55in.

>Rating:

The purple cam shown in the picture as a #8 light purple cam doesn't seem to be the right picture. Shouldn't the #8 be the largest of this set not a small piece like the one shown?

Hi Seth, You're correct! The picture for the #8 is actually a regular Mastercam #0. We'll get that fixed. Ben brabinowitz@backcountry.com 801-746-7564